Ma and Pa Kettle change their brakes!
 

I broke one of my lug nut stud moment ago while replacing my brakes.
I did not fallow the proper SOP and temp bolt my roter down so i had wiggle in it. couldent get enough clearance to put my caliper back into place so i started smacking the bottom part of my roter with a hammer.. (so i have anger issues. wanna fight about it..) <- just playing. i really am terribly mad at myself for making such a hairbrained mistake. but i broke off one of my lug nut studs so now what do i do? replace the roter but were do i get the threads at? what are they even called. any thaughts on my problem. im sure im not the first to break a stud so there must be a replacement option available. feel free to laugh at this, humor always lightens the mood and my mood is currently red faced and steaming.

So you just stripped or otherwise mangled the threads on the lug? No biggie, a replacement's around $3. Just tap the old one out (they come through from behind), slide the new one in and put some washers on or a 1" segment of pipe on the outside, thread the lug nut on and tighten up to about 70 ft lbs., back it off and then repeat. After you reinstall, retorque the lugs after the first couple drives.

I believe you're after part number: 90942-02049 MSRP $3.20 ;)

You didn't actually BREAK the lug, did you? If so you need to inspect other components for damage such as warping... takes a lot of torque to break one even if it's under an uneven load.

I belive I whacked the stud back through the hole. so hopefully i dident damage the hub behind it.
so i just need to get it out. ill replace it anyhow to be on the safe side..

There's not a whole lot to damage back there from just knocking a lug into it. Was this the front or the rear?

Well, I suppose in the rear there are the E-brake components to worry about... the front is a simple affair:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=4303&P=1

yea its just the front. I felt like such a heel.. and as soon as it went through a voice in my head said.. "and this is the part were you break it"

oh maybe you could shed some light on this matter. my caliper dosent want to come off. the bottem bolt is removed but its very sticky and tight. for the life of me I cant push it off the top.

to fix a broken wheel stud preform the fallowing.
Remove the caliper, breakpads and caliper torque plate
Remove your rotor and Bang out existing damaged wheel stud
Insert new wheel stud and hit with an anti seize
place stock lug nut on new wheel stud and tighten -NOTE- tighten only till the back of the stud shoulder is touching the back of the hub, do not over tighten.

You guys must have different brake/hub setup to the UK Supra, I’m sure I needed to removed the hub to knock the wheel stud completely through.

naw. if you diden't have a dust guard on it you might of been able to get at it.
but as it is after you remove the caliper torque plate and pull the rotor off
the dust shield is blocking access to behind the hub. the bolts to the dust plate are.. located behind the hub.. hah. so now im looking on how to remove my hub

time elapse 3 minutes...
wtf? do i really need to take my hub off?
time elapse 4 minutes..
im really not wanting to take my hub off. so my decision is this. i just hit the stud out threw the hole in the first place. I can grab it and bring it back but its not tight. ill try to tighten it using the new installation method but if that dosent work im just going to re-assemble and once i get my tire on ill just lug nut it down. still compleatly safe and by the time i have to remove my tire again itl be rusted on there and Ill prolly forget that it was even broken. any yea or nay to this.

The ABS hub is harder to work around but it can still be done... non-ABS is wide open.

abs.. raises hand.. :(

i re-assembled everything but i still have a hairs worth of clearance i cant get passed. thats what made me go hammer crazy in the first place.. I do have my rotor bolted into place to avoid slant but still have that fingernail size worth of clearance from my caliper over the brake pad i cant clear. I called AAP and double checked the size of the pads and they said its correct. warped rotor maybe? just a faction of an inch outa whack?

have you compressed the caliper's piston back into the housing? Warped rotors aren't straight... they're not suddenly thicker. ;)

everything is compressed. i have allot of clearance on the caliper piston side. just when i go to put the caliper back over the pads the front one is a hair to thick. same problem on the otherside but eventually something slid into postition. I fallowed the same method i did before. wtf changing brakes is level 1 car stuff. Before i started i called a friend of mine and said."hey its ok to change brakes when its snowing out right" and he said "yea you can change brakes in the snow" well i guess not.

Are you running aftermarket rotors? A local guy I know is running OEM style Brembo rotors and had to take out the anti-vibration shims for the first 10K miles when he changed his pads.

If the one that did slide on felt tight then you should leave it on in that state either.. it may glaze.

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Okay... wait, i understand now... there IS space in between the pads for the rotor, but when mounted the outer face doesn't clear the outer pad, but there's ample room between inner face and pad?

Pull the rotor and clean the hub bore with sandpaper and the same for the hub. ;)

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Another way of fully seating the rotor is to just leave the caliper off and mount the rims, they'll press it back on the rest of the way. I prefer cleaning the bore and hub though as it ensures easier removal the next time. Even with the cleaning you may have to still mount the rim, but I usually don't. HTH

ill try it out. off to work atm
Time elapse:24 hours

i took off the parts and began cleaning. I re mounted the rotor and placed my rim on. pushed it back as far as it would go removed my rim and secured the rotor with lug nuts.

same problem. I apply the caliper over the brakes and the opposite end of my rotor pops out not allowing clerance of the lower caliper bolt to slide into position. now either im not getting 1mm clerance on the rotor to the hub or I don't know what else. Im seriously at my end with this.

