Yes CRE, right again, the head bolts were not torqued good enough causing the head gasket to blow... All I know is I was told that the new OEM head gasket are much better then the original ones and there should be no problem if your not trying to boost the heck out of it. Also with ARP bolts torqued to 115 foot lbs, that bitch is not going anywhere.

Except that that's miles beyond ARP's rating and most likely beyond their yield capacity... No, stretched out head bolts aren't going to do anything except possibly warp the head (which isn't very beefy, I'm pretty sure I've posted pictures of a cross cut head before). You've got a load of reading and studying to do.

For the record, the torque for head bolts (ARP orToyota) should not exceed 75ft lbs (when properly lubricated with a good moly grease and the threads in the block properly chased) and studs no more than 95ft lbs. At this level there is still elasticity in the fastener and there will naturally be a small safety margin (both of which I suspect you're past)... They're made this way for a reason.

OK, check this out dude the head is plenty beefy. But you call this number right here 805-339-2200 and ask them what their head BOLT torque specks are for 7mgte. I even called to double check to make sure the paper was right. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...s-Torque-Specs
or
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...torque-on-them
Tell me what they said. What car do you have and what are you running in it? Did you do all the work yourself of did you pay someone else to do it for you??

I don't need to call them....

From your own link:
80 ft/lb with moly <---- holy crap! Even other people know!
120 with 30 weight oil.

That post is still high, but barely so. The ARP come with moly grease so unless you're using used fasteners and too cheap to get good lube you'll be using moly.. and thus... 75ft lbs. That also happens to be the approximate ISO specification for the fastener type and size.

[Looking at the wrong spec, I'll see if I can dig up the instruction sheet from a set] Actually, if you look at their website ARP specifies 50ft lbs (a revision which I'm surprised to see... I can probably dig up a couple old install sheets if I haven't thrown them out when I last cleaned): http://www.arp-bolts.com/instructions/203-6004.pdf [<--Spec for the rod bolts; See edit below.] US ISO for that fastener dimension is 72ft lbs.

I already said that I think I've posted a picture or two of a dissected 7M head, unless you've done the same don't go on about how "beefy" it is.

I haven't paid another mechanic to work on a car of mine in decades... I generally get paid for fixing other people's cars.... any other questions? Here's a hint, say no, I'm ready to make you the second person I've ever banned from this site.... you're really pissing me off.


EDIT: Scratch that on the spec sheet... just realized that was their rod fasteners... I thought that was weird. I'll dig up the head bolt specs in a bit.

EDIT2: There isn't an online guide for ARP 203-3902, but it you just Google "7M-GTE torque spec" you'll get a few THOUSAND hits (many of those from people who catually bought the hardware and READ the instructions stating between 70 and 80... I'm pretty sure it was 72 or 75 but it sure as shit isn't 115+, not on a new install and not using professional assembly lubricants.

If you're retorquing, the fasteners are unlubricated at all really and any torque reading you see is not to be trusted at all; They will generally be significantly higher than actual.

I belive when I put in my in my arp head studs the spec was 90ftlbs, and the studs have a higher spec than the bolts do.

That measurement at the site you linked to is FOR STUDS (which have a much higher torque than bolts):

80ft lbs with moly, 120ft lbs with regular 30wt oil. Here's a scan:

Attachment 3865

I'll look to see if I have one for bolts lying around when I have the time and think on it.

Now if you're saying 115ft lbs when using oil you need to specify; ARP bolts come with much better lube and as such if someone doesn't understand and torques to that level they will destroy the fasteners and risk damaging the head.

Yeah, I thought studs were 90 too... I'll look for another instal sheet for studs, this one was posted by another MKIII owner and he says it's from his kit.

