yea cool...i got 7mgte so i just got the single and the 3000 pipe..but i dont even know if i am going to remove the intake side since its only loudest on exhaust side..

but yea i did my reading so i see whats going on in there...IF i do have to replace something excluding valves...you know a good place for them besides toyota...(i like my left leg still attatched)

No ideas about where you are at.

I'd start calling speed shops and local parts stores and see who it is that they use.

I'd just start with the exhaust side. Wait until yo see what's going on before you start looking for sources, a chewed up shim can be had from a Yamaha dealer for just a couple bucks, but the cam shaft that it murdered would be cheapest to source used and then have polished if needed.

When you reinstall the valve covers do NOT over torque them! The spec is for 22 INCH lbs... not 22 ft. lbs. Too much and you can warp them and then they never seal right.

No need to drain the oil when pulling the valve covers. Just clean the engine around them so you're not knocking 20 years worth of grit into the engine.

Okay guys I have bad news bears. I may have found the issue of over half my problems.

Alright, so got home from school parked the car and did my compression test.( before I ripp anything apart )

Tests are as follow:
Cylinder: PSI:
1 160
2 170/175 (probably cause I cranked it once more than others)
3 160
4 130 (also did wet test came to about 162 PSI)
5 60 (wtf....fuck wet test)
6 170/175 (same as cylinder 2)

Cylinder 4 & 5 readings were shit. I didnt bother doing wet test on 5 it was so low I just got pissed. The high readings are because JDM engine might of had head shaved for install, but IDK (swap done from prev owner). Or just a ton of carbon build.

Results show two adjacent cylinders low as hell, probable cause HG blown. Or my rings are shot. But then again who knows because thats where my loud valve noise is comming from.

But I am taking my car to my bro-in-law house and putting compressed air to those cylinders I guess the "leak down" test. We are going to see where the air is comming out at. Radiator cap, oil cap, etc. To further diagnosis these two cylinders. But ill post back our results. :frown:

Alright, went over to my bro-in-laws house and did the leak down test. Since the rest of the cylinders were fine I only tested cylinders 4 & 5.

Cylinder 4 seemed to be okay. We could not pin-point escaping air with oild cap off but since the dry test came up 130PSI and wet test 160PSI we did not worry that much.

On to cylinder 5. This one was horrible 60PSI on dry test I knew this one would be the worst. Hooked up air to the cylinder popped the oil cap, and swishoosh tons of air comming out of oil cap. Rings are shit, but I dont really care still drivable. At least until I get some finance up for either re-build or new reman block/engine.

BHG test were inconclusive. Ran the engine at idle with radiator cap off and topped off the coolant. Had some bubbling on and off but not enough to just flat out say BHG.

Also had some excess moisture in exhaust, but still to little to say BHG.

We are thinking about getting a reman'd short block and dropping it in over a weekend or two. I would say its much less of a hassle then ripping apart the motor just to fix some rings. Stupid toyota and thier lies, double rings just fuck up everything.

that sucks man, glad my compression test didnt turn up anything evil like that ;(

Not much of a mechanic but maybe we can meet up, im not too far outside of columbia. Would like to see an engine pulled apart for when i have to do mine lol

Im doing some carbon cleaner, got some sea foam in the gas.

Question, its my first turbo and I want to do some carb cleaner. I take it you cant take off piping or it will just stall. And im def not going to spray it in or around the MAF. I read it has to be done in a vacuum line.

If this is so which is the best one to spray in?

Your car has a carberator?

My pipe does but not my car.

Seafoam is nasty stuff and doesn't do as well as it boasts.
Step in the right direction though.

I had a guy ask me once why his shit was'nt working.
He just got done tuning it up and topping off the fluids.

Long story short the turbo is not a fluid reservior.

I'm an n/a. I don't do turbo questions to avoid giving out garbage 411.

Yea I hear ya. Sea foam has a nice rep. The only other good rep one I heard is GM's fuel additive, so idk yet.

I have alot of oil in my IC piping and also the EGR recirculating into the intake manifold. So I was hoping throwing some carb cleaner might clear up some oil gunk and carbon gunk that is probably building up in the manifold or throttle body. Also get some junk off the Intake valves.

With some of the rings shot, and the EGR recirculating I was just guessing there was some nasty crap in there. It needs to be sprayed into one of the vacuum lines on the throttle body, just seeing which is the best one.

