Timing question.

supramacist · 04-23-2008, 04:40 AM

Here's what I've got.

I can adjust the timing with the jumper wire to get it right.
Now the dizzy is lifted all the way up.

It's holds correct idle upon stop and re-start. Once you go driving on the other hand. It starts speeding up and by the time I put around 3 miles on it.

It's idling at 1800 rpm's.

My game plan. Un hook the battery again. Leave it so while I dis-assemble the dist-cap. I'm having a hard time remembering if I can get to those bolts with the upper rad hose on. I'm not trying to drain my coolant, I'm out of empties.

Anyhow. Since the dizzy is bottomed out. I'm going to move it forward 1 tooth.

Any thoughts or comments before this turns into an all nighter???
I'll wait here a moment or so. Before I head back out.

Damn power steering. I finally nailed it. Now this.
2 steps forward 1 step back.

supramacist · 04-23-2008, 04:58 AM

Damn. I missed the lot of you.

Something tells me that this is something other than my dizzy being off a tooth.

But I'm dead in the water till I solve it and it's just wrench time and it costs nothing to do and I can put it all back.

Something is making it idle up even after I set the timing correctly.

I think I"ll be wasting my time with the advanced tooth theory.

It's midnight already. I haven't worked on my car till the sun came up sinse last summer. I'll go back to the drawing board. If I let her get a foot hold she'll own me again.

cre · 04-23-2008, 05:21 AM

Any codes?

Check the TPS alignment and test the IDL switch in it. Also check the ECU coolant sensor.

mrnickleye · 04-23-2008, 05:46 AM

I meant the p/s pump. You said you had it out to clean everything up. Did you have the dist. out during that work? If so, you may have it 2 or more tooth off. If not, then there is no reason to remove it, cause it didn't move on its own.

One tooth off won't make it do what your problem is.

I suspect that you co-incidentally have developed another problem. Sensor or circuit? Idle control?

supramacist · 04-23-2008, 06:01 AM

That's what I was afraid of. I figured by moving the 1 tooth I wouldn't bottom it out when timing.

Did I pull the codes. Yes. Never got this one before.
It was after I had timed it and decided to check.

My check engine light was flashing non stop with no dots or dashes, you know what I mean.

Thanks guys. I'll ponder the perplexities there of.

supramacist · 04-23-2008, 06:16 AM

I took it down the road and it's obviously working to pull through some hesitation in 3rd and 4th almost as if it needs a tune up.

I just put ngk iridiums in it and the msd wires don't have 2 hours on them.

I know the 1 tooth wasn't an issue so it's throwing effort after want and that's a lose lose.

So I guess I need to remove the upper rad hose after sac'ing up and draining coolant. SO I can fully remove the cam gear cover and make sure everything is at tdc and start from scratch.

I don't know if I do shite the hard way or if this is just life as I know it.

IHateHacks · 04-23-2008, 10:53 AM

cre: Actually, at proper idle speed, and the jumper disconnected. The timing will be about 13 degrees btdc and will go higher the higher you rev.

I had a feeling you just grabbed the timing light and went gung ho.

You are just like me in that sense. When stuff goes down, you forget everything you learned and run around in circles. I think it's all that weed I smoke....

This may sound dumb, but is the throttle sticking? You say it holds an idle but after you drive it it rev's out?

Glad I could help as little as I did.

Just read this:

So I guess I need to remove the upper rad hose after sac'ing up and draining coolant. SO I can fully remove the cam gear cover and make sure everything is at tdc and start from scratch.

That should have been the very first thing you did after you checked the codes.

If all checks out ok, I'd look for a vacuum leak. You DID change the plugs and wires, vacuum lines have to come off and they don't last forever.

I hope you figure it out.

supramacist · 04-23-2008, 11:41 AM

I've done the starting fluid test already. No noticable revs.

I have the cams and the crank at tdc. So I'm about to put all of that back together...., ya. I"m not done yet. The battery has been unhooked all night.

The throttle is a possibility. My lil bro was in from chicago and tightened some of that up. I thought maybe my butterfly wasn't seating as it should due to over tightening. So I'm awaiting a text on that. The throttle it self sticking? I don't think so. It was giving it to it when I was applying it. I know I'm running rich because I don't have a fuel pressure regulator yet. But this has nothing to do with, I can't get it to idle after operating temp is hit below 1800 rpm's. Hell, it drives it'self in 3rd gear. After I have timed it with the jumper wire. It's like the ecu is running amuck.

How low can I adjust the idle? I may have to move the tooth. I don't know yet. I'm grassping at straws.

I drained the coolant into a gallon jug that had a tad bit of dist water in it.
No oil floating yet so it looks good. But..., I didn't drain it completely. Only enough to get the upper rad hose off.

Something is definitley awry. I'll check back in after I hit another stopping point. Keep them comming I thank you all very very much.

EDIT: What the heck does it mean when the code light flashes consistently with no off sets???
I'm of the opinion that it means it's not throwing codes but i must confess I have not yet looked it up in my tsrm.
Atleast I'm honest.

