EFI Fuse Random no start
 

So.. Sometimes here and there 4 of 10 times I start my car, it wont.. I have to pull the EFI fuse. Count to 30 and try until up to the 5th time.. Finally it starts.. If I don't pull the EFI fuse.. It won't start at all.. :(

What can I do..

I have replaced the fuse.. Don't know what else to do. :)

Ideas?:wavey:

Engine knock 3k RPM
 

I have some engine knock at 3k RPM - 5k RPM...
(Tap tap tap tap tap sound, or you could say slap slap slap both accurate)

Things I did recently to my 7MGTE Supra..

I changed the tps..

I wonder if the timing is off some how. IDK how, but that's my gut feeling...

Ideas? :naughty:

7M's are non-interference engines, so if you're thinking that the sound is valves and pistons making contact, that can't happen with OEM internals.

Nearly forgot i have a code 52.. Sometimes a code 31.. I think until they are cleared up that the car is pulling some timing and that would = the knock knock knock knock..

You need to post in one thread when dealing with multiple problems... they may be related.

Alone this thread is tough... BUT, when added to the code 52 and knocking noise you talk about in your other thread it makes a whole lot more sense.

Do some more research on both code 52 and rod knock and how the ECU reacts to both and you'll find your answer.

Is this the right answer??

Code 52 indicates that a knock sensor went bad or it is no longer getting a signal. If your engine is knocking or pinging the ECU will retard timing on its own to compensate, it WILL NOT throw a light. Plus code 52 puts your car into a safe mode, since the ECU isn't getting a reading from the KS it goes into a safe mode where the timing gets fully retarded to keep ya from detonating and possibly doing damage.

For the most part. I'm pretty sure it does trigger the check engine light but it's not persistent. It also add a LOT of fuel to the mixture to reduce knock which may cause flooding. The most common cause of the code 52 is deteriorating wiring; Second would be a physically broken sensor connector. The GTE has 2 knock sensors and the GE has one.

Sounds like you've got rod knock too though.

Maybe there is some oil im low on too.. I will check it again when im off work. I swear it was fine but found some oil under the hood this morning. Also, my damn radiator cap died.. It was hissing a bit when I got to work and some anti freeze was in the over flow above normal. I think this could be something else. NOT A BHG.. More likely just needed the cap replaced, or the other issues are causing that one..

Got rid of the 52.. Now I just get a 51 when I drive. When I am sitting it's just normal.. So I thinking of taking it in to my local shop. I don't wanna get taken.. Any ideas for things to watch out for..

I am thinking I just didn't calibrate it correctly.. I must be a little off. The thing shouldn't be bad but there is that slight chance it is. I bought it from a guy who had it on a working supra he was parting out.. Assuming it was good. I must have just messed up the calibration. I understand that if your even a hair off. It will throw this code..

SO.. MY QUESTION IS...
If I get it calibrated correctly, assuming there are no other issues. The code 51 should go away?

Just loosen The screws on the tps then do the jumper. when it flashes code 51 turn the tps intill the code goes away. Now recheck for codes.

Can you adjust it with the car running??

I tried every adjustment.. I used my volt meter as well after 30mins of adjustments didn't work without it..

So~.. I'm going to get a new one from DriftMotion.... If that won't fix it then there has to be another issue.. ::Sigh::

So for now.. Hurray for shitty gas milage..! :whateva:

Not the best way to do this. The specified gap is there for a reason. It's alright to do this for testing purposes but you may have intermittent idle issues.

A code 51 will occur if the A/C is turned on while the diagnostic is running or if you press the throttle too.

Additionally, a bad TPS isn't going to cause the problem you're describing.

WTF really??!! SHIT I didn't know that! I would press the damn gas and boom 1500rpm and code 51!!! Now i gotta recalibrate it correctly and call it a day. Then find the real issue.. Check the knock sensors and maybe need to do a rebuild.. I mean it only knocks from 2k to 3.5k rpm.. It's not super duper loud like these videos either. Oil is good too. Argh~!

