?Rebuilt Motor Help!!! - Page 2

Raysupra · 01-04-2010, 03:46 AM

well Im a Marine So I mean I can Buy what I need... Im not rich but I do pour my heart and soul into this car.. lol Its my shitty car dream.. and the car just needs to be put into my garage and Rebuilt ground up.. the harness scares me suspension blow.. rear calipers seized I just redid the Brake lines cause they were rusted.. new interior redid the guages, snapped the speed cable due to the line holding the cable Broke and was bending the cable

Its a Good motor just Every small thing that could need replaceing Does.. haha... I think the tranny has a Leak?

Ok Well I look at it this Way my Subframe Fits a 1jz 90 7m my friend has a 89 and basically Told me all the wrong things he did.. and helped me plan out my swap. If I do a swap basically everythings Compatible BUT Id need to rig up something for the intercooler and Exhaust... other than that its straight Forward buy the motor... and some general stuff Timing oil oilfilter and hopefully the coils are good. then just hope the new one has powersteering for comfort and call It good for 6-8 months till I can Redo all the cooling and breathing factors of the motor... Im looking at these numbers

around 1500-2000$ to Fix My current nightmare... or b 2600 to get the 1j in and maybe another 5-600 to get a custom exhaust and intercooler I found a intercooler for 100$ new from a buddy for a 1j and I can Make my own Exhaust the weekend after the swap I know a Fab shop has tons of extra piping.. Cut weld my own 3" up call It all A Great cheap quick job put a bic and Tip on it later.. .

Im just really stuck... I think my car is getting like 12mpg with no turbo llol plus I have NO power its annoying... I can take out a small Loan To get one or the other project started... btw this is my First supra and wont be the last hopefully a mk4 will come in 3-4 years ill buy something more complete lol not a halfway shitty project car..

thanks alot for the help so far you both have given me some things to think over I know Those Studs Are notorious for probs I can look at them and play around with my manifold Im 100% sure its leaking at the block I felt around.. Its been driven like that for awhile... not Too long ... one oil Change?heh .... wasn't worried I was thinking I would swap the motor.. btw i'd rather just buy a new turbo if i was to keep the 7m

Green7mgte · 01-04-2010, 04:26 AM

my 7mgte also has an exhaust leak. after the head was rebuilt I had just about everything in place and realized i had a stripped and F that noise of Undoing all the work. an exhausting 3 days. so I came up with a solution of getting a concrete lag bolt that would seal up my hole. either that or remove the head, tap, re assemble. which im prolly going to do anyhow. but with the lag bolt I would not need to remove my entire head. sorta a quick fix.

a side note.. exhaust leaks left unchecked will burn up the head and valv cover gaskets over time. my 2 cents on the rebuild or swap. the break down and repair of your 7m will be time consuming, expensive. I would suggest checking the integirity of the remaning moter to even see if its repairable then make a decision. think of what is going to be needed in the rebuild and assign it a value based on how important it is to you. the higher the importance the higher the number.. Money, is this important? if so assign it a high number. time? how important is that.. assign it a number.. (1-20 works) manual labor.. things of this nature. now do it for the 1jz swap and see wich has the higher numarical value. go with the lower one.

Raysupra · 01-04-2010, 04:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green7mgte

think of what is going to be needed in the rebuild and assign it a value based on how important it is to you. the higher the importance the higher the number.. Money, is this important? if so assign it a high number. time? how important is that.. assign it a number.. (1-20 works) manual labor.. things of this nature. now do it for the 1jz swap and see wich has the higher numarical value. go with the lower one.

Thanks good idea... my 7m will needs too much... im about 80% sure a new motor is the solution and ill look at your quickfix... after i look at my leak.. its so annoying... My old Turbo burnt up... I was running it at 12 psi... Could it burnt up of lack of oil or something?? I heard ppl running them at that and though wouldve been ok.. it was rebuilt had 5k on it...

