acceleration issues and exhaust leaking
 

ok first thing is first i would like to thank everyone on this forum for the help though the times iv used this site as research.

hello my name is mike iv owned my supra for 6 yrs now she is my first car and since the first time iv herd her growl i fell in love with the MKIII line lol.

i would like to thank MRnickleye for the tip on fixing the crimped washer on the drive shaft that helped alot and kudos. i originally thought that the noise was the alternator baring going so i got a new one warranted and still the problem went on the shop said it was the timing tensioner but even the shop was wrong and once i got the timing cover off it was that washer and thanks to nickleye its now fixed till i can get a new one.

ok to the problem at hand. :umno:

i have no acceleration it feels like im pressing on the brakes and gas at the same time. when we took the timing cover off we also took the radiator off. i blocked both trans lines with bolts so they didnt leak well we were fixing the drive shaft. once we had everything back together we left the radiator off. started her up to see if everything was good. didnt let her run because didnt want her to over heat with everything off and no belts on. everything is back together now and i have bad acceleration. all lines are in there right places and everything in its place. my dad said to check the trans fluid so i did and she was low. i added new trans well she was at idle temp and ran her though all gears 3 times. checked the trans level was ware it was suppose to be so i drove her afew miles to my grandmas house and everything was fine she accelerated nicely no hickups nothing. got to my grandmas house and she was smoking figured it was from the engine burning off coulen't witch was spilled when i went to check the radiator lvl. then i checked the trans fluid lvl and its saying its over filled something that made no sense. so was at her house for a good hr and a half. drove the supra home and i had poor acceleration yet again. when i got home i noticed she was smoking again so i went looking for the source and found out that the exhaust is leaking.

like i said iv been doing research on all this and came up with it being eather the exhaust witch is something my dad says it isnt or its theshift solenoids.

background of the supra
the model of the supra is a MA70 1986.5 supra n/a automatic.
when i got her she didnt run and me and my dad spent a yr bringing her back to life. when i got her there were wires cut under the dash water ware the spare tier sits and a relay running to the starter and to the ignition.
everything is fixed now wires under the dash no more relay and starter is back ware it belongs. i dont get any water in the back of the car sep when im driving in rain but that has been fixed with fiberglass and rubber under coating.

the other problem im having is she dosnt like to start after short distance trips say my house to get gas she will die at the pump. the mechanic i took her to told me that the ignition switch and starter relay were high resistance. and was wondering if anyone knew what the resistance was suppose to be at. also iv replaced all the brackes and brack clips and everything only to find out that all 4 calipers are seazed in place and only move up and down being as the rod from the housing is louse and was wondering if there is an easy fix or do i need new calipers and there housings? :dunno:

i would be going to the threads that sound the same to my problem and posting all this but there older posts and figured no one would be on them.

any help would me great!
Mike

Cre?? Someone!! ANYONE!! Help this guy.. He just wrote a book and the subject he used made me dizzy..

The only thing I could say to help you out friend is either find a mechanic who knows what the hell they are doing or go to a tuner shop.. They usually know what they are doing and can look up things in a snap ::SNAPS FINGERS::! I have been into PRE here in Portland and seen them swarmed with customer asking all kinds of questions. Jason simply looks it anything that's specific like and gives the correct figures.. Amazing I tell you..

many thanks, acceleration issues and exhaust smoking
 

well seeing as i live in the middle of no ware and about 2 hrs away from chicago there isnt anyone around here i would even think or trust to take my car to. the guy who i allowed to work on the wiring under the dash i only allowed to do that cause his son use to own a supra and helped me get the car running when she died at the pump but with being tight on cash and this being the way it is i wouldn't trust him with this work. plus fixing the wires under the dash costed me 400 there.... this is my first car and im protective lol

Oh, your first car.. Shhoot~! No worries. The folks here know quite a bit.. When they notice your post they will most likely reply with some info. It may take a while to help you get it narrowed down but with enough time and research you will be back in your Supra with all the power at your feet!

To help you out. I would put a little detail in your title so when the others see your post they actually want to click on the link to help. It's becoming less and less that these types of post actually get help.. So, click on edit and advanced.. Then change your title.. Then you will get help..

Read this if you want help for description Please use descriptive titles

thank you for the advice. i changed the title and will keep what you said in mind. the only thing that really concerns me is that i work tomorrow and have no other car and with the exhaust smoking and acceleration issues if its safe to driver her with out something f-----g up. i have no other car to use.

