Putting JDM engine in!!! :D
 

Hey guys so I just got my JDM 7MGE shipped to me and I'm ready to put it in now.... and yes I know why did I not get the turbo :( just money issues is all, I've been dying for my beast to be turbo'd but it'll have to wait.

Ok so I noticed some differences from the old to the new engine already. Like the motor mounts are different on the two :s umm but on the new engine i received one of the mounts was broken so i need to use from the old engine...

anyways my problem lays in how everything below the intake differs on the two engines, the mounts are in dif places on the block and i have a fuel line going from fuel rail to two dif spots on both engines... so just wondering if anyone has info to share with me when it comes to putting in a JDM engine, how to resolve my fuel line problem as it is going right to a place on the new engine where the engine mount from the old engine has to go... also would like to know what other things like this can i expect to run into putting the new engine in? any help is appreciated guys, thanks in advance.

Best bet would be to swap everything over that bolts onto the engine, as there will be several differences....

The fact that you have different mounts tells me that your engine came from either a 89 or later Supra or a 89 or later Cressida, both of them having a slightly lower redline due to changes in balancing the rotating assembly. You may want to look into getting the proper ECU, although your 86 ECU should be able to work fine. Just be mindful of the lower redline, and take care of routing all of the vacuum lines properly before you install the engine, as this will be extremely difficult if you wait till it's in.

That's all that I can think of at the moment, just swap everything external over.

The mounts being in a different place point to a Cressy engine. Does the intke still branch off in a "Y" after the throttle body or is it one straight piece of pipe up to the intake plenum? If it doesn't branch it's from a Cressida and the oil pan and pump are not compatible. You'll also want to swap over the ENTIRE intake and vacuum system or you'll lose the benefits of the ACIS. You'll also need to swap over your engine harness in order to keep the ACIS which I recommend.

Be sure to tear the engine apart for a VERY thorough inspection... bearings, replace the headgasket, leak down test to test rings... JDM's are time bombs far more often that people like to admit. They're so cheap to buy and ship over here and still manage to resell cheap because they're largely treated as disposable cars over there.

I am in the middle of doing this myself on a 1990 cressida. I purchased an engine from enginesus.com They replace the head gasket and surface the head as well. Since I know about the BHG, I checked their torque settings on the head bolts. they were at 72, the correct setting. I got a set of ARP head studs, and replaced each one, one by one. First torqued to 72, then to 85-90, as ARP reccomends. Since all the seals are now 20 years old, I went to E-bay, and bought an Eristic engine seal set for about 50 bucks from a vendor in California. The head gasket might not be of the highest quality, but it was not crap either. Since my head gasket was replaced by enginesus, I did not use the head gasket. The other gaskets and seals in the set appeared to be of good quality. I replaced the front and rear main seal. I purchased a timing belt set from another vendor and installed that, along with a new water pump. I checked the main and rod bearings with Plastigage, all were within tolerance, so I left them in. Considering that rod bearings are only 50 bucks or so, I could/should have replaced them. I adjusted the clearances in the cam shims. I used some or the shims from the old engine. The engine mounts were not on the engine, but I noticed that some of the fuel injection lines were in a different spot than on the cressida, so I just moved the stuff from the old engine to the new one. The oil pan and oil pump were different, so i used my old ones. I bought the FIPG from Toyota, and installed the oil pan.

Replacing head bolts one at a time (while the others are torqued) is a very bad idea. The 7M's head is not that robust and you create a big upset in the uniformity of tension across the head. I know why you did it that way... to prevent the composite head gasket from tearing, but you really may have been better off just replacing it.

Other than that, you've done it all pretty much by the book. Excellent!

Regarding the ARP bolt substiution. I have seen other websites that metion this. I also called ARP directly. They told me that it can be done, and is being done, but they cannot guarantee it will work. Since this was a brand new headgasket installation and the engine has not run since it was installed, I decided to take the risk. I will report the outcome once the engine has been installed and has been used for a while.

