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Old 02-14-2009, 09:21 PM   #1
sd88supra
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Default heater?

yes, the engine was pulled. I'll do a compression test.

But what about the non-working heater?
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-1987 5 spd N/A with TEMS: low miles! All stock with the exception of electric fans and an '89 front bumper, Yokohama 225/50/16 with stock rims. It's a mess and in the garage.

-1987 5 spd Turbo with TEMS: miss-matched tires, needs lots of work, but it runs! Project car.

-1988 N/A auto targa: all stock except 18" rims with Falken 265/35/18 in rear and 225/35/18 in front; daily driver.
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Old 02-14-2009, 10:22 PM   #2
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This is really stupid but just my two cents. I took my res. out once and cleaned it good even replaced the rubber tubing and scrubbed the cap. I accidentally reversed the cap which has the two nozzles so instead of going into the res tank it would shoot out all over the place. Switched the hoses and worked fine.

that prolly wont help lol but im just saying.
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Old 02-15-2009, 06:55 AM   #3
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Engine pulled. Check.

Was it a complete rebuild? Did you or the shop pull the crank & pistons? Are the new pistons stock? Oversized? Same compression ratio?

Was the block deck resurfaced? If so, how much was taken off? Was the head milled also? How much was taken off of it?

Does FelPro make HG's in different thicknesses?

No heat. Check.

No heat = no hot water in heater core *and/or* airflow blocked by debris in ventilation system.

No hot water in heater core = no water flow(control valve(s) not operating) *and/or* no water (air in system.)

No water flow = control valve(s) not operating(firewall hvac and/or thermostat) *and/or* heater control unit not operating (dash unit and/or vacuum actuator)

No water in heater core = incomplete fill and bleed *and/or* leak in cooling system

Incomplete fill and bleed - Did someone forget to have the heater on (heater core valve open) when the system was filled and bled?

The heater hose into the control valve at the back of the engine is higher than the cap. Trapped air here causes lots of problems on the 7M's. Sounds like you're aware of that, though.

Leak in cooling system = internal *and/or* external

No external leaks and all other systems are good (thermostat, radiator, cap, water pump, no collapsed hoses, etc.) = engine is overheating (abnormal timing / fueling) *and/or* there is an internal leak.

Internal leak = water in oil/oil in water *and/or* water in cylinder(s)

Water in oil/oil in water = Milkshake of Death

Water in cylinders = air in cooling system *and/or* cracked head (<1%), cracked block (<0.5%), BHG (98.5%).

Clear as Mud? Check. lol!

Hope that helps. Good luck! Keep us posted.
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89 Turbo Targa 5spd, 18x10 w/275/35/18, 18x9 w/245/40/18, Brembo CD rotors, Hawk pads, SS lines, HKS coilovers, ST sways, 1 pc. AL DS, V3 shifter, RPSmax PP w/HPF ferramic disk, custom crank, Eagle Rods, JE pistons, Ferrea valves, BC 264 cams, Fidanza cam gears, Walbro FP, AFPR, RC660 inj., Blitz SUS, Lexus AFM, SP 47trim CT26, HKS SSQ BOV, 2.5" AL IC pipes/FMIC, Lipp turbo elbow, RT DP, Greddy SP catback, HKS FCD, AEM Uego WB, Apex'i SAFC, Apex'i AVCR, EGT, Fluidyne AL rad, Flexalite fans.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:07 PM   #4
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Default update

Well, I finally had some time to do a little more research, and it occurred to me that the thermostat could be stuck open. So I went to go start the car cold, and sure enough, there was coolant circulation in the upper hose right away. It's raining now, but when it stops I'll go to Toyota to get a new radiator cap and thermostat. I'll give you guys an update after I install them and purge it.
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-1987 5 spd N/A with TEMS: low miles! All stock with the exception of electric fans and an '89 front bumper, Yokohama 225/50/16 with stock rims. It's a mess and in the garage.

-1987 5 spd Turbo with TEMS: miss-matched tires, needs lots of work, but it runs! Project car.