Dexcron Mercron

ATF.

Try it as a fuel additive. It's far better than sea foam and cost much less.

EDIT: If you aren't using premium. You're only lubing your fi system.

Wich is fine after you burn it out with a tank of premium.

You'll smoke a bit. Some say that the dexcron reduces the smoke more so than
just good ol regular atf.

I personally never thought it made anything smoke bad enough to worry about it.
I have done this in many autos.

Hey, just wanted to ask what kind of fitting you used to hook up compressed air to the cylinder.

No prob, But pretty simple. I just used the compression testr' hose. What you need to do is popp off the gauge and hook up the air. Now there is a little nozzle in the end to keep air in (like a tire or bicycle stem nozzle). So instead of getting another hose I just got some small tweezers and you basically can just screw it out. I dont actually remember the size of the fittings (i just have a ton laying around) so just play around but I know advance auto parts has the right fitting.

Dont loose the little nozzle, but if you do its the same nozzle as in a tire's stem. (you just might have a pain in the ass fitting it or finding the right size)

no start and knock problems
 

Hey Zack, just to put my two cents in;

If you can wiggle the wire and you get started I would suspect a corroded connection at the cam sensor. Unplug the connector at the sensor and check for corrosion and clean as needed. As for the harness, it's easy to trace continuity in the wires with an ohm-meter.

When did you notice the knock? Has it been there since you got the car or is it something new? Is it a hard, heavy knock, light and intermittent, does it occur every cam sequence or crank sequence? Give a little (or a lot)more info, i.e. describe the noise in detail for we cannot hear or see what you hear and see.

As for those who want to call you on the carpet for not turning your own wrenches, thank god you have a job and are a responsible person!

Hope this helps.
C.

Having a job and being a responsible person isn't going to push the car down the road.

Having dilligence, strong work ethic, patience and an a$$ load of tools helps much more :).

A job is par for the course. A pre-requisit if you will. So that doesn't help him any more than anyone else.

How about someone explains how to clean this mess so no one goes using water or carb cleaner. Compressed air will be a must with out an air compressor.

Start and knock problem
 

All good points, as I said, just putting in my two cents.

1000 whp? Please describe in detail how you accomplished this.

That's some stuff the forum throws up as standard issue.

You'll see people say things like stock and intake and eventually it'll say aem electronics.

People are always asking about it and I can't get it to change.

yea I found out that its the cam sensor connect. Diagnosis would show no signals from it. Then jiggle wires, reset stored codes, start car, then do another diagnosis codes gone. Connector good just the wire attached looks shitty. hoping just a re-wire solve it.

I did not have the knock when I got the car like, 10 months ago. also no egr vac modulator. After i replaced that with a used from ebay maybe a few months later it started.

YouTube - Supra Knock? This is what is sounds like. Only between 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm

See now you're getting the puzzle pieces you need.
For every 1 thing you fix on these cars.
2 more things go wrong.

Sounds like you are getting close to the heart of the matter spudz.
For every 1 thing you fix.
2 more are surely to break.

The only way I can get a leg up on my car is to work 3 days straight on it with no rest.

Then when I do rest and come back, the supra gremlins had made well oiled use of their time.

thats what im afraid of. Especially since its the cam position sensor. If that thing messes up it can cause a whole heep of problems if not carful.

I had 1 thing go wrong and by the time I finished poking and prodding I have a list now.

It never ever seems to fail.

These cars cover up so well until they break.

you-tube engine knock
 

OK, my next two cents goes toward a cam follower knock, that is, the knock sounds to me like it's coming from the head, not the block. Although it's not easy to diagnose from a video and because I don't know exactly what yours sounds like, I can't say %100 that this is the cause but if I were to bet, I would say it definately sounds like something in the head.
Since Supra cam followers are solid type and not hydraulic, only two possibilities arise, either there is too much clearence between the cam lobe and the follower or you may have a valve that is slightly sticking. If the valve is sticking you could try some marvel mystery oil. If clearance is the issue, you've either got a worn cam lobe or follower shim or a combination of two.

Of course, I could be totally wrong and you might have a bad piston pin.
In that case, time for a new motor.

its in the head, i know that, loudest at exhaust side valve cover

Help
 

Ran a EFI Diagnosis?

The ignitors should be grand says: you haven't checked them yet.

Please do.