Well, that's what you get for not checking with me first. :naughty:

I suspect you've got a knock (just an uneducated guess) AND bad knock sensor wiring.... some people do mistaken other noises for knock though so take it from the beginning.

First, you need to fix the code 52... you MUST do this first as the extra fuel and pulled timing could be making another, smaller problem sound worse than it is.

Second, you can do this at the start too, check for any loose studs or leaks at the union of head and exhaust manifold; Some people mistaken the sound of an exhaust leak at this location for a knock.

Third, make sure there is spark getting to each cylinder.

Fourth, if you have NO CODES, check the spark timing and mechanical timing. You cannot adjust the timing if you have any diagnostic codes or the engine is cold or idling erratically.

Fifth, with all that checked, check for the offending cylinder. Start the car and have an assistant hold the car at the lowest possible RPM where the noise is still audible. Now pull the plug wires, one at a time, until the sound is gone; the engine will bog, but the sound will be gone. Wear some heavy rubber gloves to avoid getting shocked and don't let the spark jump the gap. If the noise doesn't go away you're most likely looking at a cam related problem.

Sixth, if the sound did go away when pulling one of the plug wires you now know what cylinder to focus on. Check the valves, shims, compression, spark plug and injector. If theses check out, it's time to open the bottom end.

WOW! That was a huge help! I think an awesome step by step.
The weirdest thing happened.. I am baffeled.. They must have done somthing they are not saying and I know thats not it.. Because it was 6ft up the entire time.. The knock.. GONE! They simply put a high flow cat on and my down pipe..

They did say that there where 2 missing bolts from the turbo to the turbo elbow.. WTF! So maybe there was some leak or something that was causing this knock knock sound.. :eek2:

Oh and I took care of the code 52 almost as soon as I posted my 3rd postish..

So~ Could the 2 missing bolt have caused that issue with the knock knock (POSSIBLY)?

wow....























lol.

I think an exhaust leak sounds quite different but, like I said, plenty of people make that mistake... Usually that far away from the head it doesn't sound as hard as it does at the header, but I won't be surprised if that's all it was.

So.... Now i been spying my oil pressure.. Before my turbo died and i had to replace it my gauge would jump up under load to right above 40.. Now it is maybe up to the first bar (or a little under).. I am assuming thats 10.. I will be checking my plugs that where linked to the oil from the turbo swap. Any other ideas...?

:outahere:

The stock oil pressure gauge is virtually useless for any significant diagnostic or measurement purposes. The spec for oil pressure is pretty low in general and very low at idle. I believe as low as 6psi at idle is acceptable, over 3KRPM though you wshould see between 30psi and 60psi.... lol. how's that for vague?

That sounds like your rod is knocking....Time for a 7MGTE!!! lol

He's running a 7M-GTE.... thanks for being ever so helpful though. :squint:

lol, so for whatever reason my oil dipstick is not reading out properly. It said full but when I changed the oil it was like 2qt low. Wtf... It seems to be seated properly too...

ya the knock came back with a vengeance. I thought I was going to lose her. so I figured lets try changing the oil and sure enough the knock quieted down a ton. Its there a little but still but much much less. So I think I need a little more oil. Lol, but I can't get an accurate reading. Im going to get a new dip from driftmotion but not till next month. Any ideas?

If it's knocking that bad and you're losing that much oil I'm sorry to say the damage is done my friend.... rebuild time. Before you even bother ordering a new dipstick, drain the oil and measure how much you get back out; It will be very obvious if you're missing more than 1/2qt.

DUDE! I drove my car like 8 miles.. Boom! LOCKED UP!!! Ya, the jiffy lube that changed it was saying they had a hard time getting off the oil filter due to the position and size of the down pipe. They finally got it. I asked them to make sure they get it on tight as they said they would and apparently did.. APPARENTLY NOT!

So I get out of the car while i'm stuck in the middle of a huge interection on a HILL! Call AAA, have it towed to the mechanic. He said he would see EXACTLY what happened and get after the jiffy lube. Luckily he knows the owner of the jiffy lube from previous instances of sports car oil changes gone wrong.

