Valve Head Noise LOUD TAPPING

batmmannn · 05-15-2010, 04:03 AM

Oh Ok yeah I know the cam gears now I was thinking of something else. Yeah, I did the timing belt on this car I can't remember how long before the problem started thats why I thought maybe it had jumped. It was running real rough, I think the plug wires I just found I bought back then but when I went to do the job I was discouraged because of the intake and how you have to remove it to get the plug wires run correctly. No way to feed those through I saw with the upper plenum on. That thing must be cake to take off though. I was thinking of a thread about the fuel cam sensor. Where is that on the car? ....? Thanks so much for your help! Hey wait a minute all you have to do is slip the rubber head off the distributer side of the plug wire and feed them through. I am a dumb ass.... like Popeye would say ...."Garshked!" lol

turbonicsperformance · 05-15-2010, 05:02 AM

its not just valve tap or lifters and your timing won't cause a noise just a rough idle or sluggish condition it really sounds like you broke a valve spring but only one since it is a very slow tick sound were you revving it when this noise first developed and does it become less apparent or more when you rev? also i dont think your ignition timing would cause this without ALOT of other signals (hard slow start, overheating, cracking pistons, and alot faster noise) but imho it is a broken valve spring you should pull the valve covers and check them its not that hard of a job just remove intake where it splits and take off the valve covers the wires can stay in and everything

basic rule is a noise at half engine speed is valve noise or cam noise
full engine speed is ignition sound "arcing" or rod/main detonation etc.

batmmannn · 05-15-2010, 05:09 AM

I will have to see if it gets less with high revs. Would this damage the cam all this slapping? Can the spring be replaced with the heads on? Thanks, Scott

wstanek · 05-15-2010, 01:50 PM

that's making quite the ruckus. lol =D anyways somthing is definitly wront in the valve train and also definitly not a rod knock.

batmmannn · 05-15-2010, 05:42 PM

I am trying to get the valve covers off. I am trying to remove the upper plenum, I think it is called. How do you get to those lower bolts that go into the manifold? There are some electrical structures there and in the center that I am not sure how best to remopve will post pics later tonight. Thanks

I uploaded a video with questions. Thanks,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-grOEjS-DU

cre · 05-15-2010, 07:09 PM

The front electrical connection to the round canister on the side of the throttle body is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). You don't need to remove it, just unplug it. To get to the two lower bolts on the "Y" pipe (as it is commonly called) you need to remove the two black metal brackets and then use two extensions to reach them. An extension with a "wobble" built in helps get a better grip.

The part they're saying to pop off with a screw driver is the rod which runs up the the throttle pulley/lever on the side of the throttle body.

cre · 05-15-2010, 07:22 PM

While you've got the throttle body off, might as well go ahead and check that the TPS is properly adjusted too: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ction=FI&P=100

Yes, you can replace a spring with the head still on the engine. Pull all the spark plugs, remove the cam, remove the bucket and shim of the bad valve, disconnect the battery and remove the EFI fuse. Now rotate the crank until the piston of the cylinder with the bad valve spring is all the way at the bottom. Start feeding in some very soft and VERY long rope through the spark plug hole. Once you've got a good amount in there and can't feed in any more rotate the crank again while someone pulls on the bad valve's stem lightly. This rope will push the valve up and closed and with enough pressure that you'll be able to do the tapping needed to free the keepers. When you're done you just back the crank off and pull the rope out.

aamt07 · 11-10-2010, 05:47 PM

Its a rod. Mine sounded the same way but only right after it fired up it made the noise (just like yours) for maybe 1 second. On the break down of the engine it was all chewed up and had 2 bent valves

Suprasexy · 11-10-2010, 07:26 PM

Our engines don't have pushrods, we've got dual overhead cams

bioskyline · 11-10-2010, 09:06 PM

sounds like lack of oil, my 200sx made that noise for a week before it seized solid.