Hey everyone sorry to be out of touch for a bit, I've got good news the kid finally got the car! After a week and a half of playing ipsy f*in diddly switch with the previous owner. The prev owner wanted to "be fair" and give the 2 people who called before him a chance at the car even though he had cash in hand to buy it. The 1st didnt want it and the 2nd needed "time to get the $ together" and the a$$ held it for him. WHAT a suprise he ended up backing out of the deal. Fortunately the kid took my advice and shot him an offer of 2/3 the asking price and they settled on about $250 less for the car. He's got it home and is gonna start tearing it apart and hopefully wait till I get up there in a few weeks to put it back together. Despite all the great info I've obtained here, he's got this friend that "knows everything" about cars and is trying to convince him to simply slap a gasket on it without sending the head off to the shop 1st. I've done that a few times in the past on my 2.2 Mopars, sometimes I got lucky, sometimes not. But from what I've learned here you cant do that with the 3.0 head and expect it to work. He's been trying to give me the excuse (and it's a sound principle) that if too much material is removed from the head it'll throw the cam timing off. Told him even if it were planed that far there are ways to compensate for it, head shim + neat-o shiney go-fast adjustable cam gears, lol In your experience at what point would a head shim be neceassary to restore proper cam timing? Would you guys advise for, or against a shim altogether? Also I'd want to chase the threads before installing the head bolts, what is the thread pitch? He's not going to mod the car at all, so we'll be going with a composite gasket, which manufacturers would you recommend/avoid? Same for the timing belt, which should I go for or stay away from? thanks again for all the responses, I've got great deal of info on here! :bigthumb:

if the shop needs to take that much material off, your in better shape buying a new car.. its always a good idea to clean up any mating surface when putting new parts on your car. especially the head gasket.
as for materials I just usually get OEM w/e I find is the cheapest from the different oem vendors I resource around the net and locally.

ill drop the links here in a minute.
Part Stores General Performance Shops Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 Xsboost Turbochargers - Canton, Ohio (OH) | Company Profile O'Reilly Auto Parts CXRacing.com kbox

Junk Yard / Salvage Search Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market WorldCarLink.com (rain guard) Engines & Transmissions: JASPER

OEM Vendors Toyota 123 parts MagAuto Redline Automotive Part Detail Toyota Parts, Toyota Venza Parts, TRD Supercharger, Genuine Toyota Parts, Toyota Accessories, Toyota World, Discounts on Toyota Parts Toyota Parts at toyotapartszone.com: Toyota Accessories, Toyota Auto Parts Toyota Parts - Factory Original OEM 1stToyotaParts.com :: Original parts for your Toyota Rock auto

Toyota Specific Profomance SupraSport Driftmotion HorsepowerFreaks Silacone Tubing supracarparts.com : Toyota Supra Used Parts : MKIII mk3 Supra turbo CT-26 engine transmission intercooler suspension intake AFM wheels lights mouldings, performance mods, japanese, import, racing, Blitz, Greddy, TRD, Apexi, HKS performance parts, information, pictures, photos, mods SupraStore.com Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2

I just dropped my part store bookmark folder.. lol have fun.

Ok back form the dead! It took months but he took it all apart, had the head planed (per the recommendations here and thankfully against the advice of his dipshit friend) put it all back together and has it running! My only gripe is he used an MLS gasket when a composite would have been in order but so far so good and no leaks. However he is having a few troubles with the car, from what I've been told it acts as if its hitting fuel cutout. I set the turbo up so that there is NO controller, no solenoid or anything between the boost/vacuum nipple and the wastegate. So maybe it hits 4-5 psi max, no way it makes nearly enough to trip any comptuer programmed shutdown. He says that when it does this the check engine light flashes and shuts off. He thinks it may be fuel related, Im not sure but I want to check a few things including fuel pressure. My questions are what is static pressure supposed to be? Where do you connect a pressure tester? How do you retrieve codes from this car, and where can I find a list of fault code discriptions? Is the fuel pressure adjustable with stock components? He says there appears to be a knob on what he says is the regulator on the rail that hes played with. Any ideas are greatly appreciated
Thanks in Advance
Chris