-1988 N/A auto targa: all stock except 18" rims with Falken 265/35/18 in rear and 225/35/18 in front; daily driver.
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Old 02-18-2009, 03:59 AM   #5
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Yep, that could cause a problem. Let's hope that's it.
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89 Turbo Targa 5spd, 18x10 w/275/35/18, 18x9 w/245/40/18, Brembo CD rotors, Hawk pads, SS lines, HKS coilovers, ST sways, 1 pc. AL DS, V3 shifter, RPSmax PP w/HPF ferramic disk, custom crank, Eagle Rods, JE pistons, Ferrea valves, BC 264 cams, Fidanza cam gears, Walbro FP, AFPR, RC660 inj., Blitz SUS, Lexus AFM, SP 47trim CT26, HKS SSQ BOV, 2.5" AL IC pipes/FMIC, Lipp turbo elbow, RT DP, Greddy SP catback, HKS FCD, AEM Uego WB, Apex'i SAFC, Apex'i AVCR, EGT, Fluidyne AL rad, Flexalite fans.
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Old 02-20-2009, 03:14 AM   #6
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Default delayed!

I took off the thermostat housing, and there was no thermostat! Not only that, but the heater core was bypassed! My mechanic supposedly bypassed the heater core because the hose that goes into it was leaking and he couldn't find a replacement so it was a quick fix. At that it was done poorly, I'm more than sure air is getting in through there. So I go on to put in the thermostat, and the bottom bolt broke! So now I have to either drill it out or hammer a flathead screwdriver in to take it out (if any of you have done this before, please let me know how to go about it. I also bought a bolt extractor in case the hammering doesn't work).

I didn't have time to work on it until today, but I was delayed even more because the douchebags at Auto Zone and Kragen don't know how to find that hose without matching it, and I don't have the hose to match it. Does anyone know the diameter size and proper name for it? There's a good picture of it in the BHG repair sticky. The hose goes into the firewall on the driver's side.
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-1987 5 spd N/A with TEMS: low miles! All stock with the exception of electric fans and an '89 front bumper, Yokohama 225/50/16 with stock rims. It's a mess and in the garage.

-1987 5 spd Turbo with TEMS: miss-matched tires, needs lots of work, but it runs! Project car.

-1988 N/A auto targa: all stock except 18" rims with Falken 265/35/18 in rear and 225/35/18 in front; daily driver.
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Old 02-20-2009, 03:57 AM   #7
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Since were talking about radiators and coolant I have a question:

I have one of those pressure release radiator caps, and after a trip to class or home it kinda fizzes out where the release tab meets the metal cap (hard to describe) like someone has a straw blowing bubbles? I bought a new cap yesterday and it still does it. Any clues?

Thanks
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:14 AM   #8
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Is there a difference in the turbo head and the non-turbo head, or are they interchangeable.
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:15 AM   #9
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Default update

Ok, so I got the broken bolt out, and I'm putting everything back together, only I can't get to the heater core outlet hose I need to replace! I tried getting around the EGR, but I have no choice but to remove it. Only neither the Haynes manual nor TSRM explain how to remove it. Where are the bolts I need to take out to remove the EGR valve?
__________________
-1987 5 spd N/A with TEMS: low miles! All stock with the exception of electric fans and an '89 front bumper, Yokohama 225/50/16 with stock rims. It's a mess and in the garage.

-1987 5 spd Turbo with TEMS: miss-matched tires, needs lots of work, but it runs! Project car.

-1988 N/A auto targa: all stock except 18" rims with Falken 265/35/18 in rear and 225/35/18 in front; daily driver.
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:34 AM   #10
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nevermind, I found a diagram.
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-1987 5 spd N/A with TEMS: low miles! All stock with the exception of electric fans and an '89 front bumper, Yokohama 225/50/16 with stock rims. It's a mess and in the garage.

-1987 5 spd Turbo with TEMS: miss-matched tires, needs lots of work, but it runs! Project car.

-1988 N/A auto targa: all stock except 18" rims with Falken 265/35/18 in rear and 225/35/18 in front; daily driver.
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