Your point is well taken

Thanks for the replies fellas and yes CRE the intake is the same as on the old engine to a T or a Y for this matter :P I have already replaced the components that I found necessary to replace so far, but i'm trying to make this as plug and play as possible. Putting engine in tomorrow, finally got somebody to help me with the drop in. Not doing a rebuild at this time, but will see how it plugs in and go from there. Are injectors on the foreign models the same as on the American models? and will that have an affect in conjunction with the mass air flow sensor i have, or will the cpu compensate... i dunno.. well i'll keep ya posted

The US market injectors are yellow, the JDM are green. I have seen the JDM ones offered on e-bay. they have a higher flow rate. I suppose the yellow ones are intended to pass emissions standards here. It might be possible that the ECU on the JDM engines differ as well, and work together with the green JDM ones there.

Wrong. There is no difference between the USDM and JDM injectors nor is there any difference with those from other markets.

Yellow topped injectors are N/A from pre89 model MKIII Supras and Cressidas. Green topped are from Supras sold in '89 and thereafter. The pre89 injectors (yellow are low impedance and require the use of a resistor pack which is found on the drivers side wheel well. 89+ injectors are high impedance. The upside to having pre89 injectors is that the GTE (all years) used low impedance injectors, so, if you're going to add a turbo to your N/A and plan on keeping the N/A electronics you may drop in GTE electronics... no can do if you're 89+.

Sheesh.....



EDIT: also of note is that if your vehicle has one color and the other vehicle has the other the wire harnesses are generally NOT compatible... you'll need to swap your old harness over.

Oop......I stand corrected. :bow:

Thanks CRE....

<snobbish, royalty voice> You are forgiven.... </snobbish, royalty voice>
:grinking:

confused much
 

hey so i've had a jdm engine installed by a motor shop here in ottawa and i have some interesting questions, first of the car is a 89(newer style) but the engine that i acquired is from a 91 auto jdm, now it's been running fine until i decided to check up on my vacuum lines, for sum reason my bvsv(whatever that is) is not on my thermostat housing but rather an electronical device is in it's place? all pictures i have ever seen indicate there should be some vacuum lines there, the company custom build a wiring harness for me as it was chopped near the block. but i still have the 89 ecu in the car and as mentioned you guys were talking about the different impedence injectors on each model, is there anyway i can check if my setup is ok. thanks for your time:)

The JDM 7M's have all the same equipment except they do not have the EGR system (they should have kept it as it creates lower combustion temps and thus you can apply higher boost and advance the timing even further without knock!) and I believe the oil pressure sender is different. If you don't have the BVSV or charcoal canister I highly recommend you repair/restore that system. It serves a few purposes, the pressure regulation helps prevent the fuel pump from caviating (deteriorating) and also from working harder than it needs to.

The sensor locations didn't really change just one spot was added.

Here are most of the ventilation and vacuum hoses; the only ones you probably aren't going to have are the couple used for the EGR system.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1201&P=2
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1708&P=3
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=7701&P=2


Heater VSV and Control Valve:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=8717&P=1


EGR; if your EGR system is present you'll see these components and you'll find the vacuum lines in the first diagram above.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=2501&P=1


If your sensors are in different locations you need to make sure they're all at least on the correct side of the thermostat.


The injector impedence is an N/A only thing... unless you're putting N/A injectors in a GTE it has nothing to do with a GTE their injectors were the same. NOTE: If you are, for some bizarre reason, wanting to install N/A injectors in a GTE you need the YELLOW topped (see: low impedance) injectors. ;)

Post some pictures of the things you have questions about and I'll see if I can be of assistance.

thanks for some of those helpful hints, well all my vacuum lines are hooked up except for in the picture you can see that i dont have a bvsv with two vacuum ports, instead rather it has an electrical plug. the vacuum line has simply been directed to the charcoal canister from the port on the metal line coming out parallel to the intake. could this possibly be because it's a 91 engine? and also i haven't tested the wires but i assume they are operational even considering im using a stock ecu. and i apologize if it's a fuzzy picture shity camera.

