Problem with transmission
 

I pulled my shifter out to put some more fluid in it and now it is stuck in reverse. What can I do to get it back to neutral?

I'm sorry, but I have to ask. Who the heck sold you shifter fluid??
I'd be happy to help but the question kinda has me floored. Auto/manual? What is stuck? The shifter or the trans?
If it was working before you did this, I am going to guess that you just put it on wrong. It's probably something not completely aligned. Try removing it again and making sure everything moves freely. Then make sure to carefully align everything so that nothing binds or interferes when installing it. Hopefully thats all it is.

Shifter fluid? Just how and what did you pull out? Would really like to know. Is it an automatic or manual?

On his profile it shows it as manual.

miss understood him,
you can put trans fluid in the shifter part if your to lazy to go down the street and buy a pump to pump it in the correct way..
i believe thats what he did...

as for why its stuck?
uhm its not?
you cant put the shifter in crooked soo you gotta pop it out with a screwdriver(same way you would if you were shifting out of reverse so you dont screw anything up)
idk how you took it out with it in reverse but its simple just pop it out with a screw driver or wiggle your shifter around in there til it pops out.

Filling the trans through the shifter? How do you know if its full or over filled?
A general rule is: if it worked before you touched it, and is doesn't work now, you kcufed up. Everybody does it. Go backwards in your steps until you find out where.

well you wouldnt know haha >.<
its dumb but can be done..
im sure he got it cuz he hasnt been replying :P

I don't think it's dumb...well maybe if you are just being lazy. It's actually pretty clever if say, you had a stripped fill plug. It would be good to know how much oil is in there though.
Probably got it figured out already.

There's noting wrong with filling it through the top.. Naturally it's foolish if you don't have a way to check that you are at the right level but sometimes it's still easier to fill this way even if you can get the fill plug off to check the fluid level.

Sorry about that guys I should have used gear oil instead. I got the problem fixed my brother help me get it back in neutral to straighten everything up. For a minute I thought I was screwed.
Thanks for the quick reply's.

Yeah I usually fill from the bottom and make the level right. But since the transmission is leaking it is the rear seal I am going to fix it soon. I usually put a little more in for the long run.

What fluid did you have in it and what did you put in now? You need a 75W90 for the manual... or MT90 if you're using Redline.

The type of fluid and viscosity have absolutely no bearing on whether the transmission will shift when the vehicle is stopped; The shifter wasn't mated with the extension properly, that's all.

75w90?

i use 80w90
it honestly dont matter i presume.

off topic, did you know the "W" in "75w90" means winter?
hahaha
thats funny to me

80W90 is acceptable.

Mmmmkay... And now we return you to your regularly scheduled paint huffing. :eek3:

haha no seriously..
30w.. as in straight non multi-grade oils means weight
but in 75w90, because its a multi-grade oil it means WINTER..
its viscosity is 75 in the summer.. and in the winter (the cold thickens the oil) its 90..

i learned this in class and was shocked as well and was thinking in my head "wow...my instructor is sniffing crack.."
but its actually true. :whateva:

idk why they cant just keep it as weight...
but just a lil bit of info
*to myself.."he thinks im retarded":crazy2:

Well, in his defense, it sounds like you're giving him little reason to believe otherwise. ROFL

The cold weight has more to do with the characteristics of the oil at any given point regardless of the outside temp. Also of note is that the weight or viscosity doesn't necessarily mean the oil is a certain "thickness".... there's a LOT of science to lubrication and it a good idea to at least read the basics.

there is a lot to it..
i wAS just stating lol and trying to explain.. (not my best suit)

good explanation, but you got them backwards. 75w90: the 75 is the "winter" weight. yes cold will "thicken" the oil, but the weight of the oil (as dealing with viscosity and "cling" effect, as well as several other properties) is lower to easy the stress on mechanical parts during start-up or initial movement.

once the oil reaches operating temperature, it will actually alter on a molecular level and increase viscosity and other properties of the oil to decrease wear, improve sealing and several other purposes of oil...

i used to work for valvoline and had to take an extensive class on this.

this is the same for regular motor oil, gear oil etc.

that is why running a 5w30 (depending on application) is much better than a 10w30 or straight 30 during winter: it save massive wear on parts during start-up/initial movement.

there are also several additives put into motor and gear oil (yes even non-synthetic ones) to aid in these properties.

another interesting thing about oils; synthetic vs. conventional- there is actually no oil that is "synthetically" made, it is still just crude oil, that is further refined, and normally including more or further advanced modifiers than the ones added to conventional motor oil.

if theres any other questions on this, lemme know, got alot of info on the subject (even got to go on "undercover" tours of other oil companies. lets just say, yikes! at what some companies put in their oil...)

back on subject now :o