some help please

ddmcse · 09-28-2009, 08:17 PM

take the switch apart and sand paper the contacts

vroomvroom · 09-28-2009, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddmcse

take the switch apart and sand paper the contacts

Ive done that twice and it still has not worked....

Both of my switches arent working now.

New switch?

I tested the wires they are fine.

SOLUTIONS??

Krem · 09-28-2009, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vroomvroom

Ive done that twice and it still has not worked....

Both of my switches arent working now.

New switch?

I tested the wires they are fine.

SOLUTIONS??

Certain you didn't fux the window lock when you pulled the unit? If it were just the window, I might suspect the motor for the power windows... but since it spread to both doors while you were tinkering with the unit, I have to think either locked windows, or bad unit... take my suggestions very lightly, however, as I'm the newbie on scene... since I learn thru my mistakes, and people of the internet seem soo willing to fix other's mistakes, I'm sure there's someone here who can correct me when I'm wrong...

FL850 · 09-28-2009, 10:22 PM

Now that both of your windows aren't working test the window motor by: 1.Take apart the door panel, it should be 10 Philips head screws (+) and be careful not to break any of the wire harnesses.
2.Cut away some of the wrapping tape that binds the wires together.
3.Get a battery, preferably 12 volt, as in an electric drill battery.
4.Cut your connector wires enough so you can re-crimp them together again.
5.Touch the positive wire to the positive of the battery, and the negative to the negative of the battery. Also reverse this process so its positive to negative, which reverses the electrical pull.

If this makes your window go down or up, then it is not your window motor.
(Note) This is the cheapest way to test, not the easiest or safest. But, if your short on cash, it will work. I've done it. Also, any voltage battery above 10 volts will work. but do NOT do this process repeatedly or your window motor will be F-ed.

Reconnect your wires by crimping after your troubleshoot is completed. You will have one of two outcomes. One, your window motor will work, Two, it wont. Message me when you have completed this with your outcome. I may be available for assistance on the next step.

FL850 · 09-28-2009, 10:24 PM

To the first poster; Your jack goes in the trunk under the floor mat.

DarkSupra2.5 · 09-28-2009, 10:39 PM

Have you checked the power window circuit breaker on the under dash fuse box? You stick a small screwdriver/needle in it to reset it. Hope you get em workin again.

09-28-2009, 08:17 PM	#1
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	take the switch apart and sand paper the contacts __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

09-28-2009, 10:39 PM	#6
DarkSupra2.5 3" Exhaust Join Date: May 2008 Location: Sacramento Posts: 60	Have you checked the power window circuit breaker on the under dash fuse box? You stick a small screwdriver/needle in it to reset it. Hope you get em workin again. __________________ 1jz-gte swap (Currently spun #3 rod bearings), Apexi high flow filter, Greddy thrust 3" downpipe, N1 3" catback with cat delete tube, 1 peice driveshaft, Bar and Plate intercooler, and 440 JDM 2jz injectors. Possible 2jz lower block swap in the works if I can't rebuild the 1j. So troublesome.

09-28-2009, 10:22 PM	#4
FL850 Stock Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Tallahassee Posts: 7	Now that both of your windows aren't working test the window motor by: 1.Take apart the door panel, it should be 10 Philips head screws (+) and be careful not to break any of the wire harnesses. 2.Cut away some of the wrapping tape that binds the wires together. 3.Get a battery, preferably 12 volt, as in an electric drill battery. 4.Cut your connector wires enough so you can re-crimp them together again. 5.Touch the positive wire to the positive of the battery, and the negative to the negative of the battery. Also reverse this process so its positive to negative, which reverses the electrical pull. If this makes your window go down or up, then it is not your window motor. (Note) This is the cheapest way to test, not the easiest or safest. But, if your short on cash, it will work. I've done it. Also, any voltage battery above 10 volts will work. but do NOT do this process repeatedly or your window motor will be F-ed. Reconnect your wires by crimping after your troubleshoot is completed. You will have one of two outcomes. One, your window motor will work, Two, it wont. Message me when you have completed this with your outcome. I may be available for assistance on the next step.

09-28-2009, 10:24 PM	#5
FL850 Stock Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Tallahassee Posts: 7	To the first poster; Your jack goes in the trunk under the floor mat.