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Old 07-03-2008, 04:52 PM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chambers View Post
I have heard of people holding decent amounts of power with the stock bottom end, sorry I don't have a number for you, but it would probably be a good idea to put new bearings and piston rings in it before turning the boost up.

You can make good power on the stock CT-26, fast enough for a daily, the money for a new turbo could go towards a better rebuild and even to rebuild your current turbo, thats just my opinion on a new turbo.

Now, if you plan to turn up the boost, new turbo or not, your going to hit fuel cut very quickly, so you will need to invest in some nice A/F controllers, MAFT Pro is a good one to start with.

Hope this helps, good luck.
do not rebuild your old turbo. huge waste of money. they dont last long and your better off buying a new one. suprasport is coming out with a stock replacement turbo with install kit and i think they said eithier a 425hp or/ 475hp. it probably cost like $900
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Old 07-03-2008, 10:40 PM   #2
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Yea, its always better to have a professional re-build a turbo, or just buy a new one. I forgot about that kit from suprasport, that is a nice kit, I think it comes with the upgraded trim so you can pump out more horses, it seems worth the money if thats what you are looking for.
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Old 07-04-2008, 04:53 PM   #3
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i am shopping for an MHG which is the best or should i just get the thickest one they make in a stopper
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Old 07-04-2008, 05:08 PM   #4
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i got the greddy 2.0mm because they had to mill the head twce but it all depends on how much metal is takin off the block and head
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Old 07-04-2008, 06:36 PM   #5
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I would go for a 2mm anyway for a turbo application, the 1.2mm will up your compression a little bit but I cant see it holding up to higher psi. As toneloc87 2 said, it dose depend on how much metal is taken off the block and head as well.

My preference is HKS for a MHG, but its really up to you.

Good luck.
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1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd
1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto
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Old 07-04-2008, 08:40 PM   #6
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well when i talkek to the guy who is going to work my head he said that he wouldnt be taking enough off to make a differance so should i get the stock size or is the 2mm the way to go also witch is better stopper or bead i am over my head here need
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:14 AM   #7
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if he didnt take off any metal, then a gasket of the same thickness as stock will do (1.2mm?). you can get a titanmotorsports mhg, a cometic mhg, hks mhg. dont forget to tell the engine builder to use arp headstuds and get the Roughness Average on the block under 30 or the mhg wont seal right. also, there are shops you can buy upgraded ct26's, alot of people like a 57 trim.

as for the bottom end, i believe there was a guy on sm that hit 700hp on stock internals. however on a daily driven motor that hasnt been rebuilt to spec wont take that abuse, id say maybe 350-400hp at the most and i wouldnt recommend running a setup for this on a weathered motor for very long.
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Old 07-08-2008, 10:51 PM   #8
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Question 7MGE to 1jz

i got a 89 supra 7mge, and i am planning to drop in 1 jz pretty soon, so i was wondering that do i have to replace cross member or what . Additionally how max we can take 1jz to hp wise. with stock motor but after market turbo and front mount inter cooler from grdy.
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:46 PM   #9
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Well you have to determine if your car is early or late 89, if its early then you will need a cross member, if its late 89 then your set. The early 89 has a square engine mount, the late 89 has round engine mount.
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1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd
1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:57 AM   #10
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Default 7mge to 1 jz

i m kinda new to supra, so can u refer me some pic. thanks.
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