wth happened?

Krem · 12-07-2009, 10:15 PM

I actually was hoping the over heating issues was the thermostat a few weeks ago, so I had the hoses and thermostat replaced then as well.. I'll look into the filtration.. didn't know something like that existed, but can imagine it'd be pretty beneficial... especially in an older engine where junk is likely to be swept away by the fluid in the system... only to build up elsewhere... (god forbid it's the rotor of a water pump)

cre · 12-08-2009, 12:34 AM

It also serves to reduce wear... little debris that is too small to clog gets pushed through constantly ans slowly eats away at things like the water pump impeller.

They make coolant filter kits, but a brilliant man on another forum (goes by JetJock and he's frighteningly brilliant) pointed out that all you need is a water/fuel separation mount (it's a boating thing.

) and a coolant filter; They both use the same head and that mount is less expensive. Then you just get some additional hose and run the line that goes to the throttle body through the filter too. Replace the filter after you flush your coolant (once a year or so). A remote oil filter mount and an oil filter will work too (make sure there's no drain back valve in the filter), but the coolant filter is built a little differently to suit the task better.

MA70-3.0GT · 12-08-2009, 03:27 PM

Just a quickie, not sure where you took the car for the rad/ job, but did you make them aware of the bleed procedure for this car? i.e. lifting the front way in the air...

cre · 12-08-2009, 07:23 PM

That's not a special Toyota proceedure by any means. A clean and readily flowing cooling system should bleed the air out pretty quickly. I never "burp" my system. I just fill the overflow completely, turn the heater on and let the car warm up a idle... then let it cool back down. I'll check it again in a week after that unless I hear the token "waterfall in the dash" sound indicating more air still moving through the heater core.

Krem · 12-08-2009, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MA70-3.0GT

Just a quickie, not sure where you took the car for the rad/ job, but did you make them aware of the bleed procedure for this car? i.e. lifting the front way in the air...

This explains why after my thermostat and hoses were replaced during my flush and also after this radiator repair, I had to add more coolant to the system after driving it just a little bit... I was wondering about that..

Cre: you mentioned something about running your heater... is this a normal step in the process? what if my heater's not working cause I have no water in the heater hose? Last I cracked that open, it had nothing more than a mm deep puddle about 2 cm long and 1cm wide..

cre · 12-08-2009, 08:29 PM

The heater is supplied hot water via the coolant system... it's plumbed right into it. If your heater system is dry and the rest of the system is still full of coolant you've got bigger problems than burping a few cc's of air.

You always have to top off the coolant after a flush and fill. There will ALWAYS be air trapped in the system, doesn't matter what car it is.

Krem · 12-08-2009, 10:10 PM

what problems could I have if there's no water in the heater hose? cause short of no working heater, I don't see, feel or hear any other issues...

cre · 12-08-2009, 10:16 PM

If the coolant system was full and your heater hoses didn't have any coolant in them you'd be looking at some very serious blockages... frankly, I don't see how it's possible for the system to get that clogged up as it would have to be clogged on both sides. How did you determine the heater circuit was empty? And was the coolant system actually full?

Lack of hot air when the heater is on is usually due to the VSV for the heater control valve dying. It's easily bypassed until it can be replaced... it's been posted on here before, try searching for the specifics if you think that may be relevant.

12-08-2009, 03:27 PM	#3
MA70-3.0GT 12psi boost Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Crewe, England Posts: 356	Just a quickie, not sure where you took the car for the rad/ job, but did you make them aware of the bleed procedure for this car? i.e. lifting the front way in the air... __________________ '89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!

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12-07-2009, 10:15 PM	#1
Krem 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 167	I actually was hoping the over heating issues was the thermostat a few weeks ago, so I had the hoses and thermostat replaced then as well.. I'll look into the filtration.. didn't know something like that existed, but can imagine it'd be pretty beneficial... especially in an older engine where junk is likely to be swept away by the fluid in the system... only to build up elsewhere... (god forbid it's the rotor of a water pump)

12-08-2009, 12:34 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	It also serves to reduce wear... little debris that is too small to clog gets pushed through constantly ans slowly eats away at things like the water pump impeller. They make coolant filter kits, but a brilliant man on another forum (goes by JetJock and he's frighteningly brilliant) pointed out that all you need is a water/fuel separation mount (it's a boating thing. ) and a coolant filter; They both use the same head and that mount is less expensive. Then you just get some additional hose and run the line that goes to the throttle body through the filter too. Replace the filter after you flush your coolant (once a year or so). A remote oil filter mount and an oil filter will work too (make sure there's no drain back valve in the filter), but the coolant filter is built a little differently to suit the task better.

12-08-2009, 07:23 PM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	That's not a special Toyota proceedure by any means. A clean and readily flowing cooling system should bleed the air out pretty quickly. I never "burp" my system. I just fill the overflow completely, turn the heater on and let the car warm up a idle... then let it cool back down. I'll check it again in a week after that unless I hear the token "waterfall in the dash" sound indicating more air still moving through the heater core.

12-08-2009, 08:29 PM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The heater is supplied hot water via the coolant system... it's plumbed right into it. If your heater system is dry and the rest of the system is still full of coolant you've got bigger problems than burping a few cc's of air. You always have to top off the coolant after a flush and fill. There will ALWAYS be air trapped in the system, doesn't matter what car it is.

12-08-2009, 10:10 PM	#7
Krem 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 167	what problems could I have if there's no water in the heater hose? cause short of no working heater, I don't see, feel or hear any other issues...

12-08-2009, 10:16 PM	#8
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	If the coolant system was full and your heater hoses didn't have any coolant in them you'd be looking at some very serious blockages... frankly, I don't see how it's possible for the system to get that clogged up as it would have to be clogged on both sides. How did you determine the heater circuit was empty? And was the coolant system actually full? Lack of hot air when the heater is on is usually due to the VSV for the heater control valve dying. It's easily bypassed until it can be replaced... it's been posted on here before, try searching for the specifics if you think that may be relevant.