also just to note its near the bottom left corner. and ive have the vacuum line unhooked atm. but not to deviate from that too much my turbo shaft snapped leaving the turbine i think(whatever the exhaust side is) freely bobbing around making a wicked noise. basically the internals exploded sending most of my oil and coolant into the exhaust. so far i have rerouted the coolant lines into each other and connected my maf sensor inline to the throttle body directly. it is all running very well except for a minor leak from putting a custom made elbow to route the oil back to the pan. i can beef it up with bigger parts but what i wanted to know is would it be bad if i blocked the turbo oil lines off with a plate. i havent done it cause i figured it would mess up oil delivery and pressure.

The thermostat neck you have installed apperas to be either a pre89 or N/A version (I can't remember which vehicles those were for... The were on ALL 89+ GTEs though, I know that to be a fact); it's hard to tell for sure.. crap angle cut it off i the pic. If so it has only two ports and thus those idiots saw fit to simply delete the BVSV... it's not the cheapest part and it is essential. Running it off straight vacuum will increase the wear of the fuel pump's impellers.

The turbo's oil supply may be capped, plug the drain too. The coolant line MUST continue, don't cap it. Gut the internals of the turbo if you're going to be driving like this for a while, if any small bits were to get sucked into the intake you can do MAJOR damage in less than one second. Fortunately the IC will act as a filter to a digree, but you need to gut the turbo and thoroughly flush the IC and intake piping asap.

wow thanks for the info, just a little question so i understand on my part(i'm a little slow) so when i get a better pic to show you what i have, does the bvsv simply mount ontop of this coolant sensor? as my friends supra does not have this electrical sensor but does have the bvsv. and for the fortunate part he's got 4 parts cars available to me so that should not be a problem getting it. good news on the turbo conversion then:) i'll post pics of my setup but the turbo is completely gutted with the exhaust external housing left, using the big clamp with a steel plate i managed to block if off perfectly:) coolant still flows, inlet to outlet now and as for oil i guess i need a pretty thick blockoff plate? i'm using the thickness of two road signs worth of metal(don't have a tape measure) would it also be advisable to keep the revs down whille driving or can the ecu account for timing and spark considering there is no more boost involved?

There is no electrical sensor in that location... p e r i o d. K?

Get a decent photo of all the sensors on that thermostat tower (both sides) and we'll see if we can't figure out what they were thinking and what needs to be fixed.

To you have any aftermarket gauges or a turbo timer with a temp sensor?

With the block off plate you want something at least 1/8" (3mm) thick, preferably 1/4" thick. Take the Oil line in to a parts store and look among the Chevy block off plates.. there should be something close enough; You may need to oval out the holes a bit to get it over the studs on your engine, but it'll work fine. USE A GASKET!!!!

When you press the gas pedal more than 70% the ECU will go into closed loop... it's not reading the O2 sensor at this point and is going to be pretty rich. It's still measuring airflow though, so for the most part it should be alright. I'd avoid pounding on it too much though. If you run rich too much you'll foul the O2 sensor and foul and clog the cat. You may see engine error codes though which may throw you into "limp mode" due to the unexpected airflow drop at certain throttle levels and RPMs. Codes 25, 26 and 34 are the ones to watch for if the car suddenly stops responding beyond 2500 - 3000RPM and runs richer than hell. In this case reset the ECU (by pulling the EFI fuse for 10 seconds) and start driving like a granny. ;)

Great discussion, thanks guys. A side note whatever car they took this out of also had a different oil pan :s cause i got the engine in and that shit wouldnt fit, took it back out and realized the pans were totally different, so finally got the old pump and pan on and dropped it in today, have all the transmission and drive shaft yada hooked up, wondering what the torque specs are for the engine mounts?? i have the cygnus link and i have it on pdf but cant find what the torque specs are for that, dont know how much it matters i'm thinking just make pretty tight.. but if there is a spec to abide by, anyone know it?

