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-   -   what did you pay for your mk3? (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/16800-what-did-you-pay-for-your-mk3.html)

Grandavi 03-27-2012 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phat_toaster (Post 101820)
I just spent $4100 for an '89 Turbo Sport Roof, 146K with no rust, nearly perfect body (except that the front bumper was repainted by an ape) and almost flawless interior. Of course there are a few cosmetic blemishes inside and out, but still incredible for a 23 year-old car. Engine runs really smooth and has a few nice upgrades (HKS BOV, 3" Magnaflow exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, etc.) It was a California car, where I picked it up and drove it over 700 miles in two days with absolutely no issues. I'm thrilled with my new toy!

:bigthumb:
If you have a rust free MKIII, with no huge bangs, ripples or dents.. the rest is just fluff. : ) Nice find!
now.. pics or it didnt happen.. lol

phat_toaster 03-27-2012 01:50 PM

Haha! Pics coming very soon. I need to wax and detail it first though. All the bugs and grime from a major road trip don't make for a great first impression.

supraheelfan 03-27-2012 10:09 PM

1st 87 turbo supra I paid $1,640 with leaky body.

I paid $300 for my 2nd 87 n/a "twopra".

Piggy808 03-29-2012 12:07 AM

1st- 1987 Maroon int/ext :) NA-5speed T-top-All stock under 100K miles- $1200.

Original Paint was fading on hood but the rest was pretty shiny after a nice buff. Spent about $200 on pacesetter catback w/ flowmaster (magnaflow?) catalytic converter came with it. Sold it.

2nd-1991 blue int/ white exterior 7mgte-5speed. $1400

Front end damage. Had Mines ECU, 57 trim Ct26, rebuilt engine with stock components, Cometic HG, Ksport coilovers, cusco sway/tower strut stuffs, 3" full exhaust setup, Hyper ground kit, bunch of gauges...i deleted most of them as was kinda cluttered. Came with RSS rims-

3rd-1991 Blue int/white exterior 7mge-5speed $300

Swapped everything I could from my 2nd supra to 3rd. Spent $400 on new brakes (premium crossdrilled/slotted) and pads from R1concepts. Damn good shit. Would highly recommend getting them if you have a tight budget. Would post up pics but only the engine compartment looks good...the rest...:frown:

pandrade 03-29-2012 06:00 PM

traded a boat i got for free for a motorcycle and the motorcycle for my supra
87 turbo 5 speed

Doat91 03-30-2012 08:50 AM

What do you guys think of a 91 mk3 turbo targa top 5spd everything in excellent condition, motor is fine, interior is great, tranny is fine, 80k original miles, only damage is the scuff and hole in the front bumper and a small ding behind the drive side door for $3,200?

phat_toaster 04-03-2012 03:36 PM

As long as there's no rust, the head gasket is not shot, clean title, and no major body damage, $3,200 sounds like a really good deal. Take it from somebody who was on the market for many months before buying one.

Doat91 04-03-2012 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phat_toaster (Post 102018)
As long as there's no rust, the head gasket is not shot, clean title, and no major body damage, $3,200 sounds like a really good deal. Take it from somebody who was on the market for many months before buying one.

Thanks I plan on setting up an appointment with a Toyota dealer near the area and have them check it out.

Grandavi 04-03-2012 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doat91 (Post 101909)
What do you guys think of a 91 mk3 turbo targa top 5spd everything in excellent condition, motor is fine, interior is great, tranny is fine, 80k original miles, only damage is the scuff and hole in the front bumper and a small ding behind the drive side door for $3,200?

I call that a super deal. Just get the engine looked at closely.. everything else is age/wear and tear. Plus.. it all depends on your plans for the car.

Make sure you put your hands down the rear quarter panels (there are access panels in the hatch area) and check the condition of the metal along the wheel wells and inside the quarter panels. Dirt+Water = rust holes which will eventually pop off the quarters if not given attention asap. Water can also come in via the brake light seals and hatch seal, but that usually lands up in the spare tire well (which you need to see WITHOUT the spare tire). A bit of blue from a cold engine start can mean a simple valve seal shrinkage which is common for the 7M engine.. and normally I wouldn't say this, but I have had 3 gas tanks leak so far, so it would be nice to see it with at least 65% fuel in the tank.

3200 is a good buy if the car is fairly straight and runs nice. Its repairs which can kill you financially depending on your level of expertise.

Good luck!

Doat91 04-03-2012 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandavi (Post 102020)
I call that a super deal. Just get the engine looked at closely.. everything else is age/wear and tear. Plus.. it all depends on your plans for the car.

Make sure you put your hands down the rear quarter panels (there are access panels in the hatch area) and check the condition of the metal along the wheel wells and inside the quarter panels. Dirt+Water = rust holes which will eventually pop off the quarters if not given attention asap. Water can also come in via the brake light seals and hatch seal, but that usually lands up in the spare tire well (which you need to see WITHOUT the spare tire). A bit of blue from a cold engine start can mean a simple valve seal shrinkage which is common for the 7M engine.. and normally I wouldn't say this, but I have had 3 gas tanks leak so far, so it would be nice to see it with at least 65% fuel in the tank.

3200 is a good buy if the car is fairly straight and runs nice. Its repairs which can kill you financially depending on your level of expertise.

Good luck!

