checking out an 86 mk3 tomorrow

[btwilson86]

Glad it's running, just a couple thoughts though... You said that you kept adding oil? Is it because it was getting low on oil, or you thought it was low because your gauge shows no pressure? And I would try and clean off the contact on the oil pressure switch and reinstall the connector and see if that fixes it, otherwise you may want to put another oil pressure gauge in so that you can monitor it.

Also now that you've got it running, shut it off and check for codes! Wanna make sure everything is set up right and you don't have any gremlins hiding in the car...

One last thing, as much as I bet you would love to take your intake off again, you need to fix your leaky valve cover gaskets. That can only cause more problems down the road.

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

Glad it's running, just a couple thoughts though... You said that you kept adding oil? Is it because it was getting low on oil, or you thought it was low because your gauge shows no pressure? And I would try and clean off the contact on the oil pressure switch and reinstall the connector and see if that fixes it, otherwise you may want to put another oil pressure gauge in so that you can monitor it.

Also now that you've got it running, shut it off and check for codes! Wanna make sure everything is set up right and you don't have any gremlins hiding in the car...

One last thing, as much as I bet you would love to take your intake off again, you need to fix your leaky valve cover gaskets. That can only cause more problems down the road.

it was getting low on oil. i checked the dipstick. yea im going to check that oil pressure connector and see what i find. maybe that round sensor thing is bad? could it be a fuse? i really want that gauge working. and yes i definitely need to check the codes tonight. ill go over supragirls thread on how to read them.

to you have any recommendations for replacement bolts for the covers?

[cre]

You may replace the screws with M6 hex bolts, but whatever you use remember not to over tighten them! 22 INCH lbs, is spec... too much and you may warp the covers, split the seal, or prematurely compress the seal; all of which will result in continued leaks.

The ECU requires a signal from the stock oil pressure sender. From what I understand, without it the ECU reacts as if there is a critical fault: pulls timing, adds fuel. Even if you want to swap in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge you really should get the sender working and connected. As btwilson said, it's most likely the connection.

When you installed the head did you place RTV at the corners of the rear timing plate as indicated in the TSRM? If not you're not going to be happy.

[cvbikeguy]

No rtv...

What have I done?

[cvbikeguy]

No rtv...

What problems am I looking at? And I did buy new bolts for the cam covers so I might have warped them?

[cvbikeguy]

Cre?

Anyone?

[cre]

Well, did you over torque the covers? If you did you can check for warpage by holding them against a piece of glass... no biggie. After you reinstall (and put RTV in the right place here too) if you have issues with leakage then you've most likely crushed the rubber seal... and before anyone tried to argue that you can't crush rubber, go look up the shore durometer scale... I'm sick of arguing about stupid shit (not at all directed at you CV).

As for the RTV on the timing plate... you're going to leak oil by the water pump and below the alternator... if it gets bad enough it will soak and ruin the timing belt.

The location where RTV is REQUIRED is shown on these two pages:
(1st picture)
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=55

(1st picture)
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=56

Additionally, there is an order you SHOULD use when installing the valve covers. Tighten the two middle bolts 1/2 the torque value, then tighten the inner bolt toward the front, then the outer bolt toward the rear, then the outer toward the front, then the inner toward the rear... then in the same order torque the rest of the 22 INCH lbs.



I am sorry... I thought you were following the manual with all of this.There are two ways to seal the leak at the timing plate: pull the head or pull the lower timing plate... both entail approximately the same amount of labor, but the head is the one you're familiar with... and the head is the safer bet... downside there is you'll need a new HG. By pulling the timing plate you can slide it off, load in a lot of RTV on ALL of the connecting surfaces and then try to slide it in without pinching the HG thus preventing the timing plate from mounting without a gap... I've done it successfully, but I don't recommend it.




I'll add that I think it's unlikely that ou warped the valve covers... still, you should check them just in case.

[cre]

I've been through the timing plate thing on two of these cars, including my own not both my fault although mine was). It's not the worst thing that could happen and pulling the head back off isn't so bad... not since everything's been off recently and the process is fresh in your mind.

The leaks at the lower timing plate are generally very steady, but slow. You can get by for a good amount of time before tackling it. Sometimes it won't start leaking right away either, but that doesn't seem very common. Unfortunately, this is a common oversight another common source of leaks here is machine shops not cutting the block deck with the timing plate installed thus making the timing plate taller than the block which holds the head up at the front.

I feel bad man. Nothing worse than forgetting one little thing only to find out it just may bite you in the ass in a big way... but seriously, don't freak... it shouldn't be leaking so much as to prevent you from driving the car for a month or two until you're ready to swap the HG... and the HG WILL be easier to swap the second time around... hell, maybe you'll the one lucky SOB for whom it doesn't leak.