Raysupra · 01-04-2010, 04:46 AM

yea everything was stock.. Good solid 40 oil pressure.. but maybe it wasn't breathing enough or the oil line got a clog in it or isnt flowing enough?... who knows i pushed it hard and it said f me haha ..get treated how you treat

Green7mgte · 01-04-2010, 04:50 AM

TURBO UPGRADE: The factory turbo is able to run boosts up to 14 psi (1 bar). Trying to boost above this is plain useless. . For anything over 14 psi a new block with forged pistons is necessary.

found that.. so 12 psi should of been fine.
http://www.toysport.com/technical%20...tech_notes.htm
thats were i found it. just a little lite reading about different things.

cre · 01-04-2010, 09:43 AM

12psi is fine, unless you have a boost leak it would still be within the turbos efficiency window. After 14 to 15 psi the turbo pushes more hot air than anything and it's well beyond the capacity for most intercoolers to make up for. If you had a boost leak you could have easily over worked the turbo.

From what I've seen even 1JZ's advertised as rebuilt that sell for around $1K are often in sad shape... Used is still, afterall, used.

I really don't think you understand entirely what's involved in the swap or have an unrealistic view of the entire scenario. I've yet to read reports from someone who said it was cake and went without a hitch and only took three days as planned. It's your car though, so have at it. You'll find there is a section over at www.supramania.com specifically for MKIII swaps such as the 1JZ, 2JZ and 1UZ where you'll find a great deal of information and advice. You should check it out.

Good luck!

Green, just from skimming it, that site's a little dated... as a community we've learned much since. Much like the SOGI site, it's a good reference for some basic info, but isn't a good source of current and up to date information. The details about 16psi warping the head is garbage, N/A cams have been proven to cause an overall power LOSS, they are NOT a good high-rev engine (tend to grenade much past 8000RPM unless destroked, from what I've read). There are MUCH better, up to date references online if you look around.

Raysupra · 01-04-2010, 01:13 PM

so whats a couple theories on my turbo seize that it couldve had a leak? got over worked?? should i be worried to put a new one on before completely redoing intercooler exhaust intake tubing?

cre · 01-04-2010, 07:51 PM

How to kill a turbo 101:

1) Lack of oil - This can be accomplished a number of ways, a blockage is possible but not common from what I've heard.. Low motor oil while trying to drift is when this one seems to become the choice method for the turbo's departure.

2) Overworked/overspun - Boost leak. With a boost leak the turbo will have to work extra hard to make up for a pressure being dumped from the system. So, if you've got a leak that's venting 5psi the turbo has to make 17psi to actually get you 12psi at the manifold.

3) Overworked/overspun (part 2) - Seized wastegate. You be seeing ever increasing boost from this as the device used to control the boost pressure in the manifold isn't opening allowing the turbo to slow.

4) Broken shaft in the turbo due to compressor surge. This can occur if the BOV isnt up to the task or is inoperable... I don't know how common it is though, the CT-26 is pretty robust. This could also occur due to the stresses induced by any of the problems listed above.

5) Excessive oil pressure - A blockage in the oil drain from the turbo can cause the oil to back up VERY fast. This can result in a blown oil seal. Generally you'd find yourself burning a lot of oil though; I don't know how likely seizure is.

These are the reasons I know of, there may be some things I'm not thinking of or tham I'm unaware of.

What weight oil have you been running?

Raysupra · 01-04-2010, 09:08 PM

10w-30 hmm i could of had Some Boost leak and the Wastegate could have not been venting off enough also... I have a turbo xs boost controller now...
hmm... I have a Clutch master cylinder leak .... manifold leak and need a new turbo plus plugs belts oil change hmmm
Im Leaning towards buying a new turbo... hmmm... now am i better upgradeing turbos to a 57 or 60-1 trim?? and just keep the boost at a lowering 8 psi
I really want to motor swap but I dunno about the exhaust and intercooler... I will start asking around on the other site.
Keep posted whatever is happenging should be soon I found basically all the parts for whatever step im gonna take.

mirage83 · 01-04-2010, 11:08 PM

My two cents? You don't want to do a 60-1 upbuild with the CT26. Too much wheel in the relatively small housing, questionable reliability as far as upgrades go. The 57 trim is about your best bet for a CT26 upgrade/upbuild... good power, not too much lag, and pretty reliable.

