Timing question.

IHateHacks · 04-24-2008, 08:12 PM

Fact: You had your TPS off of your car before.

Fact: You have code 51.

Fact: Your code 51 is 100% related to you taking off the TPS.

Give this a whirl: Loosen the TPS mounting screws and move the TPS adjustment out counter clockwise while it is running. Wait a few seconds, and see if the code is gone.

Check out this thread, pay attention to post #9. And #10.

HELP! my engine warms up in reverse order - SupraMania

cre · 04-24-2008, 08:21 PM

I doubt this is the case but...

Code 51 is also related to the A/C system which you've removed from the vehicle. If errant currant is entering the A/C signal line to the ECU this too can cause a code 51. The solution here is to ground the A/C signal line to the ECU. (sorry I don't recall specifically which line it is though)

supramacist · 04-24-2008, 10:22 PM

Alright here's where I sit. I'm adding these pics just so you guys can see where I'm working.

I had the timing set where I wanted it at idle. Now the dizzy is still max'd out. So I went to the idle screw. Minor babystep adjustment and then a re tweak of the dizzy to not have it bottomed out and I was in.

No more codes. The idle is on. Short test drive. Pull codes..., all's well.
1 more test drive. Now I can tell that the idle up for parking lot turns is working. I find myself having to rev the engine a few times to get it to quill back to base line. I make it home and it's reving at 2k rpms again.

And I'm right back to starting over. I'm closing in on it. I just need to grind it out and the 51 will be gone.

But...., why the hell does it keep coming back after a decent miles worth of test drive???? That's my problem.

Edit. I guess the dashpot is the piece in the 2nd pic. Yes, no? Well that thing Has been cleaned off and I don't think it's as springy as it should be. It seems better after I covered everything and applied pb blaster. BUt it's noticabley slow at going in and out.

supramacist · 04-24-2008, 11:08 PM

Alright. I'm back to it go and get the base line set again and get rid of the 51.

Once I get this bitch starting and running and timed. I'm not going to test drive it. Something bigger is still going on.

EDIT: Thanks for that link HH. Helpful, very.

cre · 04-24-2008, 11:36 PM

The dashpot when working slows the throttle plate's return to 0? starting at 2000 RPM.

The way you set the dashpot is by reving and holding the engine above 2000 RPM, then you pinch the hose coming out of the dashpot, then release the throttle with the hose still pinched and the throttle should stay held at 2000 RPM by the dashpot.

The dashpot should retract slowly, but not too slowly. Under normal operation the dashpot's actuator should return after just a second... if it takes longer it's sticking and it DOES hod the throttle open thus leaving the ECU without an IDL signal.

The brown and white valve on the hose connected to the dashpot is a damper and it is directional. The brown side is what connects to the hose and the white has the breather... yours is correctly connected, I just figured I would add this info for future reference.

For the last time, what screw are you adjusting for the idle? Knock it off and fix the f#$%ing cause of the code 51 first! It's time to suck it up, act like a woman and RTFM!

EDIT: You know, with the dash pot finally mentioned, EVERY possible cause for your problem has been listed in this thread... time to reread the thread and listen to what advice has been given man.

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 12:19 AM

Oh I got ya what ever rtfm means. woman up rtfm???

Look I'm learning. I know what's what and You guys are 100 percent correct.

The screw that has the nut around it on the exhaust side pic of the dash pot. It adjusts the distance between connection. I'm positive it's the screw that IHateHacks was referring too.

I also believe after reading this last post cre. That my dashpot is working.
It seems slow to me but your description of it's function is exactlly how it's acting. Thanks for the tip on how to reset it. Now when the car is running. I think my dash pot is sticking sticking stuck.

LOL, dude. I know I have it and I know it's all right here. I'm going to keep trying until I know it's nothing I'm doing.

