Order new seals for the rocker covers from Toyota while you're at it... I do recommend getting actual Toyota brand seals for those.

http://www.modified.com/features/060.../photo_02.html

I think this Supra is sweet.

just side comment from the peanut gallery.. I need to take the car in for greater majority of things wrong with it... I might be able to swap a battery, alternator, spark plug wires and such... but when it comes down to diagnostics and repairs that require something be removed to access something else... I'll take her into a shop (for now, hopefully I'll catch up to Cre someday).. However, I typically will find out what is wrong with it and buy the parts myself rather than the mechanic's supplier.. this doesn't save a bundle, but it has definately saved me ~$500 on the $1500 in car repair I've had since owning her.

there is no valve cover gasket mentioned on the Toyota document as you can see;

I will ring Toyota tomorrow for more details, like ph etc;

this is were the leaks are according to first mechanic;

are there 2 valve cover gaskets?;

when replacing the valve cover gasket will I have to do a valve adjustment;

these seals are they spark plug tube seals or what about them;

do I need to order 2xseals for gaskets?;

what about grommets?;

what tools am I likely to need?;

should I use sealant and what type?

The cover gaskets are in the overhaul gasket set they listed.

The spark plug grommets are built into the boot on the spark plug wires.

There is also a third valve cover or rocker cover "gasket" which is the big black thing running down the center of the two covers... the plug wires reach between it. It is advisable to replace it as it helps keep oil away from the spark plugs if the other cover seals are leaking and it helps keep dirt from dropping down in there as well. It is not as inexpensive as the seals for the two covers though. And yes, there are two rocker cover seals, one for each side.

I just want to know how the Toyota shop diagnosed the blown head gasket, really. It's not a given they used any of the methods I mentioned, there are a few tests which will indicate the HG or not... but for a firm diagnosis more than one needs to be employed.

There is only one place where sealant is used... use a GOOD sealant for the job, either Toyota's recommended FIPG (form in place gasket) material or "The Right Stuff" if it is available in your region or an equivalent.

If you look here you'll find an exploded view of the cylinder head and components. Toyota calls the covers we've been talking about the #1, #2 and #2 cylinder head covers. On that same page is the torque specification for each srcew and bolt... be sure to follow those values when putting everything back together; These engines are VERY tempermental if things are over or under tightened... this is very easy with a decent torque wrench and the folks at the parts store should be happy and able to show you what the value on the page that you need to look at is and how to use the wrench.

Tools: Socket wrench, 12mm and 10mm sockets, one socket extension (I think 12in/30cm or so will do), torque wrench, phillips screwdriver, 14mm hex socket (for the #3 cover), a couple towels.

The first picture here shows where to put the sealant. Make sure there is absolutely no oil on the surface when you put the sealant on. Do NOT use sealant anywhere else.

When you reinstall the rocker covers you may tighten them with a regular screwdriver just hand tight; most torque wrenches of higher values like you want for the rest of the job either do not go that low or they are too inaccurate that low. So, unless you want to buy second torque wrench for the appropriate range just get them good an hand tight. I recommend using blue thread sealant (non-permanent type; they can get it for you at the parts store) on the screws and replacing the 12 grommets/rubber backed metal washers with new ones from Toyota is a good idea.

I'm getting excited.


I may have to put this off depending on cost.


Just studying right now.


Good links cre

"not every supra looks like a catfish"

love that car.

UPDATE:

I phoned Toyota Garage today;

(1) they didn't do pH test on the water reservoir,

(2) they didn't do a compression test on cyclinder heads.


They did do pressure test on the water/coolant, results;

(1) it didn't hold any pressure,

(2) there is no water getting to the engine at all.


If this were the case the engine would not be working.

Checked the oil again, it is clear as day, no bubbles.

After I come home from work today I am going to feel the water reservoir to see if it is warm, that should tell me if the water is circulating and therefore getting to the engine, YES?

My water reservoir never warms up is this right?

I drained the radiator and the coolant was cyrstal clear (pink yes).

I think the engine plug bolt head has been snapped off before because were it should be there is a screw headless bolt hanging out (maybe I'm mistaken and can't find it from top view).

Should I disconnect the hose at the rear them to drain the engine?

The water from the reservoir never drained when I drained the radiator, is this because the pump pumps it out?

Next I filled radiator with water, switched engine on, no change to reservoir, so I undid the plug a little and waited while some water drained, no change to reservoir. How can I get pump to pump water from reservoir to see if it is working?

The radiator gets very hot, I know this is normal but it steams alot. Is this a sign of a leaky radiator or a bad radiator? Why does my thero also read normal?

Right, I didn't even notice the sticky relating to oil in cyclinder cover gasket, good thread and very reassuring.

So I might just replace the #3 Cyclinder Head Cover with new part from Toyota and not the Valve Cover Gaskets. Aswell as replace the plugs and wires.

That should sort out misfiring problem then move on to next problem.

I know I jump from one thing to the next but if Toyota came up with no pressure in cooling system, there must be something in it.

Were are you cre, don't give up on me!