Okay, well I guess I was looking for a good excuse to a redo, there are some things left hanging. Should I do anything with the injectors while I am there? The car sat several years but it ran. Any other stuff I should take care of let me know, for sure i will take care of the exhaust manifold gasket. I really liked Honda's Turbo CX's. My family owned a Honda dealership in the 1980's and early 90's.

Is there a section of the online manual that covers removing the intake manifold? Knowing what is necessary to remove in order to do the job. I have looked for it but do not see it. Do I separate the manifold assembly or remove it as one piece? Does the alternator need to come off ? You get the idea, I just am used to motorcycle factory shop manuals. Thanks

Hey, got your PM... sorry, been exhausted and busy...


Have you checked for diagnostic error codes?

An intake leak may be causing the high idle, but I'd also check to see if the TPS is properly aligned and that the throttle plate is closing ALL THE WAY when the throttle is released. The throttle bypass screw should also be tightened all the way... it's not used, but for some reason everyone's gotta screw with it (pardon the pun ;) ).

If the car is sluggish until around 4000RPM you should inspect the ACIS system, but it should be kicking in well before 4800RPM unless the TPS is WAY off. The ACIS system modulates the intake's air flow using a butterfly in the middle of the surge tank. If you look down between the forks of the Y pipe you'll see a metal can style diaphragm that's connected to a rod entering the surge tank... this should move when you rev the engine high.

What you need to remove to pull the intake's going to depend on just how much you're planning on pulling... the only trick bit is the coolant hoses which route through the throttle body and through the idle speed control valve and back under the lower intake plenum. Most of the bolt locations and torque specs are in the TSRM under the "Engine Mechanical" section.

No worries CRE, thanks for the additional input. It is great all the solid info that has been given. The code was a 52 and the KS is unplugged and incorrectly routed. In order to connect it and to check all these other things given I am going to disassemble down to the valve cover. I think that the ex. mani is leaking and a possible vaccum leak. I am not sure yet which screw you are talking about but I am sure the previous mech messed with it trying to compensate for the unplugged KS. Did you see the picture with the distributor bolt? Does that look to far off center for the norm? Hopefully I can get busy tommorrow. Still open to suggestions as to where to but OEM parts such as the 45 Intake boot and intake mani gaskets, etc.
Thanks All
When in Doubt...Gas it!

Removed the throttle body and was able to route the KS wire down between the manifold. Should be able to connect it tomorrow. This thing is nasty up inside the mani. Now I have tough decision of cleaning it all up now or get the car running correctly to be sure there aren't any major deals with the motor, then disassembling it to clean again later.
The steel line that runs across the front of the motor, it sure looks beat up, It looks a little dented and bent. Should that be a problem? Should I assume it's bad and replace it? What do you think?

This is the BVSV, it has nothing connected to it? Does it need this in the loop to run correctly?

Yeah, run the charcoal canister's purge to the BVSV and from there to the TB. It's a flow control which prevents the charcoal canister fro providing extra fuel when the engine is below a certain temp.

The BSVS has one of the nipples broken off. Is there a fix or just get another?

Nice info link at the bottom of your last post CRE.

Thanks folks

The BVSV's are very expensive new and I don't know of an aftermarket solution. The best bet is to hit up a salvage yard and grab a couple off any Toyota's of a similar vintage. Most will fit and operate at a similar temp.

Thanks, I really need to update some things and add a couple new wiring diagrams, but you know how it goes... other priorities and all that.

Have everything out of the way and was able to plug in the KS. Now I have to be able to check the vacuum line routing and connections. I guess I can understand the lack of clean up for a flat rate mech, but man it sure was nasty in there. What causes that much intake goo? It looked like mud/grease all though the intake plenum and box. It is now much cleaner.
There is a small 2 hole bracket with vacuum line hook ups, on the drivers side below the intake. Any ideas on what those 2 bolt holes line up too? This thing has been good to work on so far. Thanks