05-15-2010, 04:03 AM	#1
batmmannn 12psi boost Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 320	Cam Gear Oh Ok yeah I know the cam gears now I was thinking of something else. Yeah, I did the timing belt on this car I can't remember how long before the problem started thats why I thought maybe it had jumped. It was running real rough, I think the plug wires I just found I bought back then but when I went to do the job I was discouraged because of the intake and how you have to remove it to get the plug wires run correctly. No way to feed those through I saw with the upper plenum on. That thing must be cake to take off though. I was thinking of a thread about the fuel cam sensor. Where is that on the car? ....? Thanks so much for your help! Hey wait a minute all you have to do is slip the rubber head off the distributer side of the plug wire and feed them through. I am a dumb ass.... like Popeye would say ...."Garshked!" lol __________________ 1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile! Last edited by batmmannn; 05-15-2010 at 04:35 AM.

05-15-2010, 05:09 AM	#3
batmmannn 12psi boost Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 320	Ok I will have to see if it gets less with high revs. Would this damage the cam all this slapping? Can the spring be replaced with the heads on? Thanks, Scott __________________ 1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile! Last edited by batmmannn; 05-15-2010 at 05:11 AM.

05-15-2010, 05:42 PM	#5
batmmannn 12psi boost Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 320	removing Valve covers I am trying to get the valve covers off. I am trying to remove the upper plenum, I think it is called. How do you get to those lower bolts that go into the manifold? There are some electrical structures there and in the center that I am not sure how best to remopve will post pics later tonight. Thanks I uploaded a video with questions. Thanks, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-grOEjS-DU __________________ 1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile! Last edited by batmmannn; 05-15-2010 at 06:35 PM.

05-15-2010, 07:09 PM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The front electrical connection to the round canister on the side of the throttle body is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). You don't need to remove it, just unplug it. To get to the two lower bolts on the "Y" pipe (as it is commonly called) you need to remove the two black metal brackets and then use two extensions to reach them. An extension with a "wobble" built in helps get a better grip. The part they're saying to pop off with a screw driver is the rod which runs up the the throttle pulley/lever on the side of the throttle body. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

05-15-2010, 07:22 PM	#7
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	While you've got the throttle body off, might as well go ahead and check that the TPS is properly adjusted too: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ction=FI&P=100 Yes, you can replace a spring with the head still on the engine. Pull all the spark plugs, remove the cam, remove the bucket and shim of the bad valve, disconnect the battery and remove the EFI fuse. Now rotate the crank until the piston of the cylinder with the bad valve spring is all the way at the bottom. Start feeding in some very soft and VERY long rope through the spark plug hole. Once you've got a good amount in there and can't feed in any more rotate the crank again while someone pulls on the bad valve's stem lightly. This rope will push the valve up and closed and with enough pressure that you'll be able to do the tapping needed to free the keepers. When you're done you just back the crank off and pull the rope out. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

05-15-2010, 05:02 AM	#2
turbonicsperformance 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: sarasota fl Posts: 194	its not just valve tap or lifters and your timing won't cause a noise just a rough idle or sluggish condition it really sounds like you broke a valve spring but only one since it is a very slow tick sound were you revving it when this noise first developed and does it become less apparent or more when you rev? also i dont think your ignition timing would cause this without ALOT of other signals (hard slow start, overheating, cracking pistons, and alot faster noise) but imho it is a broken valve spring you should pull the valve covers and check them its not that hard of a job just remove intake where it splits and take off the valve covers the wires can stay in and everything basic rule is a noise at half engine speed is valve noise or cam noise full engine speed is ignition sound "arcing" or rod/main detonation etc.

05-15-2010, 01:50 PM	#4
wstanek 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Stoney Creek Posts: 178	that's making quite the ruckus. lol =D anyways somthing is definitly wront in the valve train and also definitly not a rod knock.

11-10-2010, 05:47 PM	#8
aamt07 Stock Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: houston, Tx Posts: 24	Its a rod. Mine sounded the same way but only right after it fired up it made the noise (just like yours) for maybe 1 second. On the break down of the engine it was all chewed up and had 2 bent valves __________________ 91 TURBO TARGA TOP 5 SPEED PEARL WHITE.... UNDER CONSTRUCTION... Last edited by aamt07; 11-10-2010 at 08:42 PM.

11-10-2010, 07:26 PM	#9
Suprasexy Stock Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alberta Posts: 13	Our engines don't have pushrods, we've got dual overhead cams

11-10-2010, 09:06 PM	#10
bioskyline 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: powell river bc Posts: 120	sounds like lack of oil, my 200sx made that noise for a week before it seized solid. __________________ 87 silver turbo targa, bone ass stock (for now)

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