Thank you all. I'll post progress as it occurs.

cre · 04-25-2008, 12:20 AM

RTFM = Read The F@#$ing Manual

04-24-2008, 10:22 PM	#3
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Alright here's where I sit. I'm adding these pics just so you guys can see where I'm working. I had the timing set where I wanted it at idle. Now the dizzy is still max'd out. So I went to the idle screw. Minor babystep adjustment and then a re tweak of the dizzy to not have it bottomed out and I was in. No more codes. The idle is on. Short test drive. Pull codes..., all's well. 1 more test drive. Now I can tell that the idle up for parking lot turns is working. I find myself having to rev the engine a few times to get it to quill back to base line. I make it home and it's reving at 2k rpms again. And I'm right back to starting over. I'm closing in on it. I just need to grind it out and the 51 will be gone. But...., why the hell does it keep coming back after a decent miles worth of test drive???? That's my problem. Edit. I guess the dashpot is the piece in the 2nd pic. Yes, no? Well that thing Has been cleaned off and I don't think it's as springy as it should be. It seems better after I covered everything and applied pb blaster. BUt it's noticabley slow at going in and out. Attached Thumbnails Last edited by supramacist; 04-24-2008 at 10:25 PM.

04-24-2008, 11:08 PM	#4
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Alright. I'm back to it go and get the base line set again and get rid of the 51. Once I get this bitch starting and running and timed. I'm not going to test drive it. Something bigger is still going on. EDIT: Thanks for that link HH. Helpful, very. Last edited by supramacist; 04-24-2008 at 11:22 PM.

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04-24-2008, 08:12 PM	#1
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Fact: You had your TPS off of your car before. Fact: You have code 51. Fact: Your code 51 is 100% related to you taking off the TPS. Give this a whirl: Loosen the TPS mounting screws and move the TPS adjustment out counter clockwise while it is running. Wait a few seconds, and see if the code is gone. Check out this thread, pay attention to post #9. And #10. HELP! my engine warms up in reverse order - SupraMania Last edited by IHateHacks; 04-24-2008 at 08:21 PM.

04-24-2008, 08:21 PM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I doubt this is the case but... Code 51 is also related to the A/C system which you've removed from the vehicle. If errant currant is entering the A/C signal line to the ECU this too can cause a code 51. The solution here is to ground the A/C signal line to the ECU. (sorry I don't recall specifically which line it is though)

04-24-2008, 11:36 PM	#5
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The dashpot when working slows the throttle plate's return to 0? starting at 2000 RPM. The way you set the dashpot is by reving and holding the engine above 2000 RPM, then you pinch the hose coming out of the dashpot, then release the throttle with the hose still pinched and the throttle should stay held at 2000 RPM by the dashpot. The dashpot should retract slowly, but not too slowly. Under normal operation the dashpot's actuator should return after just a second... if it takes longer it's sticking and it DOES hod the throttle open thus leaving the ECU without an IDL signal. The brown and white valve on the hose connected to the dashpot is a damper and it is directional. The brown side is what connects to the hose and the white has the breather... yours is correctly connected, I just figured I would add this info for future reference. For the last time, what screw are you adjusting for the idle? Knock it off and fix the f#$%ing cause of the code 51 first! It's time to suck it up, act like a woman and RTFM! EDIT: You know, with the dash pot finally mentioned, EVERY possible cause for your problem has been listed in this thread... time to reread the thread and listen to what advice has been given man.

04-25-2008, 12:19 AM	#6
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Oh I got ya what ever rtfm means. woman up rtfm??? Look I'm learning. I know what's what and You guys are 100 percent correct. The screw that has the nut around it on the exhaust side pic of the dash pot. It adjusts the distance between connection. I'm positive it's the screw that IHateHacks was referring too. I also believe after reading this last post cre. That my dashpot is working. It seems slow to me but your description of it's function is exactlly how it's acting. Thanks for the tip on how to reset it. Now when the car is running. I think my dash pot is sticking sticking stuck. LOL, dude. I know I have it and I know it's all right here. I'm going to keep trying until I know it's nothing I'm doing. Thank you all. I'll post progress as it occurs.

04-25-2008, 12:20 AM	#7
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	RTFM = Read The F@#$ing Manual