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suprakid91 06-25-2008 02:36 PM

bhg
 
starting to tear apart the engine today to do a heat gasket. i have read IHateHacks thread about 3 times. i will probably be back today with some questions on what to do. maybe pics as well to just show the progress. i hope everything goes as good as it can! :x:

(but it never seems to be that way with the supra)

supramacist 06-25-2008 03:59 PM

I'm sure you will find plenty of opinions here to sift through.
Good Luck.

burton51m 06-25-2008 06:33 PM

I replaced mine two weeks ago so my memory is fresh on what to do...let us know about any questions you have and good luck.

suprakid91 06-25-2008 08:04 PM

worth it?
 
eBay Motors: 87-92 3.0L Toyota Supra Turbo 7MGTE 24V Head Gasket Set (item 370062154567 end time Jun-29-08 16:45:13 PDT)

found this on ebay and i am not sure about it. i dont want to do a mhg because i just cant afford it. im not looking for very much power upgrades in the future, maybe exhaust and intake stuff but does this set of gaskets look alright?


also forgot to ask which was better: arp studs or bolts?

Bill UK 06-25-2008 09:00 PM

Don’t waste your time or money; go for a Toyota Head gasket and ARP studs. I wouldn’t even conceder using the other gaskets in that set. Can you imaging using the valve stem oil seals and then finding out that there’s clouds of smoke pouring out of the exhaust every time you start her up. Doing a BHG isn't going to be cheap, but buying good quality products minimises the risk of it happening again. There's plenty of negative feed back on other forums where guys have used cheap ebay gaskets, one described them as made from papier-m?ch?. (That’s newspaper mashed into a pulp with water. Probably what Toyota made the head from no doubt?

supramacist 06-25-2008 11:45 PM

I agree with bill here.

The least you should do is a toyota oem replacement gasket and still use ARP studs.

If you can't afford to do this right for as close to a permanent fix as possible...., I wonder how you intend to keep it on the road at all.

Because cutting corners is nothing more than a band aid and a cheap off brand of at that.

suprakid91 06-26-2008 03:22 AM

Well to me, this seems to be the best option, for a few reasons:
1. its cheap
2. if it turns out that its bad i can return it for a refund (minus S&H)
3. if it does work, i just saved my self over $120

plus, some of you may say "don't go cheap" but lets say it is cheap and horrible and all this other bad stuff you guys say.... it was $50. thats it. and in that $50 I've already taken apart and rebuilt the engine (basically) so the next time i do it (if i even have to) would go even faster.

I've already bought over $120 worth of gaskets that im gonna have to replace for this stupid head gasket... 120+120=240 just for exhaust gaskets.... or... 120+50= 170.

And just because it doesn't have "TOYOTA" printed all over doesn't mean its bad, and just because its from eBay doesn't mean its bad. everyone has heard horror stories about gaskets and fix it fast schemes but sometimes its just worth it to try the cheaper way.

AND i realize all you guys are trying to help me and just giving me advice and i do value what you have already given me so don't think im disses your professional opinion, im just stated my case and why i think the way i do

supramacist 06-26-2008 04:34 AM

Most people that care about there cars spend upwards of 2 grand do what you did for 300.

You would have been better off buying an ounce of really killer weed and smoking it.

You choose to learn the hard way. That's your call.
It's hard to learn anything new when you already know everything.

If you didn't machine the head and at minimum lap your block. You have managed to nail the casket shut.

It's not our fault that you bought a car that you can't afford to maintain properly.

With a 50$ hg. you may as well not even bother with ARP. You threw a bandaid on a sucking chest wound.

You could have gone to o'riellys and bought a felpro '' cheap'' upper gasket set for under 12 bucks. If you're going to waste everyones time atleast committ to doing that much right.

toneloc87 2 06-26-2008 05:00 AM

ya never know what crack head made thoose pos gaskets at least when you get quality parts you wont have to worry bout having to do everything over again. and dont forget to torque thoose arp studs to 80ft/lbs if i remember correctly

supramacist 06-26-2008 05:24 AM

This kids car is going to be far less tolerant than anyone here.

He just isn't with it enough to know the facts.

He'll be lucky if it makes it through 1 test drive.

I'd bet he walks home or pulls in with it smoking. The upside is he won't have to walk but maybe a block. If it does hold. You can bet it won't hold for long. That's if it even starts when he thinks he's done.

Then he'll remember the day he came in here and biotched and moaned about buying toyota parts.., quite vividly.

suprakid91 06-26-2008 04:09 PM

well sorry for pissing you guys off but i am going to go to toyota and spend some money there instead of buying ebay stuff. planning on buying all oem gaskets from toyota so i dont have any problems like you guys said. so thanks for the advice and kinda kickin my ass for even thinking about buying that cheap stuff. i was tired last night and stuff was making me mad so i pretty much just ranted on about stuff. so sorry guys.

supramacist 06-26-2008 05:11 PM

You're still doing a questionable fix with toyota oem dude.