04-23-2008, 04:40 AM	#1
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Here's what I've got. I can adjust the timing with the jumper wire to get it right. Now the dizzy is lifted all the way up. It's holds correct idle upon stop and re-start. Once you go driving on the other hand. It starts speeding up and by the time I put around 3 miles on it. It's idling at 1800 rpm's. My game plan. Un hook the battery again. Leave it so while I dis-assemble the dist-cap. I'm having a hard time remembering if I can get to those bolts with the upper rad hose on. I'm not trying to drain my coolant, I'm out of empties. Anyhow. Since the dizzy is bottomed out. I'm going to move it forward 1 tooth. Any thoughts or comments before this turns into an all nighter??? I'll wait here a moment or so. Before I head back out. Damn power steering. I finally nailed it. Now this. 2 steps forward 1 step back. Last edited by supramacist; 04-23-2008 at 04:51 AM.

04-23-2008, 05:46 AM	#4
mrnickleye 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, Calif. Posts: 1,705	I meant the p/s pump. You said you had it out to clean everything up. Did you have the dist. out during that work? If so, you may have it 2 or more tooth off. If not, then there is no reason to remove it, cause it didn't move on its own. One tooth off won't make it do what your problem is. I suspect that you co-incidentally have developed another problem. Sensor or circuit? Idle control? __________________ Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08.

04-23-2008, 06:01 AM	#5
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	That's what I was afraid of. I figured by moving the 1 tooth I wouldn't bottom it out when timing. Did I pull the codes. Yes. Never got this one before. It was after I had timed it and decided to check. My check engine light was flashing non stop with no dots or dashes, you know what I mean. Thanks guys. I'll ponder the perplexities there of. Last edited by supramacist; 04-23-2008 at 06:17 AM.

04-23-2008, 10:53 AM	#7
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	cre: Actually, at proper idle speed, and the jumper disconnected. The timing will be about 13 degrees btdc and will go higher the higher you rev. I had a feeling you just grabbed the timing light and went gung ho. You are just like me in that sense. When stuff goes down, you forget everything you learned and run around in circles. I think it's all that weed I smoke.... This may sound dumb, but is the throttle sticking? You say it holds an idle but after you drive it it rev's out? Glad I could help as little as I did. Just read this: So I guess I need to remove the upper rad hose after sac'ing up and draining coolant. SO I can fully remove the cam gear cover and make sure everything is at tdc and start from scratch. That should have been the very first thing you did after you checked the codes. If all checks out ok, I'd look for a vacuum leak. You DID change the plugs and wires, vacuum lines have to come off and they don't last forever. I hope you figure it out. Last edited by IHateHacks; 04-23-2008 at 11:11 AM.

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04-23-2008, 04:58 AM	#2
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Damn. I missed the lot of you. Something tells me that this is something other than my dizzy being off a tooth. But I'm dead in the water till I solve it and it's just wrench time and it costs nothing to do and I can put it all back. Something is making it idle up even after I set the timing correctly. I think I"ll be wasting my time with the advanced tooth theory. It's midnight already. I haven't worked on my car till the sun came up sinse last summer. I'll go back to the drawing board. If I let her get a foot hold she'll own me again.

04-23-2008, 05:21 AM	#3
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Any codes? Check the TPS alignment and test the IDL switch in it. Also check the ECU coolant sensor.

04-23-2008, 06:16 AM	#6
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	I took it down the road and it's obviously working to pull through some hesitation in 3rd and 4th almost as if it needs a tune up. I just put ngk iridiums in it and the msd wires don't have 2 hours on them. I know the 1 tooth wasn't an issue so it's throwing effort after want and that's a lose lose. So I guess I need to remove the upper rad hose after sac'ing up and draining coolant. SO I can fully remove the cam gear cover and make sure everything is at tdc and start from scratch. I don't know if I do shite the hard way or if this is just life as I know it.

04-23-2008, 11:41 AM	#8
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	I've done the starting fluid test already. No noticable revs. I have the cams and the crank at tdc. So I'm about to put all of that back together...., ya. I"m not done yet. The battery has been unhooked all night. The throttle is a possibility. My lil bro was in from chicago and tightened some of that up. I thought maybe my butterfly wasn't seating as it should due to over tightening. So I'm awaiting a text on that. The throttle it self sticking? I don't think so. It was giving it to it when I was applying it. I know I'm running rich because I don't have a fuel pressure regulator yet. But this has nothing to do with, I can't get it to idle after operating temp is hit below 1800 rpm's. Hell, it drives it'self in 3rd gear. After I have timed it with the jumper wire. It's like the ecu is running amuck. How low can I adjust the idle? I may have to move the tooth. I don't know yet. I'm grassping at straws. I drained the coolant into a gallon jug that had a tad bit of dist water in it. No oil floating yet so it looks good. But..., I didn't drain it completely. Only enough to get the upper rad hose off. Something is definitley awry. I'll check back in after I hit another stopping point. Keep them comming I thank you all very very much. EDIT: What the heck does it mean when the code light flashes consistently with no off sets??? I'm of the opinion that it means it's not throwing codes but i must confess I have not yet looked it up in my tsrm. Atleast I'm honest.