To simplify so your spewing out smoke and spuddering really bad right?

yes near the exhaust manifold on the down pipe. my guess since the plating around it is rusted it and rattles when i drive it put a hole in it. ill snag my sister camera and upload pics tomorrow before i leave for work

Well on my 88 n/a I had to replace the rings (Seals) that go from the manidfold down to the pipe below. They where a disaster. I got them back and they where like onions! Smoke was coming threw there. BTW my car.. It was a BHG.. You may want to start thinking that one. I mean.. If so.. There is a small fix that works for a VERY SHORT TIME! You CANNOT drive your car hard at all either with this method... I found this out the hard way and had to do it a second time..

i had my grandfather and my dad look at her and both said the HG was fine. i haf a BHG run though my head many of times. i was thinking about getting a new exhaust pipe from autozone for 105. but my dad said the leak from the exhaust was the problem. so he keeps going back to its the trans that the problem. also duly noted on not driving her hard the only time i do is usually on the highway i go 80.

I didn't think the transmission could cause smoke to come out your tail pipe.. But honestly, I'm always learning. I never ran into that or seen that type of problem (noob me i guess). Regardless.. If you think its a pipe don't you think you could just seal it with some sealer. I have done that one before. Sealer for exhaust pipes.. Err, though if it's to high up on the pipe the pressure will be to great and poof.. Back to square 1.

no smoke isnt coming out of the tail pipe but the down shaft. the acceleration problem my dad thinks is the trans not the exhaust leak

Pictures when you can please.. If anything.. Hope it's the easier cheaper fix..

cheeper the better lol. and will do on the pictures. lets see you got the exhaust manifold on the engine then you got the down pipe bolted to it. a little way down theres heat shield or something around it. mines rusted and rattles when i drive my guess is it punctured a hole into it. thats ware the smoke is coming from. and comes up into the engine bay witch is why i thought that the engine was burning of coolent and thought nothing of it till i got home.

Did you check the oil? Color is normal? or looks lighter like coolant is in it? So you got the heat thing going down there.. You can't see where it's coming from. Have you tried revving the engine from the hood. You know.. So you can see where it's coming from (I am sure you did this so just ignore me until someone smarter comes along)..

just changed the oil and i know its coming from this area cause you can see the smoke billowing out of the shield and yes it gets worse when you revv the engine. ill have pics in the morning to show this. the trans fluid isnt brownish red and dosnt smell burnt.

Your not losing coolant are you? How often are you refilling your coolant? ever?? If your losing coolant.. BHG.. Anyways, i'm going to bed.. Good luck.. The others usually see new posts in the morning.

ok ty for the help. and no i rarely fill the coolant. i fully drained it and took it off when i did the drive shaft fix. could the trans pump stop working if you plug the hoses leading to the radiator? also when we went to put the timing belt back on the cams rolled back one notch. but i dont see that messing with acceloration.

that exhaust leak might cause poor acceleration on a NA were back pressure is a good thing.. are we talking a PLUME of smoke here?.. but I don't see that being the issue. your dad is on the right track with the transmission. all small searches I did point twords your tranny going.. Do a tranny diagnostic.. what other codes are you throwing.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=AT&P=1
thats the link for the automatic transmission page for the Toyota Supra repair manual.. learn it, love it, live it..
check for codes on your tranny and report back..

other issues.
your afm could be the culprit..
check here also
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=EM&P=5
theres a link for checking engine codes in the faq. or consult the tsrm.. its in there.

whats your idle sound like after you got back from the test trip.
if you have a normal idle of what is it.. 700 for an na?

whoa.. hold on just seen that your cams shifted position..

lol re set your timing there bucko.

hers the Ignition system page
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=IG&P=1

Almighty i took a a look at the code link. lG-7 code the one about the spark plugs is all i can come up with well we were working in the timing area we found alot of oil in the first silonder spark plug. we didnt check the others since to much work pulling off the throttle body. she idles fine with no shakes or falts. idles between 700 and 600 rpms at cold start then when wormed up stays between 800 and 700 rpms. its how she has been when i got her. could the timing off by one notch cause the engine to revv high but not gain any speed? if so then we will reset the timing. is there a way to keep the cams from moving? also once the car is wormed up ill have afew pics on ware she is leaking from the exhaust.

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...picture679.jpg

this is ware i see the smoke coming from. also this shield here rattles when i drive.

