smoking from engine / oil loss
 

high guys problem with smoking on left side of engine twords the front and oil loss.

I removed my intercooler pipes and found a small amount of oil leading into the intercooler. also a trace amount in the accordion hose. and the 3000 pipe. so I know its time for my turbo to be rebuilt. But I don't see my turbo with only showing trace amounts of oil leakage creating a plume of smoke creeping from under my hood whenever I shut my car down.

smoke is comming from left side (turbo side) of the engine Near the Front behind the thermostat housing. any suggestions on were to go from here for proper diagnostics and replacement. Im leaning twords blown oil seals? any post you have bookmarked please pass my way as I am currently searching through the pages.

can we also go over the possibility of a clogged pcv? But I don't really see any of my air hoses being clogged. its possible tho.

as always, thanks for any input and guidance.
thanks in advance
Green7mgte.

that would be the right side actually. it's decided from the perspective of the seated occupant. ;)

the outside leak could be coming from the distributor.

actually, oil exiting into the intake indicates the pcv is doing its job... if there is a lot you may have excessive blow by.

meaning the Cam positioning sensor? maybe the packing in there is worn?
that location is just about were the smoke is coming from? would that leak oil? the packing or the O ring?

Sorry, wasn't thinking... for this dialogue they're the same though... The dizzy and CPS both have an outer seal and both can also leak internally (not something that's easy to remedy). Take the cap off the CPS to see if there's oil on the inside which is escaping through the weep in the bottom of the CPS housing. The O ring I recommend just replacing, you've got to pull the CPS to check it anyway and it's DIRT CHEAP.

SOME oil in the intake is normal from both the PCV system and from the turbo's oil seal... there are ALWAYS oil vapors being carried with the blowby gasses being removed by the PCV system and there is ALWAYS oil escaping the turbo's oil seals. HOWEVER, this oil should not accumulate in any appreciable amount in a few months time. On an older MKIII I'd say that more than a table spoon of oil drained out of the intercooler after cleaning it out three months prior is way too much, BUT still plenty driveable. If you're seeing a loss of half a quart between fuel fillings I bet there's a decent amount of that sitting in the Ic and it's time for an overhaul.

I do see about half a quart or more between every couple fill ups. what do you mean overhaul? a good IC cleaning or an engine rebuild.. gasp*
I can see my oil dripping from the bottom of my engine. Left side beneath the manifold twords the front. bottom of the engine, right were the block meats the oil pan. could this be an internal leak from the cps
whats a recommended step along with check for leaking in the cam sensor.

You need to fix ALL external leaks before you can be sure how much you're loosing internally... BUT the amount which collects in the IC is a good indicator as to where things are.

I meant a rebuild when I said overhaul... shouldn't have used that term, it's vague.

hmm. well a rebuild has been on my mind for some time.

i only see trace amounts of oil. less then a 1/4 tsp consisting of all trace found. But I do loose about 4 quarts every 3 weeks or so.. :(
so for cleaning the Ic is there some sort of detergent? or would a good squirting with some distilled water or the garden hose work?

dizzy.. ='s distributor. dur. its been a long day.

4 quarts in 3 weeks!!!???! :eek2::eek2::eek2:


Damn, that's too much for your average sick engine...


Clean the IC with gasoline or kerosene, then filter it and use it in the lawnmower. ;) Works very well... oh, not the kerosene... the gasoline works well in a lawnmower.

I need to touch on a couple other leaks while we are here.

as i mentioned I see a drip coming from were the block meets the oil pan. perhaps the oil pan gasket is leaking? is that common? is it a hard fix? I heard something about the removing of the oil pan is a pain in the arse. true?

what about the upper and lower timing belt over gaskets?
forgive me if im a tad scattered. just trying to find all possible suspects before I order parts and mid breakdown only to say "shit!" i need this!

so to recap. I definitely see a leak.. coming from the above mentioned.. mixed with a fair amount of smoking makes up for my oil loss. now to pin point the issue, cps o ring. check, will replace that and hopefully see no smoking. Did the #3 valve cover fix, still see some pooling, might just be from the plugs had excess oil in them maybe its coming from the valve stem seals. idk either way I wish to address the 2 above problems. good solid lead on the smoking now want to plug the dripping. any suggestions or places to look?

pulling the oil pan is easy... very easy... it's the pulling of the engine that's annoying. ;)

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...leaking-2.html helpfull

Feel free to try it that way.... I don't want to hear it later when you whine about how hard it was and after the job and getting it all back together you realized the front and rear main seals are leaking too. ;)

I've pulled the pan by lifting the engine about a foot and a half and removing some of the lower obstructions... I haven't dropped the cross member and PS rack to get at it before... IMO all three are about as much labor as the others, but only one method of the three gives you good access to everything (including other things you should replace).

Since you're planning on pulling the motor, oil pan is easy to remove.

Keep in mind Toyota uses a flow-able gasket material for the pan gasket, so it's sticky on there, lots of gasket material removal once it's off. I have used the fel-pro oil pan gasket in the past and never noticed any issues with it, but I'd recommend you use the original stuff for reassembly. Must be some reason for no gasket on it, right?