I heard that the later production 92 supras may of had there brakes changed to the newer 93 model. can anyone confirm or deny this. I could be wrong.

I bought a new rotor and still have the same problem of not enough clerance. Im taking my pads back and getting something from NAPA.

I belive my problem is the seized caliper top bolt.. at times it is very hard to pivot the caliper up and down due to the top pivot bolt being ungreesed. (wounder how this happened) the otherside slid off just fine. I was looking at how my brakes on both sides work. and on the no problem side of the car the caliper pivots over the break pad and the top bolt (guide) flexes a tad. On the problem side of the car. there is absoulty no play, as i said. my muscle achs from having to pry open the caliper from the torque plate..
I will try to slide the caliper off the top bolt (guide) and re-lub it up, hopefully allowing lateral play, ez future removal. and re-adjusting when i pivot the caliper over the brakes.. problem free side is lubed well.

this thread is becomming to long for such a simple problem. but through reading I learned acouple things.

I removed the caliper still attached to the torque plate and punded out the top bolt with a nice sized ratchet extension. cleaned and re-lubed and re assembled. First with the old rotor then with the new one i just purchased. still having the .5 Cm clearance issue. the bottem bolt on the caliper wont clear the notches in the torque plate. im going to file it down. but might be to tight and make my brakes glaze.

Sorry about the issue with the pads, aside from the two things I mentioned I haven't heard of anyone ever having trouble with this. I've never heard of any MKIII having different components from the others; It is a possibility.

The caliper must move smoothly along the glide. If it doesn't the brake pads may wear unevenly and the caliper can twist introducing a shudder.... and probably some other stuff I haven't personally experienced.

Pull the caliper off the glide and using a good cleaner (I believe I used brake cleaner but it may have been carb cleaner) and a thin metal bottle brush clean the inside out very thoroughly. Then clean the glide (glide, guide, track, rail, I've heard it called a dozen things.); inspect for pitting. Replace it if it is heavily pitted. Once its all clean, lube both sides thoroughly and reassemble test the fit to make sure it moves freely. Make sure you use a lube specified for the task!

after i cleaned using brake cleaner and scrubbed so to speak i put it all back togather but still had the clearance issue.. so i went down to harbor freight and bought a metal file and rubber mallet.. (two peices i have been missing from my garage.) and started to file down the 5cm bump i had on the caliper side. once filed down to an angle and smooth i alligned it up and bumped it into place. rotor turns freely. all thats left is to bleed and mount my rims.

it's snowing like the dickens out here. once i finish the project i will take a small test drive to the end of my driveway and perhaps around the block to test and look for sounds or stiffness. then re-check the work to see if any problems arise. If so ill post about it. But if not consider this thread closed.. hopefully

all's good.
Thread closed =) total time elapsed: 3 days. on a side note.. the broken stud is re-tightened. I cant even remember which one it was.

Brake bleeding issue
 

After everything is re assembled I go to bleed my brakes cause I removed my caliper. I think I might of ruined my master cylinder.
Brakes havent been bled in the 4 years I had the car in my possession. I assume its the Stock MC. When my peddle went down to the floor I probably blew a ring. I put about a bottle and 1/2 through the MC. I bled my brakes till I could clearly see clean fluid comming out and no longer had any air bubbles. I even bled the lines directly From the MC itself as a final test. Still when I start the car my peddle falls flat. Sure ill have pressure for the first pump or so but its steadily decreases till its loosy goosy! Im purchasing a MC tonight have it in tomorrow. but before I install it I would like to know if there is any other tests i can preform or any suggestions to eliminate air in line as a problem and pinpoint MC as culprit.
thanks

Found this for anyone having the same problems
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-wtffffff.html
this is the TSRM Removal
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=BR&P=15
TSRM Parts
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=4702&P=1
And Don't forget to Bench Bleed your new MC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGVnS...eature=related
(for all you non readers, youtube.)

hope this helps people in the future

Well, other than asking if you made sure to bleed them in the right order and ask if you checked for bulging in any of the hoses... can't really help much; You've covered everything I would have.

It was my stock Master cylinder that was causing the issue. pick it up today after breakfast with my g/f and buddy and me and him went to town.
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...&tw=216&s=true first, bench bleed your master cylinder
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...&tw=216&s=trueSecond, remove old Master Cylinder

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...&tw=216&s=trueRe attach Master cylinder and Attach rear brake line.

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...&tw=216&s=trueAttach front brake line and Bleed from MC to remove any air that got in during installation.

thank god thats over..
time elapse from first start.. 11 days.. phew just to change some brakes!

Good work! Took longer than a head gasket... but it was educational. :D

this thread should be changed to "Ma and Pa Kettle change their brakes!"