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...picture680.jpg

this has been this way since iv owned the car and was wondering if it is a bad thing? iv cleaned it up afew times but it just comes back so im guessing its a bad thing.

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...picture681.jpg

this is the inside of the throttle body. also she fires from cylinder 1. and if it prove its the trans i drove her in L to the store then back home in D she seems to be accelerated better. but then again my last test run she did the same thing then went back to acting up.:confused:

also if when i go back and reset the timing how do i keep the cams from turning? theres no hole to put a punch in to hold them in place well tightening the belt.

what did your transmission diagnostic say?
oil in spark plug galley is fixable.
all that oil is an excessive amount of blow by. not that good. possibly one of your main front and main rear oil seals is most likely the culprit for the blow by.

this would be easyer if i could hook her up to a computer but when reading everything i get ether AT-30 or AT-46. unless the timing being off by one notch really messes up acceleration that much. about a month ago i did a transmission service on her new trans fluid and filter. before the test drive last night she was reading that the trans fluid lvl was ware it was suppose to be when i got home it said it was over now its saying its half full. i just checked it... it could be valve body or primary regulator thats faulty AT-109

It does. Depending on how it shifted it can drastically increase engine heat OR it can drastically increase exhaust temps (if it's the exhaust cam); If it's the intake cam it can cause the intake valves to close too soon, choking the engine; or it can close it too late allowing a pulse to disrupt the incoming airflow, again choking the engine but in a very different way.


And quit whining about not having a computer to plug into the car... we're all about Atari here boy! :bigthumb:

lol Atari is fun makes things interesting. ok and yes both cams moved when we went to tighten the belt. now how much damage could happen if i cant get to it. i drive 20 or so miles to work all this week. also what is that tool called that keeps the cams in place well you tighten the belt. im only asking cause i dont see and hole to put a punch into to keep them from moving.

also many thanks to all the help!:bigthumb:

eh never did the timing on mine yet.. about to tackle a new CPS o ring this week...

how about a long breaker bar?

never thought of just putting a socet on and have some one hold it well tightening belt...

Everytime I messed with my timing belt, I pulled all slack out of the belt on the intake side, slipped the belt onto the gears (with them aligned properly), then let the tensioner take out all of the slack in the belt. Doing it this way allows all belt slack to be between the exhaust cam gear and crankshaft timing gear, meaning nothing will move while tensioning the belt.


Don't know if that's the right way to do things, but it's worked great for me and keeps it as a 1 man job

mm good post.

thank you. ill try this idea tomorrow before i go into work. also can you turn the cams by hand? and what kind of damage could happen driving her with the cams one notch off? i was told i can bend the pistons and or blow valves and i dont want to do that. way to much money to fix.

shitty idle.. poor acceleration. all the things that your experiencing now.
see above for explanation on what the cams do..


wilson is talking about the cps.
but moral of the story is.. IF things arent TDC and your timing is off.. you will have shitty engine proformance.. + hazard

You can stop the cams from spinning by just putting a 10mm socket on one of the rear timing belt cover's bolts (one of the four behind the cam gears) and rotate until one of the spokes binds on the socket/extension. Have someone hold it in place if you can't work with a wrench in each hand (sissy.).

Turn the crank one full rotation (DO NOT ROTATE VIA THE CAMS) to move any excess slack to the position between crank and exhaust cam. :bigthumb:

or if all else fails.. you can hit it with your purse...:p

I lol'd! :rofl2:

lol ok thats kinda funny!

anyway thanks for all the info!! it really helps and learned what not to DO! lol

ok the cams are off but the drive shaft is dead on so turn engine over till cams line up the take off the belt and turn the drive shaft till it lines up? or is there a better way of doing this?

oh and if i do work with one ratchet its not cause im a "sissy" its cause i would like to do this right. granted it should of been right the first time. but i should have this all fixed tomorrow before i leave for work at 4.

now what do you guys advise on my caliper issue? iv been thinking just saving up and putting all new ones on but if they can be fixed ill go that route cause the screeching is starting to annoy me lol.

ok if its one tooth off shouldn't she be back firing or idling wrong?? i dont want to be taring into this engine and reset the engine found out it wasnt it and have a chance to be late for work.

ok she is back up and running!!!! i bought new rear shocks to be put in next paycheck and will be fixing an oil leak behind the cams at the same time prob even flushing out the trany