Stripped Jumped Timing Belt

[nailhead432]

Do you have the specs and torque sequence available to you to install the cams? Its not wise to just unbolt them in any order. Just use the reverse proceedure to remove the cams as you would to install them. Clear as mud? Basically, loosen the outer most caps first, alternating back and forth. And don't just unscrew the bolts all the way, do it in stages throughout the entire process. This would be similar to unbolting the head. This is the "proper" way to do it, and the theory is that by doing this, the cam will lift up evenly against the cam journals and prevent gouging.
Now personally, I've used a 3/8" impact gun and just hit each bolt (still going back and forth from one end to the other) and have never had a problem. Then again, I'm willing to suffer the consequences if something were to happen (only on my car though, never a customer's). Takes less than 10 seconds and I'll have the cam laying on my tool box (in a clean, safe place).
I didn't get a chance to look at your tool that you posted a hyperlink up to inorder to replace the valve springs, but I will tell you that Snapon wants $150 for it (made in China, @#%#@, but thats another story), so $85 doesn't sound too bad if it will do the job. I think the valve springs from Toyota list for like $5 or $6 each, not bad if you only need one or two.
My Supra happens to have a lot of blow-by and really isn't worth fixing (that engine), but I might still pull it apart for the hell of it just to see what caused it to break. Might also be noteworthy to get your hands on a boreascope and make sure that the piston or the valve has not suffered too badly with the broken spring.
Good luck on that one, keep everyone posted on your adventure. I'm sure the pics are helping out a lot of ppl that are reading your threads, keep it up.

[907mge]

Follow the TSRM and review the diagrams on the link they will tell you what you need. If you want to be driving for it for a while and not till the next brake down you need to start working on all the following:

water pump(its right there)
plugs
wires
dist. cap and rotor
all those hoses(coolant and vaccuum,big and little)
reseal oil plugs
new valve cover gaskets
change the oil and coolant


You may have already done some of these but they are just suggestions.

[batmmannn]

Thanks Nailhead. What do you use to hold the cam shaft. I see they use a special tool in the book but I guess any thing that will hold that wheel will work.

Somehow I either lost my ac belt tension pulley or its put aside somewhere. Can pull from the other car if it does not turn up right away. Wondering if it was missing from the car but I think I remember pulling it. Not sure.

Anyway, Auto Zone finally came through with my timing belt. Had the timing cover bay ready and clean when it came.

Used some fine sand paper and tapping on the gaskets with a hammer to clean the gasket material off the plenum. Found my finger nails useful to pic off some of the harder gasket in the tighter areas. Though I now have the dirtiest nastiest fingernails in the East...lol

I am putting her back together now. I did some cleaning but will try to steam power wash the motor at some later point. What are your thoughts on that?

New plug wires to route, the plenum to put back on, radiator....etc and then she should be running. I was careful to sand the ground location on the block before reattaching it. The timing belt as you well know is hard to stretch on, my trick was to hook the drivers side cam sprocket one tooth tighter and then pull it toward the drivers side with a wrench getting the belt as tight as possible and then pulling as hard as you can working the belt over the passenger cam sprocket. It is a bear but that worked for me. I didn't have to pry with a large screwdriver or do anything that would have compromised the new belt. It helped when I took the large bolt out of the idler pulley. I attached the spring and then checked the tension to be even from both spans on the belt and then torqued down the idler pulley bolt.

Not too concerned about the AC right now till I see how well it does. Thought seriously about pulling the compressor for new seals but thought twice about it because I would have to tape closed the lines. Made better sense to wait, pull the one on my Black Supra and rework that, then put it on the 5 speed. Then after that do it again for the Black Auto Supra. I am sure it must be bad after 7 years of sitting.

So tomorrow I will see if I can get her fired up. Not much left to do. Could use a good set of tires though. One tire cracked after driving and went flat so maybe the others will as well. I have fog lights to buy, Speakers are all blown, drivers auto lock switch is broke or jammed. Over head lights don't work but all in good time.

The tires on the Black Supra look better so I might be borrowing those as well. Less tread but No cracking as of yet. Fog Lights were taken from the Red one for the Black one years ago. Guess they are coming back home to the Red one.

New valve cover gaskets are on, front seal is in, Timing belt is on and adjusted at top dead center alignment. Just a matter of hooking it all back up now.

Hopefully I will have a runner soon! Here are 2 new pics.... Scott

[907mge]

Strap wrench on the cam gears. And I would not steam clean a engine that old since the moisture will go into every electical connection.

[batmmannn]

Yes I was looking at the water pump, I will call and price it. I am on a low budget so if it aint broke don't fix it is what I am doing. Oil change and new rad fluid is for sure. I might flush the system, but not sure how to do that except just run it though the rad with it open. What is the proper way to flush a supra cooling system? I did do the valve cover gaskets, reseal oil plugs? You mean oil drain plugs? What do you mean by reseal oil plugs? I found a cat back alluminum system on ebay for $149.00 I know it's not the best and I am not sure I want a noisy muffler. Being that I have 2 of these cars I might do the Auto Zone lifetime free replacement cat back exhaust just so I never have to buy a muffler again for either car. Thanks 907 I will try to find one of those wrenches, Scott

[907mge]

The oil plugs are the four plugs on the top of the engine that also hold that spark plug cover down. If you look they are probably leaking. On mine I took them out and did away with the cover and sealed each with rtv sealant. Its been working quite well.

Just mentioned the water pump since it is right there with the t belt off and not that expensive.

And as far as the coolant goes I would just drain the old and add new for now.

[batmmannn]

Thanks for that info. I was about to put the plenum on. Anyone know what size that huge allan head is on those oil plugs? What do you use? A Big allan wrench?... and where do you find one that big? Thanks

[907mge]

Well since I happen to have a cyl. head laying down stairs I checked for you. What I used is a 14mm allen socket for 1/2 drive. You should be able to get one at your auto zone.

[batmmannn]

Ok, Thanks knowing the size makes it easy to go and pick one up. I appreciate it. It will give me a chance to get under that plate and clean all the grime and oil out.