If the oil pan and pickup were off center then they're from a Cressida. I thought I covered that... yup, see post #3.

Try this for the torque specs... I'll see if I have anything else saved on my hard drive.

Ok so hooked up the whole wiring harness to there designated locations. Now doing the vacuum hoses under the intake manifold area... anyone got some diagrams of all this stuff? got the EC3 diagram from cygnus already just wondering if there is anything else or perhaps a real image of where they go perhaps, any help is appreciated thanks.

might be satisfied with the hoses for now, but do post an image of what it looks like under your intake if you get a chance. Ok now on the exhaust side, there is a heater hose coming off the block, looking from the passenger side to the far left/ behind the exhaust manifold, where does this heater hose go? On my old engine it is just plugged, but i'm the one that plugged it when it was leaking i think. Now cant remember where it goes. Any help is appreciated, can get pics if needed.

Can't help with pics, my car is a GE+T. You can look at the EPC for the heater hose routing... the coolant hard pipes on JDM MKIIIs (it may have just been a Cressida thing, never got confirmation on that) was different than on the USDM engines, so you may have to get creative.

[strike]Here's the EPC page:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1603&P=2[/strike]



EDIT: whoops, I forgot you're not running a GTE... it's freezing and snowy as... well, a VERY cold, snowy place... outside right now, so no help with pics. As for the coolant hose routing: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1603&P=1 You'll see there that one of the ports on the passenger side is capped.

NOTE: NEVER cap a coolant or oil line if you're deleting it unless you're POSITIVE it is safe to cap. Many hoses which see to serve no purpose are there for a reason... if it was safe to just cap them, Toyota probably would have... for example, there's a hose on the side of the thermostat housing on the N/A, it's a pressure relief; Without it the thermostat could fail to often. Other hoses like this on other vehicles serve as anti-cavation devices (prevents erosion of water pump, water passages and so on). There is also the potential of creating high and low pressure spots in the cooling system... VERY undesirable. Just figured I'd mention this since you brought up the topic.

ok so figured out where the hose went to. It turns out that this may have come out of a RHD car and thus the capped ends on the hardpipe were on dif sides on my two engines. On the new engine it is capped with a metal cap on the driver side. On the old engine it was hose capped on the passenger side and on the driver side a hose went up into the firewall directly above it. I just bought a longer hose and went from passenger side of engine to driver side firewall.

But all in all I got the car running now, working on timing and idle and the such at this moment. Right now i have it idling and i believe at the correct timing. but idle is kinda high-ish.. 900 or so, umm there are still a couple of vacuum lines i gotta figure out what to do with since i deleted the EGR on it. Anyone do an EGR delete before? any info on this would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

And yes CRE I agree, I would never cap a hose unless it was meant to be capped, or of course i was lead to believe it was supposed to for some reason. The cap i put on was capped before, i just had to repair a leak to the old cap, which i'm not certain was supposed to be capped but it's how it was when i got the car, so i would be curious to know if yalls is capped too on the passenger side back of exhaust.

EDIT: ok that second link you posted show's it capped. Thats good to know :p thanks man! appreciate it :D

I'm glad you've got it all running. :bigthumb:

When you fail emissions due to high NOx levels just remember where you threw those EGR components... Cali emissions SUCK! :frown:

Actually, these days most people who actually know how the system works do not recommend removing the EGR system... it's sole purpose is to reduce combustion chamber temps in low throttle conditions. It reduces NOx, reduces engine temp, reduces knock (yes, knock is always there), and keeping the chamber nice and cool may provide better responsiveness when you first mash the pedal. At WOT, the system is OFF... I understand why you pulled it, but for those who think they need to go out of their way to delete it so they'll get some big performance increase, they're quite simply wrong.