01-04-2010, 04:26 AM	#12
Green7mgte Supra Forum Moderator Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Green-Ohio Posts: 1,297	my 7mgte also has an exhaust leak. after the head was rebuilt I had just about everything in place and realized i had a stripped and F that noise of Undoing all the work. an exhausting 3 days. so I came up with a solution of getting a concrete lag bolt that would seal up my hole. either that or remove the head, tap, re assemble. which im prolly going to do anyhow. but with the lag bolt I would not need to remove my entire head. sorta a quick fix. a side note.. exhaust leaks left unchecked will burn up the head and valv cover gaskets over time. my 2 cents on the rebuild or swap. the break down and repair of your 7m will be time consuming, expensive. I would suggest checking the integirity of the remaning moter to even see if its repairable then make a decision. think of what is going to be needed in the rebuild and assign it a value based on how important it is to you. the higher the importance the higher the number.. Money, is this important? if so assign it a high number. time? how important is that.. assign it a number.. (1-20 works) manual labor.. things of this nature. now do it for the 1jz swap and see wich has the higher numarical value. go with the lower one. __________________ 92 Ma71 7mGTE Auto. SafcII Supra FAQ Supra MKIII FAQ Classified Section guidelines :

01-04-2010, 04:50 AM	#15
Green7mgte Supra Forum Moderator Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Green-Ohio Posts: 1,297	TURBO UPGRADE: The factory turbo is able to run boosts up to 14 psi (1 bar). Trying to boost above this is plain useless. . For anything over 14 psi a new block with forged pistons is necessary. found that.. so 12 psi should of been fine. http://www.toysport.com/technical%20...tech_notes.htm thats were i found it. just a little lite reading about different things. __________________ 92 Ma71 7mGTE Auto. SafcII Supra FAQ Supra MKIII FAQ Classified Section guidelines : Last edited by Green7mgte; 01-04-2010 at 05:12 AM.

01-04-2010, 09:43 AM	#16
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	12psi is fine, unless you have a boost leak it would still be within the turbos efficiency window. After 14 to 15 psi the turbo pushes more hot air than anything and it's well beyond the capacity for most intercoolers to make up for. If you had a boost leak you could have easily over worked the turbo. From what I've seen even 1JZ's advertised as rebuilt that sell for around $1K are often in sad shape... Used is still, afterall, used. I really don't think you understand entirely what's involved in the swap or have an unrealistic view of the entire scenario. I've yet to read reports from someone who said it was cake and went without a hitch and only took three days as planned. It's your car though, so have at it. You'll find there is a section over at www.supramania.com specifically for MKIII swaps such as the 1JZ, 2JZ and 1UZ where you'll find a great deal of information and advice. You should check it out. Good luck! Green, just from skimming it, that site's a little dated... as a community we've learned much since. Much like the SOGI site, it's a good reference for some basic info, but isn't a good source of current and up to date information. The details about 16psi warping the head is garbage, N/A cams have been proven to cause an overall power LOSS, they are NOT a good high-rev engine (tend to grenade much past 8000RPM unless destroked, from what I've read). There are MUCH better, up to date references online if you look around. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

01-04-2010, 07:51 PM	#18
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	How to kill a turbo 101: 1) Lack of oil - This can be accomplished a number of ways, a blockage is possible but not common from what I've heard.. Low motor oil while trying to drift is when this one seems to become the choice method for the turbo's departure. 2) Overworked/overspun - Boost leak. With a boost leak the turbo will have to work extra hard to make up for a pressure being dumped from the system. So, if you've got a leak that's venting 5psi the turbo has to make 17psi to actually get you 12psi at the manifold. 3) Overworked/overspun (part 2) - Seized wastegate. You be seeing ever increasing boost from this as the device used to control the boost pressure in the manifold isn't opening allowing the turbo to slow. 4) Broken shaft in the turbo due to compressor surge. This can occur if the BOV isnt up to the task or is inoperable... I don't know how common it is though, the CT-26 is pretty robust. This could also occur due to the stresses induced by any of the problems listed above. 5) Excessive oil pressure - A blockage in the oil drain from the turbo can cause the oil to back up VERY fast. This can result in a blown oil seal. Generally you'd find yourself burning a lot of oil though; I don't know how likely seizure is. These are the reasons I know of, there may be some things I'm not thinking of or tham I'm unaware of. What weight oil have you been running? __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

