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Old 08-05-2011, 02:39 PM   #1
Meekmeek
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I was just looking and I couldn't find my sensor. I don't think it has one. But I did find my oil leak on my turbo, and that there's a plate missing on my dowpipe that goes to my cat.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:52 PM   #2
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That's your wastegate, you can bolt a turndown pipe there if you can fit one.
That oil leak is not good, spray it down with some brake parts cleaner to clean it up. Next time you run the engine, check to see where the "fresh" oil is coming out of.
The lack of an o2 sensor might be whats causing it to stall. Is it using the stock computer? It should be mounted above the glovebox under the dash.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:13 PM   #3
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I found it. Its broke and one wire wasn't connected on it. I connected them and I'm waiting on it warm up. The check engine is is out but when I was letting it warm it came back on. I think it is a stock Ecu. It is fresh oil coming out of it but it only comes out when I give it gas.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:20 PM   #4
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Any ideas on the turbo fix ir is it just done?
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:11 PM   #5
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Depends on what's leaking on the turbo. If it's coming from one of the fittings or flanges, you can fix it. If its coming from between the bearing housing and the compressor housing then it's time for a rebuild.
The computer will have identification labels if it is a toyota one. Is it idling with the O2 sensor hooked up now? Check codes again, it may have a different code now.
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Old 08-05-2011, 05:22 PM   #6
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No codes yet. It was driving fine for a min but the toggle switch for the power went. I'm about to head to advanced to to grab one. Wish me luck.
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:46 PM   #7
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In your last photos:

1) Fuel resistor pack relay connector. This is normally run to a relay which switches the fuel pump power to a resistor pack to help lower fuel pressure at low loads. It's commonly deleted with aftermarket pumps although this requisite has been largely disproved.

2) and 4) A pre89 ECU hacked into an '89+ chassis?

3) The HAC sensor connector. The HAC sensor is used by the ECU to account for changes in altitude. If you live near sea-level and don't drive in different elevations you may bypass it with a couple resistors, otherwise pick one up (used or new). In '89+ ECUs it is internal. See the diagram linked to below for the HAC bypass resistor values (Just a box on the side):
http://www.fadingworld.com/CRE/Autom...087-88-r21.jpg

That is one terrifying wiring job and the mods appear to be half-assed at best... I wouldn't have bought it for anything more than parts.
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:40 PM   #8
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Would you say it'd be best just to sell it? Or would you say its a pricey fix if I do the labor?
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Old 08-07-2011, 05:33 PM   #9
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That's up to you. If you like the car, then keep it and fix it. If you're not too into the supra, sell it before anything else breaks. Remember, it's a "highly sophisticated" 20+ year old car and yours has been obviously butchered by someone. It will take time, research and money to build a nice mk3 supra, probably more than you'll wish to spend. It will be pricey no matter who does the work, in the end you get more for your money doing the work yourself. If the body and interior are nice, I would fix it up for sure.
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