Performance Valve?
 

hey there,
Im lookin to upgrade my valves, springs etc. i am mechanicly inclined, only not with performance parts. My valves leak, i figured since the seals need replaced, i may as well upgrade..I dont know know exactly what to look for, as in brand sizes etc... can anytbody lead me in to the right direction..thank you
cody
1987 turbo

Brian crower makes good valves, springs and cams check out the site.

http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Toyo...Internals.html

thanks, i will look into that for sure.....

Remember to take the head to the shop

ya, i was looking at the valves and they are oversized. thank you alot.
another question, my supra smokes on a cold start, a big cloud of white smoke just for like 1 minute if that. and also everytime I shift under i pressure. does this sound like valve seals?

ferrea valves are really good.

if you want a cheap, effective solution, just disassemble the head (you will need a valve spring compressor, large C-clamp type.) label all the valves, springs, retainers, lifter buckets, shims and keepers in ziplock bags, then polish the valves and lap them yourself (several online tutorials for this, just check to make sure the valves dont have excessive play in the valve guides.)

i saved a good 300 bux doing my own, and all my valves hold 20+inches of vacuum.

u can also do a valve spring upgrade by getting the BBC inner springs from comp cams and install them instead of stock ones. more seat pressure and its about 60 bux for 24 of them (they are sold in sets of 12, hm, wonder why....?)

i have a buddy with some ferrea valves in his 7m head, and they look titties tho.

After doing ANY valve work check the lifter clearances. Even rotating an old, worn in bucket can cause a decent shift. It's really something you should just do anyway while everything is off.

yes true, i forgot to mention that. checked all mine, and amazingly, nothing was out....ended up doing it 3 times just to be sure, but everything was pretty much dead center, a couple on the loose side, but still in spec.

when you check the clearances, make sure to rotate the cams a few times, just to get any kind of play out.

thanx alot everybody, all this info is a big help...
im looking at the brian crower valves and also cams depending on my budget.
another question, I want to put an HKS head gasket, any suggestions on how far I should deck the Head? and how thick of a gasket?
thank you all again. i will post some pics once my phone is working again

take the block to a reputable shop (preferably one that is familiar with these motors) and have them check everything on the block (inspect, clean, magnaflux, then advise to you their machining recommendations). the less you have to mill the block the better. u mostly just want to smoothest surface for the hks gasket. lapping the surface of the block is the best way to get it smoothest, but its also time consuming and labor intensive. some machine shops will do this, like i said tho, its spendy.

i opted out of lapping the block/head. ended up using a product called gasqasinch. we will see how it works, but ive got faith. when i pulled the head off the other day, lets just say it was a PITA with the gasqasinch on there.

i got the 1.2mm gasket, but when the machine shop tells you how much needs to be taken off the block and head, you can take that number and subtract it from the original height and buy the gasket accordingly. i just opted to get adjustable cam gears and only worry about gasket price. 400+ for a gasket was a lil ridiculous in my book....

In most builds you don't want to raise the compression ratio so you'll want one that's 1.37mm + whatever they cut from the block + whatever they cut from the head. You don't want them to take any more material off the block than necessary

Note that while metal head gaskets are VERY finicky about the deck surface and smoothness the HKS' Stopper HG (the one I suspect you're looking at) is the pain in the ass. I think it requires an RA finer than 18 or 15.... a lot of older shops can't produce this and if it's rougher than that it WILL blow.

Unless you're reusing a given MHG you want to read the MSDS of ANY chemical before you apply it to your block, head or HG.... Most gasket dressings contain chemicals which will cause the sealant coating which most MHGs already come with to crack, ripple, bluster, peel, or just turn to an easy to blow out liquid goop..... B A D. I'm a Hylomar fan myself; I know some of their products are safe for Viton and similar coatings but a lot of their products aren't be careful if you choose to add a sealer, it's a stupid reason to have to rebuild. I advise against it unless you have a really good reason for it... As I said, most MHGs already have a sealant on them anyway.

thanx again, for everything, I think i am goin to look for a nother engine and just strip it and build it slowly, so i can still drive mine during the process.
there is alot of N/A out here with good motors, last time I was on here about2yrs ago with my 7mge, somebody told me that there is no big difference between the engines besides the tubo set up? is this true>?

ill say this about the stuff i got on my gasket: its been on there for almost two month, and when i pulled it off, no problems with the gasket. it never truly dries, which i thought was interesting. its a pretty interesting product.

I know what gasket dressing it. I also know what chemicals are used in various ones out there. A lot of the dressings have solvents or bases which aren't compatible with one or more of the chemicals they're going to be in frequent contact with. There are a lot of good dressings which don't ever vulcanize, that's nothing new; Hylomar started in the late 1800's. Their famous "Hylomar Blue" was initially developed with Rolls Royce for use in jet turbines.... Just because it's an awesome product which does a great job at something doesn't mean it's going to save a 7M from its owner.

As for using dressing in place of proper block preparation as recommended by the manufacturer of the MHG.... Anyone's free to try it. I don't care what you do to your car, just know what you may be setting yourself up for and don't bluntly recommend that novices follow your lead. They're going to screw up enough stuff on their own as it is. (not that you were directly suggesting this course of action, just venting)

Ideally, if you're going to use your own coating on a MLS you should disassemble it (drill the rivets and separate the layers.... You can't disassemble all types of MLS HG), strip any coating it has already in place, apply your dressing to each layer and then reassemble the gasket. This is only something you really would bother with if you're reusing a gasket or you're certain you know better than the HG manufacturer (warranties be damned).



Codster, the differences have been listed here MANY times. Please do some of you own research and if you have questions thereafter ask. I don't mind repeating myself if it's something difficult to find or not common but I can't imagine you'd have any trouble finding posts detailing the differences in just a couple minutes (I know I've posted in more than a few such threads here). At any rate the GTE has a different intake cam, thermostat neck and housing, drilled oil drain and feed ports for the turbo with tapped holes for the flange, oil squirters, low C/R pistons, higher pressure oil pump, higher capacity fuel pump, oil cooler,the block is driller for TWO knock sensors in different locations than the GE's one, larger mechanical fan and an auxiliary electrical fan in front of the radiator, and pretty much a completely different electrical setup including: CPS instead of distributor, paired coil packs vs the GE's single coil, larger injectors, different type of air flow meter.... blah, blah, blah.