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No prob, But pretty simple. I just used the compression testr' hose. What you need to do is popp off the gauge and hook up the air. Now there is a little nozzle in the end to keep air in (like a tire or bicycle stem nozzle). So instead of getting another hose I just got some small tweezers and you basically can just screw it out. I dont actually remember the size of the fittings (i just have a ton laying around) so just play around but I know advance auto parts has the right fitting.
Dont loose the little nozzle, but if you do its the same nozzle as in a tire's stem. (you just might have a pain in the ass fitting it or finding the right size) |
no start and knock problems
Hey Zack, just to put my two cents in;
If you can wiggle the wire and you get started I would suspect a corroded connection at the cam sensor. Unplug the connector at the sensor and check for corrosion and clean as needed. As for the harness, it's easy to trace continuity in the wires with an ohm-meter. When did you notice the knock? Has it been there since you got the car or is it something new? Is it a hard, heavy knock, light and intermittent, does it occur every cam sequence or crank sequence? Give a little (or a lot)more info, i.e. describe the noise in detail for we cannot hear or see what you hear and see. As for those who want to call you on the carpet for not turning your own wrenches, thank god you have a job and are a responsible person! Hope this helps. C. |
Having a job and being a responsible person isn't going to push the car down the road.
Having dilligence, strong work ethic, patience and an a$$ load of tools helps much more :). A job is par for the course. A pre-requisit if you will. So that doesn't help him any more than anyone else. How about someone explains how to clean this mess so no one goes using water or carb cleaner. Compressed air will be a must with out an air compressor. |
Start and knock problem
All good points, as I said, just putting in my two cents.
1000 whp? Please describe in detail how you accomplished this. |
That's some stuff the forum throws up as standard issue.
You'll see people say things like stock and intake and eventually it'll say aem electronics. People are always asking about it and I can't get it to change. |
yea I found out that its the cam sensor connect. Diagnosis would show no signals from it. Then jiggle wires, reset stored codes, start car, then do another diagnosis codes gone. Connector good just the wire attached looks shitty. hoping just a re-wire solve it.
I did not have the knock when I got the car like, 10 months ago. also no egr vac modulator. After i replaced that with a used from ebay maybe a few months later it started. YouTube - Supra Knock? This is what is sounds like. Only between 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm |
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For every 1 thing you fix on these cars. 2 more things go wrong. |
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Sounds like you are getting close to the heart of the matter spudz. For every 1 thing you fix. 2 more are surely to break. The only way I can get a leg up on my car is to work 3 days straight on it with no rest. Then when I do rest and come back, the supra gremlins had made well oiled use of their time. |
thats what im afraid of. Especially since its the cam position sensor. If that thing messes up it can cause a whole heep of problems if not carful.
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