You're atleast doing the community minimum. Which is better than where you were going.

Congrats....., you may have just arrived.

EDIT: No one was mad at you man. You just have alot to learn with this car. It's a breed of its' own.

toneloc87 2 06-26-2008 11:01 PM

cheers to that

suprakid91 07-09-2008 05:59 PM

been busy
 
got a lot of work done yesterday with 4 hours and a buddy helping me. got almost everything off that needs to come off before take the cam covers off and un bolt everthing except the turbo and exhaust stuff. i am having a bit of a hard time getting the rear belt off. i also broke (yes, completely shattered a 3/8 in. ratchet) trying to get off the crank bolt. but i have a neighbor who has every tool on the planet, so i asked for a 3/4 in. breaker bar and it came off with easy. anyways... how do i loosen the rear belt on the crank pulley to get it off? is there a tensioner that needs to be loosened up? i looked and loosened a few bolts but marked where they were in case it moved but nothing happened. so i am stumped.


on a side note... i figured out the previous owner had someone or did the hg himself because everything still has marks on it. should be interesting to see what i find.

supramacist 07-09-2008 08:37 PM

You can adjust the power steering pump toward the pulley and get it off.
It's always a bit tough any way.

You need to slow down and take your time because if you have missed this. There is no telling what else you have over looked. IF your buddy isn't there to help it go together agian. You're going to have blind spots when doing so.

suprakid91 07-09-2008 10:01 PM

he will be with me for the rest of the tear apart and putting it back together. i got it off shortly after posting. so its all good now. i will post some pics up of the progress when i get time to take them.

thanks for the reply supramacist. much appreciated.

supramacist 07-10-2008 04:11 AM

NO problem. That 1 belt is always the hardest. The power steering pump never seems to want to move far enough.

Take lots of pictures and label all of the individual bolts as to where they came from.

Sound like you're doing a good job.

suprakid91 07-10-2008 04:22 AM

yeah i have been putting all the nuts,bolts, and everything else in plastic sandwich bags and labeling where they go. also am drawing pics of where they all go on the bag. will try to post up the pics tomorrow afternoon as i just got home from work now.

suprakid91 07-11-2008 03:00 AM

turbo oil pipe????
 
what is the best or.. easiest way of getting off the turbo oil pipe from the turbo. i got it off once before when i had a vehicle lift and a ton of extensions for a ratchet. im stumped. help?

paulmicin 07-11-2008 03:10 AM

Bishop's 92T Supra Page

supramacist 07-11-2008 05:35 AM

I'm an N/A. Can't help ya.

Sorry.

suprakid91 08-18-2008 08:27 PM

head is off
 
it looks terrible. the gasket is completely gone. im very surprised it lasted as long as it did. it came apart when i took the head off. i found where it blew though. cylinders 3 and 4. ill try to get some pics of the progression of the tear down and then some of how bad it is. anyone know of a place that machines and checks everything on the head in or around Anoka Minnesota?

ddmcse 08-19-2008 11:25 AM

now is the time to add a gutted turbo elbow . see that brick wall inside the stock elbow coming off the turbo ?

imagine what the flow would be like with that wall removed and a 3 inches wide open downpipe without a Pre Cat stuffed in it .
a no brainer modification for the gte

suprakid91 08-29-2008 01:18 AM

yeah... if only ddm. i would if i had extra money to spend. haha. danm lapping takes a hell of a long time.

suprakid91 08-29-2008 06:08 PM

http://a582.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...d7918dce35.jpg


this is pretty much what i got. it looks a lot better now. this pic was from about 4 days ago. have been lapping the hell out of it since then. still need to find a place that does head work though. its not very easy here in minnesota. not many people want want to even deal with imports. they are all classic muscle guys.

Busted Knuckles 08-30-2008 02:05 AM

It looks good, tho.

Quick question: Can you still remove the head without removing the studs if you go with ARP studs? I had Toyota Hi-lux 22-R, but was told that you have to remove the studs to get the head on and off while in the truck. The head gasket was replaced on my N/A Supra before I got it, and it is currently running great. But, with 245K miles on it, I'm planning on rebuilding the motor once I can take it off daily-driver duties. I'm planning some big changes to it to get to a 500 HP street fighter. Maybe more if I can afford it. There are a couple of nice drag tracks and road courses around here I'd like to take it to.

Bill UK 08-30-2008 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles (Post 62499)
Quick question: Can you still remove the head without removing the studs if you go with ARP studs?

