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-   -   car cranks, but no fuel or spark (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/11276-car-cranks-but-no-fuel-or-spark.html)

mustangtw5901 04-28-2008 05:58 PM

car cranks, but no fuel or spark
 
Hi, I just bought a 1987 supra turbo 5spd and it dosent run. I am working on it, trying to diagnose the problem, but am having some difficulties. What I know is that the engine is not getting fuel or spark. When I turn the ignition on I do not hear the fuel pump run and the check engine light does not illuminate. The engine will crank over. I have checked all the fuses/relays and they all are ok. When I try to jump the fuel pump at the diagnostic port (b+ and fp), the fuel pump does not turn on. I have no power at b+ in the diagnostic port. When I run a jumper from the positive battery terminal to the fp port in the diagnostic box the fuel pump works. At the ecu I have power at the batt terminal and e1, but no power between e1 and +B, e1 and +B1, and e1 and IG SW. I have no power also when going to body ground instead of e1. So does anyone have a clue what problem this might be? I am thinking either ECU or ignition switch? Do these go bad often? Thanks for any help.

cre 04-28-2008 06:22 PM

Double check the main EFI relay and test the ignition switch via the harness connection underneath the switch beside the steering column. B+ would still have power if the ECU were dead.

mustangtw5901 04-28-2008 06:42 PM

Do you have link to, or can you tell me the proceadure for testing the ignition switch? I cant seem to find it on the online tsrm for the 87. Thanks.

cre 04-28-2008 06:52 PM

I'm at work right now so I don't have my '88 TEWD and TSRM with me. You need to find out the wire colors for IG1 (Black/White) and IG2 (Black/Orange) and test those for continuity with the switch turned and with it just in the "ON" position. IG2 is the main suspect. Both should show 12v when tested against ground.

MK3 TEWD On-Line

mustangtw5901 04-28-2008 10:26 PM

Ok, thanks for the help. I think I found and knocked out the main problem of no power to the ecu or B+ in the diagnostic port. It turns out the IGN 7.5 amp fuse in the driver under dash fuse pannel wasent making good enough contact in the socket so I bent the blades a little so now it fits snug. So check engine light is back on and working and now i have power at B+ and at the ig sw at the ecu. I also have 10.8vs at the fuel pump while cranking, so I guess that means I have fuel going to the motor. My problem now is that I still have no spark.

supramacist 04-28-2008 10:33 PM

Meter the ignitor.

jdpartridge05 04-29-2008 01:43 AM

try this...same thing happened to me i checked and tried everything but it was my alarm. i just had to d/c the battery for about a min then reconnect and it started.

cre 04-29-2008 01:51 AM

Factory alarm wiring cuts the starter... so it wouldn't be cranking. Good thought though.

mustangtw5901 04-30-2008 12:56 AM

Well, here is the latest update. I decided to start with checking the cam sensor and I think I found a problem. When I test the pickup coils for resistance as per the tsrm, I have all the correct readings except between plug terminal NE and G. Between G1 and G I had 174 ohms and between G2 and G i also had around 175 ohms. But when I checked NE and G I had an OL reading on the meter indicating excessive resistance or even an open. So I figure this can't be good and head to the local junk yard to find a cam sensor. Luckly I found one, but it looked in worse condition then mine. I bought it thinking I can make one good one out of both. The ohms checked ok on the junk yard unit so I swaped the internals into my housing. I am going to test it out tommrrow and I'll let you all know how it goes. If it still dosent start, then I guess I'll move on to the ignitor. Do you all think that my problem with the cam sensor could prevent the car from getting spark? And also, now that the resistance readings are ok, can the sensor still be faulty? Thanks

cre 04-30-2008 01:14 AM

Wow, you really should have a code 12 and 13 stored in the ECU. I'm quite sure that no NE signal would kill the ignition sequence.

mustangtw5901 04-30-2008 01:47 AM

Yes, I do have code 12 stored. I was able to check for codes after I got the problem with the ign 7.5amp fuse worked out and was able to get the computer back online. Thats another reason I wanted to start at the cam sensor first.

supramacist 04-30-2008 05:01 AM

Exactly.

We should give you one of them fancy sm badges.
you could be..

toyota-supra.info/specialist tech to advanced product research and developement all things 7m series oil and lubricant code 51 fix'n fire in the
hole havin toyota-supra.info/ specialist badge.

:wtc:I"m glad your back man:wtc:

Makes me want to sing..., why do birds.
suddenly appear. Every, time. You draw near;

Need I go on:confused::frown::squint:

cre 04-30-2008 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supramacist (Post 58033)
why do birds.
suddenly appear. Every, time. You draw near;

We drive Supras... hello? Birdcage? But yeah, in my case the bird's plenty happy where he lives and the rest are jealous. :D

supramacist 04-30-2008 05:40 AM

???huh?????

mustangtw5901 04-30-2008 06:23 PM

Supra is back running again, after I put in the new cam sensor she started right up. Its running a little rough, but its been sitting for a year and still needs a few of the bugs worked out. I would still be chasing my tail without this forum. I would like to thank cre and all others who helped me out.

cre 04-30-2008 07:23 PM

The rough running could be due to old gas if it's been sitting in the tank the whole time. Some recommend adding a can of "Heat" or you can just top it off and run it out.

mustangtw5901 04-30-2008 07:36 PM

Yea, thats what I figured, the gas is pretty old. I will probably put an additive and top it off with fresh 93.

cre 04-30-2008 07:48 PM

If you've got a half tank or less just fill it up with 87 octane and just push it too hard. Forget the additives.... at least that's my advice.

EDIT: Actually if you have a 1/4 tank or more go a head and fill it up with 87, if you've 3/4 of a tank top it off with 85. If you do put in an additive do NOT use anything which increase the octane... you need something that's easier to burn not harder.


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