EFI Fuse Random no start
 

So.. Sometimes here and there 4 of 10 times I start my car, it wont.. I have to pull the EFI fuse. Count to 30 and try until up to the 5th time.. Finally it starts.. If I don't pull the EFI fuse.. It won't start at all.. :(

What can I do..

I have replaced the fuse.. Don't know what else to do. :)

Ideas?:wavey:

Engine knock 3k RPM
 

I have some engine knock at 3k RPM - 5k RPM...
(Tap tap tap tap tap sound, or you could say slap slap slap both accurate)

Things I did recently to my 7MGTE Supra..

I changed the tps..

I wonder if the timing is off some how. IDK how, but that's my gut feeling...

Ideas? :naughty:

7M's are non-interference engines, so if you're thinking that the sound is valves and pistons making contact, that can't happen with OEM internals.

Nearly forgot i have a code 52.. Sometimes a code 31.. I think until they are cleared up that the car is pulling some timing and that would = the knock knock knock knock..

You need to post in one thread when dealing with multiple problems... they may be related.

Alone this thread is tough... BUT, when added to the code 52 and knocking noise you talk about in your other thread it makes a whole lot more sense.

Do some more research on both code 52 and rod knock and how the ECU reacts to both and you'll find your answer.

Is this the right answer??

Code 52 indicates that a knock sensor went bad or it is no longer getting a signal. If your engine is knocking or pinging the ECU will retard timing on its own to compensate, it WILL NOT throw a light. Plus code 52 puts your car into a safe mode, since the ECU isn't getting a reading from the KS it goes into a safe mode where the timing gets fully retarded to keep ya from detonating and possibly doing damage.

For the most part. I'm pretty sure it does trigger the check engine light but it's not persistent. It also add a LOT of fuel to the mixture to reduce knock which may cause flooding. The most common cause of the code 52 is deteriorating wiring; Second would be a physically broken sensor connector. The GTE has 2 knock sensors and the GE has one.

Sounds like you've got rod knock too though.

Maybe there is some oil im low on too.. I will check it again when im off work. I swear it was fine but found some oil under the hood this morning. Also, my damn radiator cap died.. It was hissing a bit when I got to work and some anti freeze was in the over flow above normal. I think this could be something else. NOT A BHG.. More likely just needed the cap replaced, or the other issues are causing that one..

Got rid of the 52.. Now I just get a 51 when I drive. When I am sitting it's just normal.. So I thinking of taking it in to my local shop. I don't wanna get taken.. Any ideas for things to watch out for..

I am thinking I just didn't calibrate it correctly.. I must be a little off. The thing shouldn't be bad but there is that slight chance it is. I bought it from a guy who had it on a working supra he was parting out.. Assuming it was good. I must have just messed up the calibration. I understand that if your even a hair off. It will throw this code..

SO.. MY QUESTION IS...
If I get it calibrated correctly, assuming there are no other issues. The code 51 should go away?

Just loosen The screws on the tps then do the jumper. when it flashes code 51 turn the tps intill the code goes away. Now recheck for codes.