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What fluid did you have in it and what did you put in now? You need a 75W90 for the manual... or MT90 if you're using Redline.
The type of fluid and viscosity have absolutely no bearing on whether the transmission will shift when the vehicle is stopped; The shifter wasn't mated with the extension properly, that's all. |
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i use 80w90 it honestly dont matter i presume. off topic, did you know the "W" in "75w90" means winter? hahaha thats funny to me |
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haha no seriously.. 30w.. as in straight non multi-grade oils means weight but in 75w90, because its a multi-grade oil it means WINTER.. its viscosity is 75 in the summer.. and in the winter (the cold thickens the oil) its 90.. i learned this in class and was shocked as well and was thinking in my head "wow...my instructor is sniffing crack.." but its actually true. :whateva: idk why they cant just keep it as weight... but just a lil bit of info *to myself.."he thinks im retarded":crazy2: |
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The cold weight has more to do with the characteristics of the oil at any given point regardless of the outside temp. Also of note is that the weight or viscosity doesn't necessarily mean the oil is a certain "thickness".... there's a LOT of science to lubrication and it a good idea to at least read the basics. |
there is a lot to it..
i wAS just stating lol and trying to explain.. (not my best suit) |
good explanation, but you got them backwards. 75w90: the 75 is the "winter" weight. yes cold will "thicken" the oil, but the weight of the oil (as dealing with viscosity and "cling" effect, as well as several other properties) is lower to easy the stress on mechanical parts during start-up or initial movement.
once the oil reaches operating temperature, it will actually alter on a molecular level and increase viscosity and other properties of the oil to decrease wear, improve sealing and several other purposes of oil... i used to work for valvoline and had to take an extensive class on this. this is the same for regular motor oil, gear oil etc. that is why running a 5w30 (depending on application) is much better than a 10w30 or straight 30 during winter: it save massive wear on parts during start-up/initial movement. there are also several additives put into motor and gear oil (yes even non-synthetic ones) to aid in these properties. another interesting thing about oils; synthetic vs. conventional- there is actually no oil that is "synthetically" made, it is still just crude oil, that is further refined, and normally including more or further advanced modifiers than the ones added to conventional motor oil. if theres any other questions on this, lemme know, got alot of info on the subject (even got to go on "undercover" tours of other oil companies. lets just say, yikes! at what some companies put in their oil...) back on subject now :o |
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