Ok so hooked up the whole wiring harness to there designated locations. Now doing the vacuum hoses under the intake manifold area... anyone got some diagrams of all this stuff? got the EC3 diagram from cygnus already just wondering if there is anything else or perhaps a real image of where they go perhaps, any help is appreciated thanks.

might be satisfied with the hoses for now, but do post an image of what it looks like under your intake if you get a chance. Ok now on the exhaust side, there is a heater hose coming off the block, looking from the passenger side to the far left/ behind the exhaust manifold, where does this heater hose go? On my old engine it is just plugged, but i'm the one that plugged it when it was leaking i think. Now cant remember where it goes. Any help is appreciated, can get pics if needed.

Can't help with pics, my car is a GE+T. You can look at the EPC for the heater hose routing... the coolant hard pipes on JDM MKIIIs (it may have just been a Cressida thing, never got confirmation on that) was different than on the USDM engines, so you may have to get creative.

[strike]Here's the EPC page:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1603&P=2[/strike]



EDIT: whoops, I forgot you're not running a GTE... it's freezing and snowy as... well, a VERY cold, snowy place... outside right now, so no help with pics. As for the coolant hose routing: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1603&P=1 You'll see there that one of the ports on the passenger side is capped.

NOTE: NEVER cap a coolant or oil line if you're deleting it unless you're POSITIVE it is safe to cap. Many hoses which see to serve no purpose are there for a reason... if it was safe to just cap them, Toyota probably would have... for example, there's a hose on the side of the thermostat housing on the N/A, it's a pressure relief; Without it the thermostat could fail to often. Other hoses like this on other vehicles serve as anti-cavation devices (prevents erosion of water pump, water passages and so on). There is also the potential of creating high and low pressure spots in the cooling system... VERY undesirable. Just figured I'd mention this since you brought up the topic.

ok so figured out where the hose went to. It turns out that this may have come out of a RHD car and thus the capped ends on the hardpipe were on dif sides on my two engines. On the new engine it is capped with a metal cap on the driver side. On the old engine it was hose capped on the passenger side and on the driver side a hose went up into the firewall directly above it. I just bought a longer hose and went from passenger side of engine to driver side firewall.

But all in all I got the car running now, working on timing and idle and the such at this moment. Right now i have it idling and i believe at the correct timing. but idle is kinda high-ish.. 900 or so, umm there are still a couple of vacuum lines i gotta figure out what to do with since i deleted the EGR on it. Anyone do an EGR delete before? any info on this would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

And yes CRE I agree, I would never cap a hose unless it was meant to be capped, or of course i was lead to believe it was supposed to for some reason. The cap i put on was capped before, i just had to repair a leak to the old cap, which i'm not certain was supposed to be capped but it's how it was when i got the car, so i would be curious to know if yalls is capped too on the passenger side back of exhaust.

EDIT: ok that second link you posted show's it capped. Thats good to know :p thanks man! appreciate it :D

I'm glad you've got it all running. :bigthumb:

When you fail emissions due to high NOx levels just remember where you threw those EGR components... Cali emissions SUCK! :frown:

Actually, these days most people who actually know how the system works do not recommend removing the EGR system... it's sole purpose is to reduce combustion chamber temps in low throttle conditions. It reduces NOx, reduces engine temp, reduces knock (yes, knock is always there), and keeping the chamber nice and cool may provide better responsiveness when you first mash the pedal. At WOT, the system is OFF... I understand why you pulled it, but for those who think they need to go out of their way to delete it so they'll get some big performance increase, they're quite simply wrong.