TPS adjustments, unclear on voltage readings.

Sonyps307 · 06-22-2011, 02:50 AM

I seen a guy use a TB from a newer mustang one of the daul butterfly ones and modded the n/a Y piece to fit it.

Nathaninwa · 06-22-2011, 03:35 AM

I think I saw that right up....throttle linkage would be tricky as off idle would be a bit touchy, and that much TB I think is to much, and could be that 3/4 throttle is acutally WOT since the motor cant really suck any more!

87hilux7mge · 06-22-2011, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonyps307

I seen a guy use a TB from a newer mustang one of the daul butterfly ones and modded the n/a Y piece to fit it.

was that ever finished? i saw the beginning thread several months ago, but no update to show the finished product.

cre · 06-23-2011, 01:38 AM

Bigger throttle body on an N/A will most likely result in a more sluggish throttle response. Air velocity is higher the narrower the aperture but at a lower volume (You get the air in there faster and it's cooler). Air is charge is denser but also slower with a larger aperture... it's also in there sitting over the engine longer. Tune your intake for your needs. Physics my man, physics... and while we're on that subject, go ahead and put back the Helmholtz resonator that I'm sure you're also missing.

Nathaninwa · 06-23-2011, 01:47 AM

I have never really looked into the resonator...I was told long ago that it quieted the stock intake piping down for quiet operation. Im actually running 3 inch IC piping over to the AFM in the fender/core support junction.

So on the subeject, what about the pace setter headers I see on Ebay, 3-1, 2-1 setup. My stock 5mge manifold is cracked (fits the frame rails better than the 7mge did) Im thnking I can get it to fit in there.

cre · 06-23-2011, 02:43 AM

Yes, it quiets things down a little... but that's not the entire (or arguably the primary) reason for it... I've posted exhaustively on this in the past, research it a bit... then put it back on.

To put it simply: It quiets things down by reducing turbulence. Put it on at about the same distance from the throttle body as it is in the stock location.

I hope that air filter isn't in the engine bay... (or a K&N filter...

especially on an off-road vehicle)

Barring significant machine work you're not going to get much more out of the 7M-GE than Toyota already managed to squeeze out of it in the Supra version. Even with it you won't see amazing results, I know people who've bored the engine to its limit, put in stroker kits and custom cams, over sized valves and still don't even see 300RWHP. The 7M is just a poor 'all-motor' platform. I wouldn't really go beyond a port and polish, properly tuned intake and exhaust for your build, as cool (ceramic coated intake plumbing and inlet OUTSIDE of the engine bay) and smooth of an intake charge as possible. Don't run higher octane fuel than you need. Run the right temp range spark plugs (hotter plugs are NOT just magically better). Stop me if you already know all of this... :P Adding a thermostatically controlled oil cooler is a VERY good idea. If you're willing to sacrifice your highway mileage (

) a shorter end-gear would help a lot. Cams are a biggie naturally but keep an eye on the profile as the off-the-shelf aftermarkets are generally designed with the GTE in mind.

There are no excellent exhausts for the GE out there. You may try the Pacesetter or OBX, they'll both benefit from better scavenging as long as the rest of your exhaust is properly tuned for it (see: the right size piping for the job).

Nathaninwa · 06-24-2011, 12:41 AM

Well I need one, so I think Ill get that pacesetter header and give it a try. I got my 65mm throttle all done, well just need to weld on the fingers for the TPS, but it all fits up.

Ill tune the AFM with a wideband and dial it all in as well.

Im expecting my NA intake anyday.

Do I need to make a vacuum canister to operate it, or just plum it into the plenum itself? I can take some 3 inch intercooler piping and cap the ends and tap for some fittings if need be.

Im reading on that Hemholtz resonator....sounds very interesting.

Nathaninwa · 01-20-2012, 04:32 PM

Bumping this thread since all the relevant info is here. Finally got all the oodd projects done and have spent the past week tiding up the supra manul ecu swap over the auto cressida. Have the n/a intake and the vsv valve all wired up. I got the speed signal from the dash wired over and am about an hours way worth of work to starting this thing back up.

My question is, the ecu has a pinout for the clutchswitch, and the brake switch. Are these necesary inputs for proper operation? Is there a function ill lose by not hooking them up?