Quick answer No, the suds are 1"longer than the stock bolt. The head catches on the bulkhead when you lift it up. The idea is you unscrew the stud with a 5.00 mm hexagon wrench. I've just fitted some today, did a drawing to show the comparison.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...f/ARPStuds.jpg


http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...StudsBlock.jpg

suprakid91 09-17-2008 12:59 AM

http://a829.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...5f8d954ad4.jpg

http://a303.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...0f0d600bde.jpg




ok. as im putting everything back on the intake side and this fall on the ground. i have pretty much no clue where it fell from because i didn't see where it fell. if anyone has anything on where the two ends of the vacuum likes run to i would be very thankful. everything is almost all back together. just have a bunch of sensors and the exhaust/ turbo to put back on. and thats pretty easy. ha.

thanks guys. hope i get replys soon. i want this thing to be done finally.

mitch

Bill UK 09-17-2008 01:41 PM

This may help, ignore the small red cross in the last picture, that was used to explain something else. As you can see they are bolted to the inlet manifold,
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/4006.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...f/DSCF3411.jpg

Bill UK 09-17-2008 06:08 PM

The one in your photo has a bent fixing bracket, so that would be on the left hand side looking at the drawing and pic.

Bill UK 09-17-2008 06:21 PM

Correction! the pipe in your top photo has the same metal pipe as the one on the right in the drawing. Toyota identify them “Vacuum Switching Assy” They have different part numbers, the difference may only be the shape of the bracket though.

suprakid91 09-20-2008 09:33 PM

well....
 
i am awaiting a dead battery to charge. after 4 months of sitting it was completely dead. it starts to like hiccup ever now and then and when it does turn over though, its really odd. sometimes it almost screeches and sounds like air is coming out of somewhere after that. im really confused and frustrated. ill keep you guys posted on how it goes after i get the battery charged and hopefully running.

suprakid91 09-20-2008 10:50 PM

ok so it started to run and it still makes a really annoying noise thats like a high whistle/ screeching when the engine is running. it also runs really rough and doesn't idle on its own. i have to keep it going. when it stops it sounds like a dieing bird. i am going to try to link a video of it as soon as possible on youtube.

suprakid91 09-20-2008 10:57 PM

this is the link of the video
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJt-XVhofCA

please if anyone can give anything on what it might be or where it might be coming from. i would thank you.

suprakid91 09-21-2008 07:59 PM

anyone?
 
nobody has any idea? the video quality is really bad and you cant really hear anything cuz its off my phone but i really neeed to know what it is. it sounds like a whistling tea pot. or something like that coming from the front fuel pressure regulator or the alternator?

Grandavi 09-22-2008 06:00 PM

Couldn't hear it, but would guess its either coming from a perforated hose or bad gasket. I dont know of an easy way to find it either, other than looking carefully at the whole system in that general area. (unless someone has a simple technique... I solve this by pulling off hoses and taking a close look at what they are attached to. It can be a long process.)

Never heard anyone suggest this, but try soapy water, wipe the hoses you suspect making sure they are wet. Then see if you can see any bubbles. (you will need to do it on a cooler engine if your going to try it on the block itself).

This is a hard one to do from a 1000 km away... all we can do is guess with the information at hand. (of course.. Im not a mechanic, just suggesting things)

suprakid91 09-22-2008 08:45 PM

thanks grandavi. i am also going to try using smoke to see if i can locate anything. my grandpa actually suggested it cause thats what he did back in the day when he rebuilt engines to find leaks and stuff.

Grandavi 09-22-2008 09:30 PM

I think you need to take the fan off to use smoke.. unless your talking whacky tabacky... :yum:

suprakid91 09-23-2008 03:40 AM

haha no. no wacky tabacky for me... gotta get another job. :) i am going to use smoke form cardboard or a cigarette. but i don't wanna wast mine. ha. i still dont know where its coming from though. its really odd. i have never heard anything like it on any engine.

Grandavi 09-23-2008 01:55 PM

When I rebuilt the engine in a 1972 Corolla (my first car) I did an excellent job except for one thing. If you have ever rebuilt a motor and replaced the bearings, you will know what Im talking about...
I overbored the motor (being 16 I though.. more CC.. more power) and pretty well replaced everything inside the motor (except the valves, I just reground them) Slapped it all together and took it out.
Being 16... again... what's the first thing a guy would do? Race the car! Got it up to 92 MPH and started to hear a very loud knock. Took it in to a mechanic and he said... oil pump shot. So, I pulled the engine (loved that Corolla everything was small) and flipped it over. Oil pump was fine.

The one thing I did wrong (other than being 16 and racing a freshly rebuilt engine) was I put the thrust bearings in backwards. Easy mistake to make if its your first engine... but had to say goodbye to the engine because that little mistake destroyed the crank and the block... lol. Live and learn.

So, I'm wondering, maybe that squeal isn't a leak. (just a thought)

Oh yeah.. when I was 22, UPS showed up with my brain... (about time!!!).


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