Turbo + Catalytic Converter

[cre]

You explained it fine MA70. I thought we'd already gone over this in another thread.

Cyto, a missing cat will not cause any problems... a clogged one will! At this age it's not uncommon at all for a cat to be clogged.

Just an FYI for the benefit of the group - When a cat gets clogged it is usually due to certain chemicals building up and glazing on the catalyst (it's not really something you can clean off). However, it is always worth checking to see if a blockage is actually due to loose debris collecting in front of the catalyst... this can be cleaned out by back flushing the cat with pressurized air (do not spray the catalyst directly with a high pressure blower though, the honeycomb is fragile).

Backpressure is garbage... BUT too large of an exhaust DOES have negative effects on N/A engines and *some* forced induction systems. I'm not going to go into it. The temperature bump exhaust gasses see while passing through a cat make up for what restriction is presented by a *decently flowing* cat. There is no reason not to run a cat other than just being a cheap SOB... if you're concerned about pressure get a high flow cat; it's less headache come emission time and less polution (if you're on of those wackos who doesn't believe humans can create enough polution to cause ecological problems try driving through any major city on a day with low barometric pressure.... F#$%ing idiots...).

[Cyto]

I ordered a cheapo Cat, and I've heard from 2 people that the wastegate is stuck. What do I need to buy? Any links of the EXACT part?
And thank you all for the support!

The car does already have a straight pipe out the back, but the Cat was destroyed during the overheating that caused the BHG.

Water got in the Cat and melted everything, he gutted the whole thing and put it back on there.

[cre]

You need to TEST the waste gate... don't just throw money at the car or you'll be broke in no time.

[Cyto]

Originally Posted by cre

You need to TEST the waste gate... don't just throw money at the car or you'll be broke in no time.

We have, we took the little tube that connects to the actuator, put a ton of pressure and nothing happened.

2 different people suggested it was stuck shut.

I have been meaning to replace it for a few months now, but I havent known exactly which part I needed to replace.
Is this the right part?

http://www.ioffer.com/i/Toyota-CT26-...urbo-124287115

[cre]

Yeah, I was one of the people who suggested it... or was that someone else's post I responded to... doesn't matter anyway, just wanted to be sure you tested it.

That looks like the right part, but I would ask the the distance from the center of the two mounting holes from each other and the distance from the center of each hole to the center of the bell... just to be 100% sure.

If the gate itself is stuck a new actuator isn't going to help. You'll need to pull the turbo and see what needs cleaned up. You may want to disconnect the actuator's arm and then try moving the waste gate's armature by hand or with pliers. If the waste gate itself is stuck it is possible te actuator is also damaged now as well, so re-test it when it's disconnected.

[Cyto]

Okay, I'll do that. It's almost 10 degrees outside, so I'll wait until tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help. I'm starting to get an understanding of this problematic car. So many things can go wrong. Its crazy.

[MA70-3.0GT]

tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=IN&P=1

(if you haven't already got it in your favourites, PUT IT THERE!!! It's a godsend!)

In the tsrm it says if the wastegate itself is stuck, buy a new turbo!

OK, back to planet earth & most stuck 'gates can be freed by oiling the pivot & working back & forth with pliers (actuator disconnected at this stage) until it's nice & easy to move again.

A lot of turbos can be got to without removal but the CT26 is a bitch to get at in the Supra (ask my knuckles!) so you'd be best off removing it if that's the issue. As cre said, if the 'gate is siezed the actuator may have been damaged by now but considering the price of new ones it's worth testing while disconnected to make sure. Not with "a ton of pressure" though as this can damage it, just around 10/11psi as in my previous post & it should move at around 7...