Consider yourself lucky... I've read a lot of posts by people asking why their rebuild is leaking at the pan even with a new pan gasket. I have no idea why it happens, but most people who try to run them end up having to redo it. Either use Toyota's FIPG, Honda's FIPG (can't remember the name but it's supposedly miraculous stuff, I know a lot of Honda haters who swear by it), or use "the Right Stuff" (comes in a cheese whiz can). "the Right Stuff" is the least expensive and has worked VERY well for me in every situation where I've used it.

Also, make sure that the pan's flange and the mounting surface of the block are SPOTLESS to ensure a strong leakproof seal... tip: it's difficult to keep the oil from running across the block's surface if the engine is right side up.

wanted to check the front and main cam seals. . those could be my internal.

Just another angle on the engine bay smoking & oil loss... It's a Turbo right? How's the turbo feed/return unions doing for leakage? Don't think the 2 lower ones on the block would hit the 'zorst but I know from bitter experience that the one where the feed/return bolts up under the turbo drops lube so that it hits the downpipe when you're on the move (this can be accompanied by a puddle of lube on the floor under the car too, if it's not all getting burnt off).

I was losing a fair old amount to that leak (so badly was it covering the downpipe and smoking up, I made a temporary shield in case it caused a fire!) and was about to bite the bullet & pull the turbo out AGAIN to replace that 10p paper gasket when I got splatted by the BMW driver.

Just a thought & it's well worth actually checking the I/C as described a few months after cleaning, before pulling the motor in case the loss is purely external. It's sometimes surprising how much is pouring out of a motor without making an appreciable stain on the driveway.

so let me get this correct before i start pulling parts.

to remove the cps I align the cams to tdc then pull the cps. re-allign the cps when reinstalling and just make sure I have my timing to 10 degrees with a timing light.. am i missing anything?

just a side question about the front and rear oil seals.. hard to replace w/o pulling the engine?

correction. im losing about 1qrt a month or so. every 4 weeks or w/e on my driveway. for some reason when i posted that I was under the impression that my dipstick measured 4qrts.

i have the same problem with my car is it an easy fix?

well i purchased a new cam positioning sensor packing and 0 ring from toyota.
waiting on the arrival of my accordion hose so i can replace that at the same time


side note
Cre as i went back and read the snake oil thread it looked like my post was promoting it. naw, big shocker he had some other sort of malfunction. just surprised it held as long.. just like stop leak for the rad. yea it seals up the leak.. along with abunch of other crap.
I do not promote nor use any sort of "magic fix" additive. nor should any of you.. I do however keep a can of fix a flat in my hatch just in case..

acouple other concerns is removing the cps. I never attempted to do a timing job before and not exactly sure on the procedure. the main front and rear oil seals probably need changed over also. but I cant really see any other external leaks but will go over the possibility of those. Hoping its not one of the oil hoses in the back of the engine. those arent ezily replaced.

There are none !

I was going to say "wtf?".

The heater/bypass hoses possibly, how could they be mistaken for oil though?

Anyway just a point on the cps alignment, as it's already known correct & the only reason for removal is the o-ring it can be better for peace of mind to first-: mark the position of the CPS body relative to the head & secondly to remove the 3 screws and the black CPS lid & note/retain the position of the trigger wheel in relation to the sensors inside. Even one tooth out would be obvious this way. ;)

naw i know those hoses. changed them myself.
I heard mention to something in back lower half of the engine. didn't really know anything else about it.

And neither did the person who was talking... ;) Don't worry, I assure you the rear oil hoses are just as they were meant to be. :bigthumb: (absent)

my accordion hose came in today.. smells wierd. mmm molded plastic.
i have an abscessed tooth so im in a large amount of pain atm. pills help so does my antibiotic but will start work on the cps Monday.

I was waiting for my new elbow to meter hose to come in because you may recall it crumbled in my hands when i removed it to fix the 90 degree hose. some silicone and electrical tape later I got it sealed and in place. But wasn't taking that thing off again till my new one arrived..
so heres to it..

any more information about removing the cps. do i or don't I have to get TDC? or is it just a matter of marking it were it is in position atm.
thanks again.

I'd assume you could mark it and leave it as is, provided the crankshaft/camshaft doesn't move at all. If it were me, I'd just put it to TDC so that if it DOES move, it's no big deal

If you're not working on anything else just marking it is fine.... Just make sure the mark is CLEAR and won't rub off!

good good..

I put my lex afm onto my new accordion hose.. cre you were right.. heating up the hose than soaping the afm allowed it to pop right in.. cool.

very good, Im going to get that going atm. probably waite till wedensday to do the cps so my buddy.. (certified chevy tech) (we all cant be perfect..lol) can come over and help me out..

but yes If i were to do it myself Id make my mark clear on the cams than on the cps its self to verify all alignments were in order. thanks for the information guys. Ill let you know how it goes.