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Old 04-23-2008, 11:55 AM   #1
supramacist
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I blew all of that muck out and it was more atf than anything.

Now I did have sludge in the line, upon removal. Which is why I cleaned it.
The inside of the power sterring res was black and couldn't be seen into.

Well, long story short I cleaned that biotch like my bong, and then loaded it up with lucas and drained it all out. I used gasoline to break the muck loose with a healthy dose of salt. It's a glass bong you see.

After draining. I read the tsrm for to check myself and applied every principle. So it's not the idle control valve I promise.

The p-stump system is tight. This idle thing is something else and it's stumping me. I don't want you guys giving me answers...., just direction.

So I can learn something here. Surely you cats can respect that.
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Old 04-23-2008, 12:47 PM   #2
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Alright I have everything back together accept the air intake.
I'm wondering what the trick is to get the ecu to reset itself????

Do I want to start it by monitoring the idle while it's cold and then check it after operating temp?

If it's idling right do I just let it run or what?

What's the next step if it's still doing its high rpm idle?

Because I have no idea other than to try it and see what happens and come back here and report.

I still keep having this nagging voice telling me to move the dizzy forward a tooth. Is this a solid mistake? Won't it give me more room to adjust the dist cap after I tighten it in? Or is it going to throw me further away from my goal?

Thanks again guys.
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Old 04-23-2008, 12:47 PM   #3
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air/fuel mixture
vsv switches intake
unplug the battery will reset the ecu
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:54 PM   #4
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I have codes.
24 and 51.

I can not seem to locate these in my tsrm so I'm going to try an online link.

But if anyone knows and can save me some steps.

I would be highly appreciative.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:09 PM   #5
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i was getting those codes when i had faulty vsv switches
one switch controls fuel vacuum
one controls egr vacuum
you can test them easily but they are hard to get at to test

they are brown plastic dealios under the intake

you need an air/fuel meter long term to keep an eye on the mix
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:16 PM   #6
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my guess would be the fuel one is not working and you're getting more than the usual amount of air in the mix

so fella's would this raise your idle ?

you betcha it's just like turning the air screw on the throttle body

i guess it could be the egr one what do i know

it's an easy continuity test
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:19 PM   #7
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my diag is alot cheaper than yours

vsv switches are $50 each from the dealer
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:22 PM   #8
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Well my afm is under warranty. So I'll replace it and get a new filter for starters. Not to be rude. It's just been a long night and I'm about to rack out. I'll read this again later when I'm more coherent.

EDIT: I'm getting fuel. No problem there the walbro is kicking a$$ and taking names.
If anything I'm running rich and need a fuel pressure regulater. But I don't know at this point.

I'll have to think more on this later.

Thanks for the input.

Last edited by supramacist; 04-23-2008 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:12 PM   #9
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Alright.

Code 24 is the air intake signal.
Open or short circuit in intake air temp sensor signal tha.

Code 51 HAs to do with alot of ac schmaz which I have long sense deleted. So that brings us to the TPS circuit or the TPS.

This is about as good as i get guys. Code 24 sounds like I need a new afm and a new dry flow filter. YES or NO ???

Code 51 can be there simply because I have deleted the ac unit or I have a problem with my tps. Which may as well be in sputnik.
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