It was obvious by the smell to me that this had to do with them. Idk what kind of knock I had. It was not that bad.

That's BS man... unless there was oil pouring down the side of the filter or they flat out forgot to put it on I VERY seriously doubt they did jack wrong (this time anyway).

You already had a knock, just because it disappeared (VERY briefly) before this happened doesn't rule out mechanical failure due to wear or the fact that (as you admit) you were running her WAY low on oil...

Suck it up man... it's quite likely you're the one at fault here.

I was prepared to suck it up the moment i got stuck.. Then i smelled the burning "SHITTY" pensoil.. Seen some dripping from the oil filter.. Some was on the flatbed truck too.. :(

I didn't say that before because I wanted to have the tech tell me for sure before I got blasted.. Lol, too late for that..

Sorry man, but at this point I'm waiting for the mechanic to call me personally to tell me you didn't just throw a rod through the block or oil pan. :P

And BTW, Pennzoil makes two of the best full synthetic oils (that really are synthetic) that you can run.

Any way about it, I hope the engine isn't trashed... Be a shame to lose another 7M, as they'll be getting scarce soon.

You think that JIFFY LUBE uses the good stuff.. naa, they gave me the shitty pennzoil. Lol, well if he calls you first then I know it was you 2 that set me up! DAMN YOU BOTH!

Naa, don't think I threw a rod. It shut down when I was turning at maybe 1k rpm. No loud noises, just.. !!!!!LOCK DOWN!!!!!

I was looking around and figured that I could get the parts on DriftMotion for my rebuild. It will run me about $643?

7M Engine Gasket Set $99.00
NPR 7M-GE Piston Set $120.00
Freeze plug set $30.00
7m Clevite77 Bearing Set $125.00
7M Timing Belt $34.00
7M-GTE Turbo Oil Pump $235.00
$643.00


That's all I need for a basic rebuild?

Machine work... If it seized it's going to need to be machined, if not replaced.

Don't forget all new seals. Might as well replace the timing belt pulley before it comes apart or get the walls tack welded to ensure they don't come off. Replace the valve stem seals while the head's off. Get the head dye and vacuum tested. Make sure NOTHING is warped. You'll need to have the block inspected to make sure the cylinders aren't out of round. The crank is most likely going to need reworked and you'll need a different size bearing. If I think of anything else I'll post it. You'll know more once you get it apart though.

Should I do this one instead.. I don't think there is enough info...

http://www.perfectengine.com/Toyota_...ROC-EK943M.htm

You da man. Ya for sure I was going to have the block done up and machined.its awesome its so cheap. Fuck me in... If I have to replace the block. Though I have done cheap options.

Mechanic found a good amount of the engine flush in the oil. Soooo~ he said that is really bad.. Thx Tiffy Loo..

What do you think..?

Wow... look what I found....

Can a Engine Oil Flush Cause Damage to the Engine?

There are a lot of opinions as to whether or not an engine oil flush can cause damage to the vehicles engine. Since today’s modern engines have tighter oil passages than the engines of old, there’s a possibility that sludge deposits could break up and become lodged in oil passages. This could decrease the flow of engine oil to vital engine components and cause damage to those components.

Another possibility is that particles from the engine oil flush could block the pick up screen to the engine oil pump. This could cause a loss of oil pressure that could result in engine damage.

If an engine oil flush is performed, ask the service advisor if there are any warranties or guarantees against engine damage. If there is a warranty that comes with an engine flush service, get it in writing, don’t take a service advisors word for it. If the engine oil and filter are religiously replaced at the manufacturers recommended intervals, there shouldn’t be a need to have the vehicles engine oil flushed.

From:
http://www.suite101.com/content/engi...d-cons-a137008

Engine flush cleans the sludge out and it also thins out the oil. Maybe a piece of sludge got stuck because they didnt run it long enough. Which blocked the oil from getting to the parts. Then u said he found alot of motor flush in the oil then your oil was real thin then and it can't lube the parts good. Are you sure they even changed the oil. That's why I do my oil changes everyone is out to get ur money now days.

For sure..