Thanks for the tips I'll be sure to check that out, my friend has worked on this car and assures me it is solid I only want to change the head gasket to prevent it from blowing on me while driving somewhere. I plan on just getting the car to look clean and under 400hp so nothing crazy just simple mods that won't affect reliability too much but it seems that to reach about 400hp I'd need to get bigger injectors and an AFM since I would have to turn up the boost. I'd only turn up the boost for when I need it though otherwise it will be at stock level boost for just normal driving. I'll make a build thread and ask more technical questions in there about suspension and try to do the work myself but if I can't do it I know a guy who owns a shop that works on race motors and cars.

Grandavi 04-03-2012 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doat91 (Post 102022)
Thanks for the tips I'll be sure to check that out, my friend has worked on this car and assures me it is solid I only want to change the head gasket to prevent it from blowing on me while driving somewhere. I plan on just getting the car to look clean and under 400hp so nothing crazy just simple mods that won't affect reliability too much but it seems that to reach about 400hp I'd need to get bigger injectors and an AFM since I would have to turn up the boost. I'd only turn up the boost for when I need it though otherwise it will be at stock level boost for just normal driving. I'll make a build thread and ask more technical questions in there about suspension and try to do the work myself but if I can't do it I know a guy who owns a shop that works on race motors and cars.

I wouldnt do the head if it doesnt need it... Maintenance is better. Do a leak test (better than a simple compression test). Just because 7M's can blow headgaskets doesnt mean they will.. Proper torque, proper build = fine engine. Why fix something that isnt broken? : )

Doat91 04-03-2012 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandavi (Post 102024)
I wouldnt do the head if it doesnt need it... Maintenance is better. Do a leak test (better than a simple compression test). Just because 7M's can blow headgaskets doesnt mean they will.. Proper torque, proper build = fine engine. Why fix something that isnt broken? : )

Lol I get that but I want to change the gasket and get ARP bolts, I mean when the head gasket blows you won't know until it happens right? then you are screwed and have to tow the car home I just don't want to have to deal with that again because I am usually about half hour, all highway, at least from my house when I hang out with friends, damn Houston is so vast lol.

Grandavi 04-03-2012 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doat91 (Post 102027)
Lol I get that but I want to change the gasket and get ARP bolts, I mean when the head gasket blows you won't know until it happens right? then you are screwed and have to tow the car home I just don't want to have to deal with that again because I am usually about half hour, all highway, at least from my house when I hang out with friends, damn Houston is so vast lol.

Generally speaking, you cant simply pull the head and change the gasket (not like the American bigblocks.. :p). If there are any small leakages already occuring, I would advise against putting a headgasket on without first prepping the block/head surfaces precisely.. otherwise.. your opening a can of worms you may not want to. (Of course.. I am not a true mechanic, but from all my discussions and readings, this part of the 7M is the one that has to be done right or prepare for failure. Done right = success and longevity)

Doat91 04-03-2012 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandavi (Post 102028)
Generally speaking, you cant simply pull the head and change the gasket (not like the American bigblocks.. :p). If there are any small leakages already occuring, I would advise against putting a headgasket on without first prepping the block/head surfaces precisely.. otherwise.. your opening a can of worms you may not want to. (Of course.. I am not a true mechanic, but from all my discussions and readings, this part of the 7M is the one that has to be done right or prepare for failure. Done right = success and longevity)

Yea my mechanic would inspect the block and head and machine it to make it smooth and precise, which is another reason why I am thinking of just getting a metal head gasket since he will do all of that.

Grandavi 04-03-2012 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doat91 (Post 102029)
Yea my mechanic would inspect the block and head and machine it to make it smooth and precise, which is another reason why I am thinking of just getting a metal head gasket since he will do all of that.


All good, just make sure you know the $$ involved prior to cracking it open. I dont know about there, but here it isn't cheap :)

Doat91 04-03-2012 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandavi (Post 102030)
All good, just make sure you know the $$ involved prior to cracking it open. I dont know about there, but here it isn't cheap :)

Yea my guy gave me a rough quote of $1500 plus parts

Shore Guy 04-04-2012 11:58 AM

Price for MK3
 
Bought my 1988 N/A for $1500.00. It did not run well at first due to electrical issues. Spent winter tracing wires and it works perfect. Second year on the road and no issues to report. Car came from Florida has power everything, leather seats, Targa roof.
Guy I bought car from threw in parts car with a good engine and trans that works, body shot but all lights, mirrors, moldings good when I need a part. Very very very happy with ride and look forward to adding touches to make it mine.

Awyman18 04-04-2012 01:00 PM

spent $6k on mine, kinda a bad deal but it was the only one i could find in ohio that was 1. turbo, 2. not modded out the yingyang 3. not rusty and 4. clean as fuuuuuuuuuuuuuh. Bought with about 96k on it, im the 3rd owner, first owner was an old man who bought it brand new, had it from 1990 to 2006, and only put 67k miles on it. 2nd owner was a stupid kid that is very ignorant. Garaged every winter (even if it was a lie, the sight of no rust or very minimal rust speaks for itself) and very clean. Ive put idk how much in it...lol

Crop 04-09-2012 11:56 PM

$1000.00 for my 1987 7mgte targa.. with 54k on original motor..got it from a co worker who had to sell it..sittin on ugly 17" chromes with brand new tires, lowered all around with eibachs 1". strut tower brace all around. (tems removed).came with a (demon) fiberglass bumper with bracket and hell fog lights in box, 4 brembro crosssdrilled/slotted rotors (in boxes) new rear sway bar... 3" stainless exhaust no muffler, just cat (nasty sounding), ..flex-a-lite radiator/elec fan combo..k&n air filter, (rest of the motors stock with ct26 turbo). been fun working on this so far....im spending MUCH more than i thought id be...i was just going to flip it, but now im keeping her until i feel im rdy...shes just toooo much fun to play with.


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