ISsues with the Supras

[Busted Knuckles]

Window Trim: If you want to go back to black on the trim, it can be painted. I just did it on my MK-III when I replaced the rear glass.

Carefully remove the trim. The top plate with the window squirter just pops off the clips. The side pieces are held at the top by a corner piece with an anchor screw, along the sides by clamping a side rail, and slid into the bottom corner piece. The bottom trim is studded through the deck lid, and the 8mm nuts are under the inside trim panel. Be very careful with the side pieces as they can be very hard to remove without bending them.

Sand them down with a semi-fine sandpaper, like 150 to 200 grit. Clean them off good, then hit them with several coats of Krylon Ultra-Flat black. I hit mine with 8 coats.

Fog lights: there is a relay under the dash that controls the fog lights. Before changing out the switch, test it with an ohmmeter. The relay is easier and cheaper to replace with a new one if that is the problem. The switch is soft, and mine doesn't give an audible 'click' either. It does stay in the 'on' position, though.

Paint: Grandavi covered that pretty good. The side molding is held by clips and studs. To remove it for a showroom finish is a big task, since some of these studs are in hard to reach areas. I personally hate the painted over molding, it speaks laziness to even taping things off. Chrome finish? That will be very expensive to get a non-metal surface chromed. I'm sure it is possible, but very pricey. Especially with the Supra's wide molding and wrap-around length.

Paint Color: Olive Drab? Seriously? You can handle that with a box of rattle cans!

[86.5nasupra]

Paint Color: Olive Drab? Seriously? You can handle that with a box of rattle cans![/QUOTE]

Amen just got done doin some body work to mine a month back went to walmart got 15 cans of satin italian olive 6 of flat black did the hood,trunklid, door handles where the trim once went on the door and behind it flat black and the rest satin italian olive came out pretty sick

[cre]

Guys... c'mon. I know there are very few Supra owners who may have seen them intact and functional but trust me on this: The window trim IS A SEAL. Go buy one of the parts which is still available new and check it out. I've posted about this a few times in the past two weeks (probably all in response to the same person's posts... :P ) including details on how to more successfully reuse your old trim.

Grandavi, it's called "scavenging" not "back pressure". The velocity of the exiting air creates a vacuum which helps more effectively evacuate exhaust gases from the combustion chamber. For this to work properly the pipe mustn't be too large in diameter at any point. Removing turbulence and oscillations in the air flow help a great deal (accomplished with well designed collectors, as few bends as possible and a GOOD resonator); And the temperature of the exhaust charge must be kept from dropping significantly as it travels through the system lest it slow, increase in density and create a positive pressure obstruction. Ideally, you want gradually increasing pipe diameter (ie: 2.25" to 2.5" to 2.75" to a 3" exit). This applies to all engine setups except that with a turbocharged setup there is little to no scavenging to speak of between the turbo and engine while you are boosting.... here there is indeed back pressure. The larger the pipe the larger the cold charge of dense air you have to push out of the way to get things moving again... But you have a larger buffer for sudden increases in volume as you get with a turbo. Turbocharged setups aren't the exception to the rule but they bring other significant factors with them which minimize the significance of other certain factors.

I hope this makes sense.... half asleep here...

[spainobain1234]

Originally Posted by cre

Guys... c'mon. I know there are very few Supra owners who may have seen them intact and functional but trust me on this: The window trim IS A SEAL. Go buy one of the parts which is still available new and check it out. I've posted about this a few times in the past two weeks (probably all in response to the same person's posts... :P ) including details on how to more successfully reuse your old trim.

Grandavi, it's called "scavenging" not "back pressure". The velocity of the exiting air creates a vacuum which helps more effectively evacuate exhaust gases from the combustion chamber. For this to work properly the pipe mustn't be too large in diameter at any point. Removing turbulence and oscillations in the air flow help a great deal (accomplished with well designed collectors, as few bends as possible and a GOOD resonator); And the temperature of the exhaust charge must be kept from dropping significantly as it travels through the system lest it slow, increase in density and create a positive pressure obstruction. Ideally, you want gradually increasing pipe diameter (ie: 2.25" to 2.5" to 2.75" to a 3" exit). This applies to all engine setups except that with a turbocharged setup there is little to no scavenging to speak of between the turbo and engine while you are boosting.... here there is indeed back pressure. The larger the pipe the larger the cold charge of dense air you have to push out of the way to get things moving again... But you have a larger buffer for sudden increases in volume as you get with a turbo. Turbocharged setups aren't the exception to the rule but they bring other significant factors with them which minimize the significance of other certain factors.

