Alright sorry about the arguing, but lets be adults and put the differences behind us and focus at the subject at hand...(its called stress and it came out and now i have calmed down, got a beer so lets talk)

So belive me..im done, and your advice and tips are much appreciated...Thanks

Ok i guess im going to factor out spark knock and this is exactly what is sounds like but i do not have the noise at idle..just on rev starting at 2grand....YouTube - Supra Knock?

if you think this is rod knock, im going to pull the oil pan this weekend and check the bearings

PS. I know this is off subject but, my seals and bearings are shot in my turbo and i was researching rebuild kits, and found this site. The have complete reman ct26 turbo with brand new CHRA as of march and you can even upgrade your trim sizes just a cool site i would share. Home

Thanks for making my point exactly.
Frankenstiening the head to the block.
Good lord. You can't expect that to last. That's normally the weakest part of the engine.

If your block is toast your car is grounded.

I'm trying to help you man, but you don't want to see that it's your thought process that is part of your problem. You're not fixing anything and when you're actually faced with fixing it instead of bandaids that don't do anything for these cars the price tag and the time are going to be much more massive and time consuming than they are right now.

I'm sorry we got off on the wrong foot man.
But you came in here running your suck about our inefficiencies as a collective.

Maybe you can visualize an easier road to tow. I'm not allowed to act like I'm acting right now in here but I believe in this forum and all of its members. I'll stand up all day for these guys. Even you man. Some toyota mechanics still follow the wrong torque specs on cars from 1985 because the tsrm is printed wrong.

If a toyota tech can make that error. Your master tech probably has as well. Unless you have pre-exponentially enlightened him such as you have me today.

No you see i wasnt trying to offend anyone..i just got defensive and im putting my foot in my mouth...

My bro-in-law is master tech at chevy, expertise in diagnosis...so his opinions are quite brief and usually only for small things..

thats what im talking about i need some tips...okay, bought used 7m motor and when i got it did some test before dropping it in...major crack in block..the company sent me another engine for free and told me to keep the old one (two engines for the price of one! lol) so here and there i have taken parts off it. if it is the same engine why can i not take the head off the not used one rebuild and mount to the block thats in my car now?

Wow... So... wanna wrestle?






Just kidding. Seriously though, you wouldn't happen to be manic would you? Take some time with your posts and break up those paragraphs some more. You're posting way more than needed and most of it's repetitive.

Double check the codes, sometimes it takes a while for the ECU to store them.

How's your oil pressure at 2K and how is it from 3K on up? What weight oil do you have in the car?

Has anyone used a stethoscope to try and track down where the noise is coming from?

Has anyone checked to rule out an exhaust leak where the manifold bolts to the head? From 2K to 2.5K the 7M is at it's worst where harmonic resonance is concerned. Exhaust leaks in that spot typically sound like a knock and are the loudest in that RPM range.

When the timing was verified, did they just check the advance or did they check to ensure the timing was mechanically correct (two very different things)?




Lastly, the hand tight and 1/4 turn thing is garbage... tighten them to spec and be sure it's done right. Over do it and you'll be looking for a new head.




EDIT: Who said you couldn't swap the heads? Just have the new one check to be sure it's flat and have a hardness test done. The hardness test is a must since you don't know if the block was crack from shipping or the engine being run into the ground.

LOL nope but I have a bad case of insomnia and addicted to adderall.

Funny thing you should mention oil pressure. I have 2 gauges one in the dash cluster and another aftermarket mounted next to shifter.

Dash cluster has never worked and aftermarket one never has correct readings it just fluctuates rapidly then will sit steady then go crazy again. Its the OilPresSender connection i think its gone bad.

Timing checked mechanica

And no since its my first day trying to diagnos this knock i have yet to listen. I did a redneck check put screwdriver on valve covers rev'd it up and it didnt seem to be louder.

Edit: Oh the wieght i use is 20w-50 i live down in South Carolina and trust me one of the hottest places in america 100 degree weather with 95% humidity...feels like 120 degrees..

Please don't make me drag out the tsrm man.

I don't know where at in there I read it but I know I read it in tsrm to finger tighten and then a quarter turn to tighten. I assumed that was to the right.

I'm sure it is. Is there a different way?
And if so what the H?

Spudz. I'm sorry as well. We are all here to learn ^^^^^.

You can cut off the ends of a wooden broom handle and touch it to the engine and your temple and hear inside as well also.

Cause we don't all carry steths like cre does.:gotnos:

13ft. lbs for the spark plugs.

I don't carry a stethoscope everywhere I go... just out to the garage and on first dates... it helps qualify the girls limits real fast. :eek3:

i guess im going to track down the sound tom. but it does sound like that youtube video

i will have to make a stop tom. also i think i will rob the hospital and get some steth's

The gauntlet has been thrown down my friend.

I'll find it. Oh yes. And when I do you're going to hear about it cre.

I think you're so damn good, you make shite up as you go along and it just sounds transcendent.

You're telling me I didn't get this from my tsrm???? Hmmmmm
are ya are ya???:squint: