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Old 06-25-2011, 06:05 PM   #11
Conga1991
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Didn't mean to put idle. what I was trying to say is, When I try turning my engine over I have to put my foot on the gas so it will actually get up to higher rpms but even then I have to pump it. It seems like there are a couple cylinders that aren't sparking either.

When I pulled the spark plugs they were extremely black, so I tried cleaning them with carb cleaner and use sand paper to scrape most of it off, that's what a mechanic told me to do, I put them back in and still did the same thing and then they didnt want to spark at all. The engine just cranks over.
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Old 06-25-2011, 06:46 PM   #12
Nathaninwa
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Look at the coolant temp first....either get the ohms it should be at a given temp and test, or see about getting a used one for testing. On a cold motor you dont even need to isntall the sensor, just unplug yours and plug the other one in. It will be ambient, very close to water at that point. See how it starts. Wifes legend was like this...nothing but crank, need starting fluid to get going. Bought the 10 dollar sensor and did just that, fired right up, so I installed it.
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:24 PM   #13
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Actually you should pull the sensor and use a pot of water on the stove with a tiny bit of coolant or salt (to increase the boiling point) and test through the full range. NTC and PTC based sensors can shift over time and may appear fine at one temp but get further off very quickly as the temp changes. Use a GOOD thermometer to monitor the water temp.

The same thing goes for measuring rheostats (TPS and the VAFM on the GE)... should be a smooth transition, this is easiest to measure with voltage supplied though and not by the OHM readings. Well, same thing as in shifted values, not boiling them in water.
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