I hope this makes sense.... half asleep here...

Mybe I am better off purchasing the brand new window trim, or having a fabrication done by a custom auto glass shop local in the area. Maybe an AutoGlass shop will have a thick, reliable rubber that will strectch around the windows with a decent fitment! That would be great. I will keep you updated. It is so stupid that Toyota put metal under the rubber trim , because it obviously became a peeling nasty result.

Also I am completely confused about the exhaust system. I have a 3 inch downpipe from the turbo going under the car, and then a 2.5" flowmaster straight pipe and only one muffler hooked to the the end of the flowmaster pipe. Will this hurt my engine?? or Turbo? I can smell the fumes in the car hahaha only when I stomp on it. Man this baby has got power!

[cre]

Originally Posted by spainobain1234

Also I am completely confused about the exhaust system. I have a 3 inch downpipe from the turbo going under the car, and then a 2.5" flowmaster straight pipe and only one muffler hooked to the the end of the flowmaster pipe. Will this hurt my engine?? or Turbo? I can smell the fumes in the car hahaha only when I stomp on it. Man this baby has got power!

No, it's not going to hurt anything... it's not ideal (it's a bottleneck) but it's not going to damage anything.

It's not the cause of you running too rich either, they're just tuned that way from the factory and if you're missing your cat it'll be 10x worse.

[spainobain1234]

Originally Posted by cre

Guys... c'mon. I know there are very few Supra owners who may have seen them intact and functional but trust me on this: The window trim IS A SEAL. Go buy one of the parts which is still available new and check it out. I've posted about this a few times in the past two weeks (probably all in response to the same person's posts... :P ) including details on how to more successfully reuse your old trim.

Grandavi, it's called "scavenging" not "back pressure". The velocity of the exiting air creates a vacuum which helps more effectively evacuate exhaust gases from the combustion chamber. For this to work properly the pipe mustn't be too large in diameter at any point. Removing turbulence and oscillations in the air flow help a great deal (accomplished with well designed collectors, as few bends as possible and a GOOD resonator); And the temperature of the exhaust charge must be kept from dropping significantly as it travels through the system lest it slow, increase in density and create a positive pressure obstruction. Ideally, you want gradually increasing pipe diameter (ie: 2.25" to 2.5" to 2.75" to a 3" exit). This applies to all engine setups except that with a turbocharged setup there is little to no scavenging to speak of between the turbo and engine while you are boosting.... here there is indeed back pressure. The larger the pipe the larger the cold charge of dense air you have to push out of the way to get things moving again... But you have a larger buffer for sudden increases in volume as you get with a turbo. Turbocharged setups aren't the exception to the rule but they bring other significant factors with them which minimize the significance of other certain factors.

I hope this makes sense.... half asleep here...

HAhahah Sleep Me TOO! upside down like a Possum Bat. thanks for the GREAT Responses Y'aLL! HAppy Halloween!!

[spainobain1234]

Originally Posted by 86.5nasupra

Paint Color: Olive Drab? Seriously? You can handle that with a box of rattle cans!

Amen just got done doin some body work to mine a month back went to walmart got 15 cans of satin italian olive 6 of flat black did the hood,trunklid, door handles where the trim once went on the door and behind it flat black and the rest satin italian olive came out pretty sick[/QUOTE]



About the Paint , Could you upload some pictures of the Olive Green Paint Job? I really want to know how good this Looks! I still have stock rims but I am going DEEP DISH sports max racing rims. 18 x 8.5 front +35 offset and 18x 9.5 rear +35 offset ... $400 ! cheap if you ask me. Ya Please upload as many pictures of the FLAT olive green paint job Its gonna look AWEsOme. I just prepped my new garage so that I have the room to paint the SUPRA! Lol EXcited