06-23-2011, 01:38 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Bigger throttle body on an N/A will most likely result in a more sluggish throttle response. Air velocity is higher the narrower the aperture but at a lower volume (You get the air in there faster and it's cooler). Air is charge is denser but also slower with a larger aperture... it's also in there sitting over the engine longer. Tune your intake for your needs. Physics my man, physics... and while we're on that subject, go ahead and put back the Helmholtz resonator that I'm sure you're also missing. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

06-23-2011, 02:43 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Yes, it quiets things down a little... but that's not the entire (or arguably the primary) reason for it... I've posted exhaustively on this in the past, research it a bit... then put it back on. To put it simply: It quiets things down by reducing turbulence. Put it on at about the same distance from the throttle body as it is in the stock location. I hope that air filter isn't in the engine bay... (or a K&N filter... especially on an off-road vehicle) Barring significant machine work you're not going to get much more out of the 7M-GE than Toyota already managed to squeeze out of it in the Supra version. Even with it you won't see amazing results, I know people who've bored the engine to its limit, put in stroker kits and custom cams, over sized valves and still don't even see 300RWHP. The 7M is just a poor 'all-motor' platform. I wouldn't really go beyond a port and polish, properly tuned intake and exhaust for your build, as cool (ceramic coated intake plumbing and inlet OUTSIDE of the engine bay) and smooth of an intake charge as possible. Don't run higher octane fuel than you need. Run the right temp range spark plugs (hotter plugs are NOT just magically better). Stop me if you already know all of this... :P Adding a thermostatically controlled oil cooler is a VERY good idea. If you're willing to sacrifice your highway mileage () a shorter end-gear would help a lot. Cams are a biggie naturally but keep an eye on the profile as the off-the-shelf aftermarkets are generally designed with the GTE in mind. There are no excellent exhausts for the GE out there. You may try the Pacesetter or OBX, they'll both benefit from better scavenging as long as the rest of your exhaust is properly tuned for it (see: the right size piping for the job). __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

06-22-2011, 02:50 AM	#1
Sonyps307 Lexus & 550's Join Date: May 2010 Location: Baltimore Posts: 526	I seen a guy use a TB from a newer mustang one of the daul butterfly ones and modded the n/a Y piece to fit it.

06-22-2011, 03:35 AM	#2
Nathaninwa Intake Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Aberdeen, WA Posts: 43	I think I saw that right up....throttle linkage would be tricky as off idle would be a bit touchy, and that much TB I think is to much, and could be that 3/4 throttle is acutally WOT since the motor cant really suck any more!

06-23-2011, 01:47 AM	#5
Nathaninwa Intake Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Aberdeen, WA Posts: 43	I have never really looked into the resonator...I was told long ago that it quieted the stock intake piping down for quiet operation. Im actually running 3 inch IC piping over to the AFM in the fender/core support junction. So on the subeject, what about the pace setter headers I see on Ebay, 3-1, 2-1 setup. My stock 5mge manifold is cracked (fits the frame rails better than the 7mge did) Im thnking I can get it to fit in there.

06-24-2011, 12:41 AM	#7
Nathaninwa Intake Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Aberdeen, WA Posts: 43	Well I need one, so I think Ill get that pacesetter header and give it a try. I got my 65mm throttle all done, well just need to weld on the fingers for the TPS, but it all fits up. Ill tune the AFM with a wideband and dial it all in as well. Im expecting my NA intake anyday. Do I need to make a vacuum canister to operate it, or just plum it into the plenum itself? I can take some 3 inch intercooler piping and cap the ends and tap for some fittings if need be. Im reading on that Hemholtz resonator....sounds very interesting.

01-20-2012, 04:32 PM	#8
Nathaninwa Intake Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Aberdeen, WA Posts: 43	Bumping this thread since all the relevant info is here. Finally got all the oodd projects done and have spent the past week tiding up the supra manul ecu swap over the auto cressida. Have the n/a intake and the vsv valve all wired up. I got the speed signal from the dash wired over and am about an hours way worth of work to starting this thing back up. My question is, the ecu has a pinout for the clutchswitch, and the brake switch. Are these necesary inputs for proper operation? Is there a function ill lose by not hooking them up?