01-04-2010, 03:46 AM	#11
Raysupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Camp Lejeune Posts: 59	well Im a Marine So I mean I can Buy what I need... Im not rich but I do pour my heart and soul into this car.. lol Its my shitty car dream.. and the car just needs to be put into my garage and Rebuilt ground up.. the harness scares me suspension blow.. rear calipers seized I just redid the Brake lines cause they were rusted.. new interior redid the guages, snapped the speed cable due to the line holding the cable Broke and was bending the cable Its a Good motor just Every small thing that could need replaceing Does.. haha... I think the tranny has a Leak? Ok Well I look at it this Way my Subframe Fits a 1jz 90 7m my friend has a 89 and basically Told me all the wrong things he did.. and helped me plan out my swap. If I do a swap basically everythings Compatible BUT Id need to rig up something for the intercooler and Exhaust... other than that its straight Forward buy the motor... and some general stuff Timing oil oilfilter and hopefully the coils are good. then just hope the new one has powersteering for comfort and call It good for 6-8 months till I can Redo all the cooling and breathing factors of the motor... Im looking at these numbers around 1500-2000$ to Fix My current nightmare... or b 2600 to get the 1j in and maybe another 5-600 to get a custom exhaust and intercooler I found a intercooler for 100$ new from a buddy for a 1j and I can Make my own Exhaust the weekend after the swap I know a Fab shop has tons of extra piping.. Cut weld my own 3" up call It all A Great cheap quick job put a bic and Tip on it later.. . Im just really stuck... I think my car is getting like 12mpg with no turbo llol plus I have NO power its annoying... I can take out a small Loan To get one or the other project started... btw this is my First supra and wont be the last hopefully a mk4 will come in 3-4 years ill buy something more complete lol not a halfway shitty project car.. thanks alot for the help so far you both have given me some things to think over I know Those Studs Are notorious for probs I can look at them and play around with my manifold Im 100% sure its leaking at the block I felt around.. Its been driven like that for awhile... not Too long ... one oil Change?heh .... wasn't worried I was thinking I would swap the motor.. btw i'd rather just buy a new turbo if i was to keep the 7m

01-04-2010, 04:46 AM	#14
Raysupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Camp Lejeune Posts: 59	yea everything was stock.. Good solid 40 oil pressure.. but maybe it wasn't breathing enough or the oil line got a clog in it or isnt flowing enough?... who knows i pushed it hard and it said f me haha ..get treated how you treat

01-04-2010, 01:13 PM	#17
Raysupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Camp Lejeune Posts: 59	so whats a couple theories on my turbo seize that it couldve had a leak? got over worked?? should i be worried to put a new one on before completely redoing intercooler exhaust intake tubing?

01-04-2010, 09:08 PM	#19
Raysupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Camp Lejeune Posts: 59	10w-30 hmm i could of had Some Boost leak and the Wastegate could have not been venting off enough also... I have a turbo xs boost controller now... hmm... I have a Clutch master cylinder leak .... manifold leak and need a new turbo plus plugs belts oil change hmmm Im Leaning towards buying a new turbo... hmmm... now am i better upgradeing turbos to a 57 or 60-1 trim?? and just keep the boost at a lowering 8 psi I really want to motor swap but I dunno about the exhaust and intercooler... I will start asking around on the other site. Keep posted whatever is happenging should be soon I found basically all the parts for whatever step im gonna take.

01-04-2010, 11:08 PM	#20
mirage83 12psi boost Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Georgia Posts: 359	My two cents? You don't want to do a 60-1 upbuild with the CT26. Too much wheel in the relatively small housing, questionable reliability as far as upgrades go. The 57 trim is about your best bet for a CT26 upgrade/upbuild... good power, not too much lag, and pretty reliable.