pulling the oil pan is easy... very easy... it's the pulling of the engine that's annoying. ;)

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...leaking-2.html helpfull

Feel free to try it that way.... I don't want to hear it later when you whine about how hard it was and after the job and getting it all back together you realized the front and rear main seals are leaking too. ;)

I've pulled the pan by lifting the engine about a foot and a half and removing some of the lower obstructions... I haven't dropped the cross member and PS rack to get at it before... IMO all three are about as much labor as the others, but only one method of the three gives you good access to everything (including other things you should replace).

Since you're planning on pulling the motor, oil pan is easy to remove.

Keep in mind Toyota uses a flow-able gasket material for the pan gasket, so it's sticky on there, lots of gasket material removal once it's off. I have used the fel-pro oil pan gasket in the past and never noticed any issues with it, but I'd recommend you use the original stuff for reassembly. Must be some reason for no gasket on it, right?

Consider yourself lucky... I've read a lot of posts by people asking why their rebuild is leaking at the pan even with a new pan gasket. I have no idea why it happens, but most people who try to run them end up having to redo it. Either use Toyota's FIPG, Honda's FIPG (can't remember the name but it's supposedly miraculous stuff, I know a lot of Honda haters who swear by it), or use "the Right Stuff" (comes in a cheese whiz can). "the Right Stuff" is the least expensive and has worked VERY well for me in every situation where I've used it.

Also, make sure that the pan's flange and the mounting surface of the block are SPOTLESS to ensure a strong leakproof seal... tip: it's difficult to keep the oil from running across the block's surface if the engine is right side up.

wanted to check the front and main cam seals. . those could be my internal.

Just another angle on the engine bay smoking & oil loss... It's a Turbo right? How's the turbo feed/return unions doing for leakage? Don't think the 2 lower ones on the block would hit the 'zorst but I know from bitter experience that the one where the feed/return bolts up under the turbo drops lube so that it hits the downpipe when you're on the move (this can be accompanied by a puddle of lube on the floor under the car too, if it's not all getting burnt off).

I was losing a fair old amount to that leak (so badly was it covering the downpipe and smoking up, I made a temporary shield in case it caused a fire!) and was about to bite the bullet & pull the turbo out AGAIN to replace that 10p paper gasket when I got splatted by the BMW driver.

Just a thought & it's well worth actually checking the I/C as described a few months after cleaning, before pulling the motor in case the loss is purely external. It's sometimes surprising how much is pouring out of a motor without making an appreciable stain on the driveway.

so let me get this correct before i start pulling parts.

to remove the cps I align the cams to tdc then pull the cps. re-allign the cps when reinstalling and just make sure I have my timing to 10 degrees with a timing light.. am i missing anything?

just a side question about the front and rear oil seals.. hard to replace w/o pulling the engine?

correction. im losing about 1qrt a month or so. every 4 weeks or w/e on my driveway. for some reason when i posted that I was under the impression that my dipstick measured 4qrts.

i have the same problem with my car is it an easy fix?