everything is compressed. i have allot of clearance on the caliper piston side. just when i go to put the caliper back over the pads the front one is a hair to thick. same problem on the otherside but eventually something slid into postition. I fallowed the same method i did before. wtf changing brakes is level 1 car stuff. Before i started i called a friend of mine and said."hey its ok to change brakes when its snowing out right" and he said "yea you can change brakes in the snow" well i guess not.

Are you running aftermarket rotors? A local guy I know is running OEM style Brembo rotors and had to take out the anti-vibration shims for the first 10K miles when he changed his pads.

If the one that did slide on felt tight then you should leave it on in that state either.. it may glaze.

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Okay... wait, i understand now... there IS space in between the pads for the rotor, but when mounted the outer face doesn't clear the outer pad, but there's ample room between inner face and pad?

Pull the rotor and clean the hub bore with sandpaper and the same for the hub. ;)

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Another way of fully seating the rotor is to just leave the caliper off and mount the rims, they'll press it back on the rest of the way. I prefer cleaning the bore and hub though as it ensures easier removal the next time. Even with the cleaning you may have to still mount the rim, but I usually don't. HTH

ill try it out. off to work atm
Time elapse:24 hours

i took off the parts and began cleaning. I re mounted the rotor and placed my rim on. pushed it back as far as it would go removed my rim and secured the rotor with lug nuts.

same problem. I apply the caliper over the brakes and the opposite end of my rotor pops out not allowing clerance of the lower caliper bolt to slide into position. now either im not getting 1mm clerance on the rotor to the hub or I don't know what else. Im seriously at my end with this.

I heard that the later production 92 supras may of had there brakes changed to the newer 93 model. can anyone confirm or deny this. I could be wrong.

I bought a new rotor and still have the same problem of not enough clerance. Im taking my pads back and getting something from NAPA.

I belive my problem is the seized caliper top bolt.. at times it is very hard to pivot the caliper up and down due to the top pivot bolt being ungreesed. (wounder how this happened) the otherside slid off just fine. I was looking at how my brakes on both sides work. and on the no problem side of the car the caliper pivots over the break pad and the top bolt (guide) flexes a tad. On the problem side of the car. there is absoulty no play, as i said. my muscle achs from having to pry open the caliper from the torque plate..
I will try to slide the caliper off the top bolt (guide) and re-lub it up, hopefully allowing lateral play, ez future removal. and re-adjusting when i pivot the caliper over the brakes.. problem free side is lubed well.

this thread is becomming to long for such a simple problem. but through reading I learned acouple things.

I removed the caliper still attached to the torque plate and punded out the top bolt with a nice sized ratchet extension. cleaned and re-lubed and re assembled. First with the old rotor then with the new one i just purchased. still having the .5 Cm clearance issue. the bottem bolt on the caliper wont clear the notches in the torque plate. im going to file it down. but might be to tight and make my brakes glaze.

Sorry about the issue with the pads, aside from the two things I mentioned I haven't heard of anyone ever having trouble with this. I've never heard of any MKIII having different components from the others; It is a possibility.

The caliper must move smoothly along the glide. If it doesn't the brake pads may wear unevenly and the caliper can twist introducing a shudder.... and probably some other stuff I haven't personally experienced.

Pull the caliper off the glide and using a good cleaner (I believe I used brake cleaner but it may have been carb cleaner) and a thin metal bottle brush clean the inside out very thoroughly. Then clean the glide (glide, guide, track, rail, I've heard it called a dozen things.); inspect for pitting. Replace it if it is heavily pitted. Once its all clean, lube both sides thoroughly and reassemble test the fit to make sure it moves freely. Make sure you use a lube specified for the task!

after i cleaned using brake cleaner and scrubbed so to speak i put it all back togather but still had the clearance issue.. so i went down to harbor freight and bought a metal file and rubber mallet.. (two peices i have been missing from my garage.) and started to file down the 5cm bump i had on the caliper side. once filed down to an angle and smooth i alligned it up and bumped it into place. rotor turns freely. all thats left is to bleed and mount my rims.

it's snowing like the dickens out here. once i finish the project i will take a small test drive to the end of my driveway and perhaps around the block to test and look for sounds or stiffness. then re-check the work to see if any problems arise. If so ill post about it. But if not consider this thread closed.. hopefully

all's good.
Thread closed =) total time elapsed: 3 days. on a side note.. the broken stud is re-tightened. I cant even remember which one it was.

Brake bleeding issue
 

After everything is re assembled I go to bleed my brakes cause I removed my caliper. I think I might of ruined my master cylinder.
Brakes havent been bled in the 4 years I had the car in my possession. I assume its the Stock MC. When my peddle went down to the floor I probably blew a ring. I put about a bottle and 1/2 through the MC. I bled my brakes till I could clearly see clean fluid comming out and no longer had any air bubbles. I even bled the lines directly From the MC itself as a final test. Still when I start the car my peddle falls flat. Sure ill have pressure for the first pump or so but its steadily decreases till its loosy goosy! Im purchasing a MC tonight have it in tomorrow. but before I install it I would like to know if there is any other tests i can preform or any suggestions to eliminate air in line as a problem and pinpoint MC as culprit.
thanks

Found this for anyone having the same problems
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-wtffffff.html
this is the TSRM Removal
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=BR&P=15
TSRM Parts
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=4702&P=1
And Don't forget to Bench Bleed your new MC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGVnS...eature=related
(for all you non readers, youtube.)

hope this helps people in the future

Well, other than asking if you made sure to bleed them in the right order and ask if you checked for bulging in any of the hoses... can't really help much; You've covered everything I would have.

It was my stock Master cylinder that was causing the issue. pick it up today after breakfast with my g/f and buddy and me and him went to town.
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...&tw=216&s=true first, bench bleed your master cylinder
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...&tw=216&s=trueSecond, remove old Master Cylinder

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...&tw=216&s=trueRe attach Master cylinder and Attach rear brake line.

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...&tw=216&s=trueAttach front brake line and Bleed from MC to remove any air that got in during installation.

thank god thats over..
time elapse from first start.. 11 days.. phew just to change some brakes!

Good work! Took longer than a head gasket... but it was educational. :D