OP, you said that you replaced the big wire that goes to the starter (i'm assuming that this is the one that you said only had 400mv); what is the voltage at the wire now? This wire, at all times (regardless of if the key is on, clutch is pressed, alarm is armed), should always read the same voltage of the battery. Period. It is a direct connection to the battery, there is nothing inline that can cut the power to it.

Do this in the order listed below:

1. You said it's a new battery, have you verified that it still has a charge? Use your volt meter and check the voltage of the battery between the positive and negative posts. If this isn't around 12 volts, charge the battery.
2. Check the voltage of the big wire at the starter to the negative post. If this is not the same as #1, inspect the positive battery terminal. If it is, continue to #3
3. Check the voltage of the big wire at the starter to a clean spot on the engine block. Voltage here should still be the same as the above two bullets. If it is not, inspect your negative battery cable for damage, corrosion, or poor connection at each end.

If your voltage is still the same, then your problem lies in the circuit leading to the small wire on the starter, or within the starter itself. As Travis89Turbo said, just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. All parts have a percentage of defects out the box, yours could be one of them.

this website should help,
since were arguing about what it is and dont have very much information on whats going on you need to read this..

it gives your common questions or problems and gives you the answers..

if you found the problem on the troubleshooting list (the link) and the trouble shoot didnt work then come back to us with the correct problem and the best information you can give us...

heres the link
http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/index.html#click

the area you need to look at on this page is in the middle..
starting with "The starter won't crank" - thru - "battery problems"

this info should help you..

Okay, it was just ba wiring in the harness. I replaced it wit a manual harness and got it to turn over but no spark now :( I checked to see if there was power getting to the coil pack (book said 12 volts) and there was no power 0 Volts. I checked the igniter and there wa 11 volts getting to it. So could the problem be the coil pack??

So u just bypassed the harness correct? U need to make sure that ignition signal gets to the ecu as well

No, I just swapped in the manual harness and it turned over. Just no starting all the way.

read that link i gave you..
you replaced the harness,
soo the website should tell you what to do..

i would say check your grounds cause i had the same issue but i didnt do a swap but it sounds like my problem check all the grounds and mine was the ground in the steering colum

Where would the ground be for the steering column?

also does the cam position sensor have to be timed? from what I was told you just put it in and make sure the bolt that holds it is in the middle??

Yes, you have to time the CPS. No, you can't just drop it in. You have to line the gear up with the mark on the CPS, when you install it you have to compensate for the several degrees the whole thing is going to turn. Here is a link to the TSRM on how to PROPERLY install the CPS. Be sure you follow that last step (setting the ignition timing).

So I finaly got to it today, tried the ignition timing and still nothing! :( Any oter suggestions?? if not, time to call a mechanic.