Dtc 42

cre · 05-14-2011, 09:30 PM

The odds are that one of the segments of the speedometer cable is damaged. All data should show where it runs. Start with pulling off the lower segment which runs into the transmission and (while holding one end to prevent movement try to turn the other end a couple rotations... if it spins relatively freely that segment should be replaced, if not, reconnect it to the other half, turn and have someone check if the end in the cabin turns freely (with the cluster removed, of course)... if the cable is good.

Then try driving the speedo with a drill (pressing in a soft dowel about 1/8" should fit the speedo's interface.

The last part is the speedo drive gear in the transmission which the cable connects to, but save that for last as you'll have to drain the gear oil to check it (you can check to see if it spins freely while it's in though; If it does, it's shot).

NOTE: the only part which should move freely is the speedometer itself (naturally, the cable will if the other end is unbound though).

supraman8188 · 06-05-2011, 09:50 PM

Thanks cre good call..I do however have the issue of it cutting out when it warms up good

I swapped my afm with a friends and no change..I'm thinking the ecu...but not sure.....

I tried to run a resistor from E2-THA and it was as though the afm wasn't even connected..?

P.S. New clutch yesterday....

cre · 06-05-2011, 09:58 PM

I don't follow.

supraman8188 · 06-06-2011, 01:20 AM

which part do you not follow?

cre · 06-06-2011, 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supraman8188

I tried to run a resistor from E2-THA and it was as though the afm wasn't even connected..?

This part. You did what and why? Where did you try to insert the resistor, was the AFM still connected (It MUST be on a GE for the engine to run).... etc.

supraman8188 · 06-06-2011, 11:22 AM

I read what I think was a post by you to run that resister between the two terminals to trick the ecu..and yes the afm was plugged in at the time.

cre · 06-06-2011, 05:24 PM

That's only something you do if you're deleting the stock AFM.

Did you fix the speedometer?

Have you actually tested the AFM? And why'd you just jump to the AFM? You don't mention any error codes related to it.

supraman8188 · 06-07-2011, 12:22 PM

I had code 24 but I swapped the afm from my friends car and made no difference..how would I eliminate the afm?

cre · 06-07-2011, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supraman8188

how would I eliminate the afm?

On a GE? With more money than the car is probably worth.

Get the code 24 taken care of. In case you forgot you do have to pull the EFI fuse to reset the ECU after swapping the AFM and if you disconnect the AFM while the ignition is on it'll set a couple codes including 24. Otherwise you've got a wiring or ECU issue which you need to fix no matter what else you do.

05-14-2011, 09:30 PM	#1
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The odds are that one of the segments of the speedometer cable is damaged. All data should show where it runs. Start with pulling off the lower segment which runs into the transmission and (while holding one end to prevent movement try to turn the other end a couple rotations... if it spins relatively freely that segment should be replaced, if not, reconnect it to the other half, turn and have someone check if the end in the cabin turns freely (with the cluster removed, of course)... if the cable is good. Then try driving the speedo with a drill (pressing in a soft dowel about 1/8" should fit the speedo's interface. The last part is the speedo drive gear in the transmission which the cable connects to, but save that for last as you'll have to drain the gear oil to check it (you can check to see if it spins freely while it's in though; If it does, it's shot). NOTE: the only part which should move freely is the speedometer itself (naturally, the cable will if the other end is unbound though). __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

06-05-2011, 09:50 PM	#2
supraman8188 Stock Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: DSM, IA Posts: 25	Still stalling when hot Thanks cre good call..I do however have the issue of it cutting out when it warms up goodI swapped my afm with a friends and no change..I'm thinking the ecu...but not sure..... I tried to run a resistor from E2-THA and it was as though the afm wasn't even connected..? P.S. New clutch yesterday.... __________________ Supe supe! 1986.5 Supra Manual Red Mica(Maroon) w/wing: Custom sound system, 18" Tork Revos, smoked tail lights, markers, and turn signals. Mods: Eibach lowering springs, Energy poly front upper and lower control arm bushings, custom cold air intake, solid engine mounts, Magnaflow, short shifter, Optima Red Top, other custom fabrications..and yes a bra.

06-05-2011, 09:58 PM	#3
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I don't follow. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

06-06-2011, 01:20 AM	#4
supraman8188 Stock Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: DSM, IA Posts: 25	which part do you not follow? __________________ Supe supe! 1986.5 Supra Manual Red Mica(Maroon) w/wing: Custom sound system, 18" Tork Revos, smoked tail lights, markers, and turn signals. Mods: Eibach lowering springs, Energy poly front upper and lower control arm bushings, custom cold air intake, solid engine mounts, Magnaflow, short shifter, Optima Red Top, other custom fabrications..and yes a bra.

06-06-2011, 11:22 AM	#6
supraman8188 Stock Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: DSM, IA Posts: 25	I read what I think was a post by you to run that resister between the two terminals to trick the ecu..and yes the afm was plugged in at the time. __________________ Supe supe! 1986.5 Supra Manual Red Mica(Maroon) w/wing: Custom sound system, 18" Tork Revos, smoked tail lights, markers, and turn signals. Mods: Eibach lowering springs, Energy poly front upper and lower control arm bushings, custom cold air intake, solid engine mounts, Magnaflow, short shifter, Optima Red Top, other custom fabrications..and yes a bra.

06-06-2011, 05:24 PM	#7
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	That's only something you do if you're deleting the stock AFM. Did you fix the speedometer? Have you actually tested the AFM? And why'd you just jump to the AFM? You don't mention any error codes related to it. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

06-07-2011, 12:22 PM	#8
supraman8188 Stock Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: DSM, IA Posts: 25	I had code 24 but I swapped the afm from my friends car and made no difference..how would I eliminate the afm? __________________ Supe supe! 1986.5 Supra Manual Red Mica(Maroon) w/wing: Custom sound system, 18" Tork Revos, smoked tail lights, markers, and turn signals. Mods: Eibach lowering springs, Energy poly front upper and lower control arm bushings, custom cold air intake, solid engine mounts, Magnaflow, short shifter, Optima Red Top, other custom fabrications..and yes a bra.