89 turbo supra 5 speed dies in mid shift????

[jtown125]

@cre...

this is the bov that is on my car

if its adjustable, i don't know how to.

I was wrong in the earlier post it is a ssqv bov, just a older discontinued item.


http://www.streetunit.com/HKS_SSQV_B...1421-sa001.htm

[cre]

There are spring kits and a re-circ kit available for those. The intent in adjusting a poppet or valve isn't to limit the amount of air that's exiting as that also induces surge (the whole reason for the BOV/BPV to begin with)... The purpose is to set the amount of vacuum required to open the valve. You should get the hardware to tune it OR run it re-circ and get over the "uber cool whistle", IMHO.

[cre]

By the way, adding a tighter spring or adding a restriction to the reference line (which I didn't discuss) won't fix the problem... they're hacks which will cause another type of problem and just REDUCE the existing one... you'll still spike rich when shifting (which has NOTHING to do with how rich the car runs normally) and you may still run stall periodically. They're just hacks.

With a healthy turbo a LITTLE surge isn't a huge concern and will improve throttle response during a fast, high load shift (see automatic transmission )... It's not something you want to expose an old turbo to as much as possible.

[jtown125]

"get over the "uber cool whistle", IMHO. "

I think that the uber cool whistle makes the car....
the one thing I enjoy most about the supra is when someone who has a very expensive car with a v8 pulls up beside me at a redlight... I laugh.

and i know that everyone on here can appreciate that.

Im not going to drive it for a while since the kit is just as much as a bypass valve or an offbrand bov. I know it isn't good for it.

And if it is still going to do it with a new spring kit I don't see that being the best idea.

I like putting both the bov and bpv on...

If I was to recirculate...where would i put the other end of the hose?
Cause its a cold air intake with the bov.

[btwilson86]

It would have to recirculate to the intake hose between the AFM and the turbo.

[cre]

RANT:
No.... the thing I like about pulling up next to a high dollar car is kicking their ass and it not sounding at all like I'm trying. It gives people chills, says I just won your girlfriend and I've still got more. I've had it done to me by a couple VERY cool (all under the hood) cars and I've done it to some as well. Besides, a large amount of people think nothing good about those who are doing it just for sound (and yes, many of us do know when you come driving up if it's doing you any good or just some stupid ricer punk mod to look more like Mr. Diesel or that blonde guy... or someone from Initial D if that's your thing.... ). But, to each his own; I'll still help where I care to.
/RANT


Running dual will still leave you running rich at the shifts (and thus still cost you power and throttle response). A dual setup probably isn't your thing anyway as it cuts the volume of the whistle in half. Getting the electronics to live happily with whatever arrangement you're running is the key here and you may also find that there's more power to be had from a good tune; The stock fuel maps are quite conservative and rich.

You really have three choices:
1) IF you're more concerned about actual power and efficiency, tune it.

2) IF you're worried about drive-ability and cost along with power, get the recirculation kit or a BPV and get over your love for Big Bird.

3) IF you really don't give a crap about any of the above other than somewhat decent dive-ability then run a dual setup and be done. It will still bog, possibly stumble, but shouldn't stall.... take your current problem and cut it in half.

I suppose you could install a "bad boy" switch. Install both BOV and BPV Connect a VSV to a PWM and place the VSV on the signal line to the BOV. When you want to act tough flip the switch to turn on the BOV; When you're ready to drive aggressively turn it off and you turn the BOV off, leaving the BPV running solo. (You could also turn off the BOV when a cop gets behind you this way.)

There are other ways to deal with this but the cost just keeps getting higher. The issue lies with both the ECU and AFM (this problem affects both VAFM and KVAFM setups).

[jtown125]

I just bought a new bov and recirc kit...

ill let ya know how it goes...

it will probably be the week after next before anything gets here anyway....

[jtown125]

For those who have been following this thread and may have similar problem. I ended up putting octane booster in the gas (routine for me) and the car still stalled, but did not die. I also ended up putting premium instead of mid-grade in this time, so I'm sure the combo had a big thing to do with it helping out.

I'm going to see if this will make any difference in a longer term and post my results back at a later time.

If this doesn't help your situation, revert back to previous suggestions.

Thanks!

[cre]

Be aware that the higher the octane the less power you make per unit of fuel. Higher octane fuel has mush lower kenetic energy and once you go beyond the ECU's ability to increase spark advance you lose both power and mileage.

I have no idea how that would fix your stall issue from a vented BOV... should choke up the engine just as much... You may have been experiencing an additional over-rich condition due to pinging which combined with the over-rich condition from the vented BOV.