Boost issues-Stuck BOV?

ksd9000 · 06-15-2011, 10:37 PM

Ok, so I got a BOSCH BPV and installed. Now I dont have the same noise as before. However, i think I'm hitting fuel cut???? In 2nd gear at WOT the boost pegs past the stock gauge limit and the engine bogs down. However, after letting off the gas, the car still hesitates and doesnt run properly. I have to nurse it along for about 30 seconds before it will just barely respond to throttle inputs without wanting to die. Shut it off for a minute and start back up and it runs fine until WOT issues again.

Questions:
1. Isnt the waste gate actuator supposed to open at 7psi? Should this not regulate the boost pressure to remain under fuel cut? I have not shimmed the WGA and there is no boost controller installed.
2. Do I NEED a boost controller?

BTW, I tightened the IC piping a lot more and its staying in place now. I didnt tighten more earlier for fear of breaking the plastic tubing. Didnt realize it had a metal sleeve inside to take a greater load than just the plastic would bear. All piping and lines are staying on now.....

cre · 06-16-2011, 01:51 AM

Put a real boost gauge on it, if only temporarily with the hose running out from under the hood into the passenger window.

Test the actuator with a bicycle pump. It should open approx 1cm by 9psi max... It should start opening sooner (5 to 6 psi but may not initially crack open until 8 or 9 when cold). Disconnect the actuator linkage while testing the actuator and check that the waste gate armature moves relatively freely.

Next would be to make sure the vacuum line from the compressor housing to the waste gate actuator isn't rerouted or obstructed.

No a boost controller is used to INCREASE the pressure needed for the waste gate to open it cannot reduce pressure.

ksd9000 · 06-18-2011, 05:11 AM

***UPDATE****

OK, so I got an aftermarket boost gauge and hooked it up. Did some more testing and found that the WG actuator was not moving. BTW I bought a blood pressure cuff at CVS and used the pump off it to make a SST that worked exactly like the one in the pic for the TSRM. Just tee'd off the boost gauge and was able to see the pressure at which the WGA opened...

OK so back to the testing... I applied pressure to the WGA and no movement. Some investigation showed that the new turbo came with an adjustable WGA rod. Well whoever put it togehter at the factory adjusted it to the shortest length. In essence it was like shimming the WGA so that it would never open. Some adjusting and pressure testing and the WGA moves freely and correctly.

Test drive.....she dies again around the block and neighbor has to tow me back to the house...

Feels like a fuel delivery issue now. Some more testing and find that there is so much vacuum build up in fuel tank that when I open the fuel cap, it sounds like a jet taking off...WOOOOOSSSSHHHHHHH. Ok, Start up and she runs fine now. Test drive and starving for fuel again.

Went out and bought a new fuel filter and fuel pump. Installation to ensue tomorrow...will post again with more details....

CRE, you help has been on point so far...thanks for your insight!

cre · 06-18-2011, 05:44 AM

Your love of TLAs is killing me. What do you mean when you say CVS? It's not ringing any bells for me.

Vacuum in the tank? Sounds like someone either tried to delete the evap control system (the charcoal canister is part of it) and didn't have a clue or it's plugged up... either way it can result in cavitation of the fuel pump impeller.

EDIT: ROFL!!!! Bought it AT CVS.... the store... never even seen one but heard of them in the past... I feel like a tool.

ksd9000 · 06-20-2011, 12:41 AM

TLA? Not sure what that is?

Fuel pump and filter replaced. Runs like a banshee!

Appears the evap system is deleted. No canister. How do I overcome the vacuum build up? Car didt have any of it when I got it.

cre · 06-20-2011, 01:32 AM

TLA = Three Letter Acronym.

My recommendation on the evap system would be to replace what's missing... otherwise you really are just wasting fuel (it does NOTHING to affect power output).

06-16-2011, 01:51 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Put a real boost gauge on it, if only temporarily with the hose running out from under the hood into the passenger window. Test the actuator with a bicycle pump. It should open approx 1cm by 9psi max... It should start opening sooner (5 to 6 psi but may not initially crack open until 8 or 9 when cold). Disconnect the actuator linkage while testing the actuator and check that the waste gate armature moves relatively freely. Next would be to make sure the vacuum line from the compressor housing to the waste gate actuator isn't rerouted or obstructed. No a boost controller is used to INCREASE the pressure needed for the waste gate to open it cannot reduce pressure. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

06-18-2011, 05:44 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Your love of TLAs is killing me. What do you mean when you say CVS? It's not ringing any bells for me. Vacuum in the tank? Sounds like someone either tried to delete the evap control system (the charcoal canister is part of it) and didn't have a clue or it's plugged up... either way it can result in cavitation of the fuel pump impeller. EDIT: ROFL!!!! Bought it AT CVS.... the store... never even seen one but heard of them in the past... I feel like a tool. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> Last edited by cre; 06-18-2011 at 07:42 AM.

06-20-2011, 01:32 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	TLA = Three Letter Acronym. My recommendation on the evap system would be to replace what's missing... otherwise you really are just wasting fuel (it does NOTHING to affect power output). __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

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06-15-2011, 10:37 PM	#1
ksd9000 Stock Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 10	Ok, so I got a BOSCH BPV and installed. Now I dont have the same noise as before. However, i think I'm hitting fuel cut???? In 2nd gear at WOT the boost pegs past the stock gauge limit and the engine bogs down. However, after letting off the gas, the car still hesitates and doesnt run properly. I have to nurse it along for about 30 seconds before it will just barely respond to throttle inputs without wanting to die. Shut it off for a minute and start back up and it runs fine until WOT issues again. Questions: 1. Isnt the waste gate actuator supposed to open at 7psi? Should this not regulate the boost pressure to remain under fuel cut? I have not shimmed the WGA and there is no boost controller installed. 2. Do I NEED a boost controller? BTW, I tightened the IC piping a lot more and its staying in place now. I didnt tighten more earlier for fear of breaking the plastic tubing. Didnt realize it had a metal sleeve inside to take a greater load than just the plastic would bear. All piping and lines are staying on now.....

06-18-2011, 05:11 AM	#3
ksd9000 Stock Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 10	*UPDATE** OK, so I got an aftermarket boost gauge and hooked it up. Did some more testing and found that the WG actuator was not moving. BTW I bought a blood pressure cuff at CVS and used the pump off it to make a SST that worked exactly like the one in the pic for the TSRM. Just tee'd off the boost gauge and was able to see the pressure at which the WGA opened... OK so back to the testing... I applied pressure to the WGA and no movement. Some investigation showed that the new turbo came with an adjustable WGA rod. Well whoever put it togehter at the factory adjusted it to the shortest length. In essence it was like shimming the WGA so that it would never open. Some adjusting and pressure testing and the WGA moves freely and correctly. Test drive.....she dies again around the block and neighbor has to tow me back to the house... Feels like a fuel delivery issue now. Some more testing and find that there is so much vacuum build up in fuel tank that when I open the fuel cap, it sounds like a jet taking off...WOOOOOSSSSHHHHHHH. Ok, Start up and she runs fine now. Test drive and starving for fuel again. Went out and bought a new fuel filter and fuel pump. Installation to ensue tomorrow...will post again with more details.... CRE, you help has been on point so far...thanks for your insight!

06-20-2011, 12:41 AM	#5
ksd9000 Stock Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 10	TLA? Not sure what that is? Fuel pump and filter replaced. Runs like a banshee! Appears the evap system is deleted. No canister. How do I overcome the vacuum build up? Car didt have any of it when I got it.