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Old 05-26-2008, 11:03 AM   #151
ddmcse
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Old 06-03-2008, 06:10 AM   #152
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Hey I'm in the middle of replacing my headgasket also and i was reading your thread and had a question. I purchased some ARP studs as well and am also having trouble getting the studs all the way down in the block. can you tell me what you did?

and should i use the moly lube or 30wt?
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:10 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burton51m View Post
Hey I'm in the middle of replacing my headgasket also and i was reading your thread and had a question. I purchased some ARP studs as well and am also having trouble getting the studs all the way down in the block. can you tell me what you did?

and should i use the moly lube or 30wt?
I assume you really mean studs and not bolts. (They sell both) So if it's studs it's a little tricky but all and all a better result.

Make sure you have cleaned your head bolt holes very well. I used the lube that came with them which I think was molly lube. You have a small hex head on the top side of your studs to help you screw the studs into the block with an allen wrench. They don't need to be cranked tight down in there...just snug. They should all go in about the same depth. If one is way off you may have a problem with that bolt hole. Just make sure the exposed lengths once seated looks correct before setting the head on in case they sent you the wrong length. (You could call ARP or whoever you bought them from and double check length/part number)

If your engine is still in the car, you'll find it tricky to get the head back on the studs. I used a shop engine hoist and my son to help me gently guide and lower the head over the studs. (Taking the hood off would make it easier but I did it with hood on)

Another tip I got from the head machining guy, once the head is on and ready to torque, torque each nut in the proper order to about 40 ft/lbs...then walk away or work on something else for about 1 hour. Then un-torque a little, re-torque to about 50 ft/lbs, wait about 30 minutes, torque to 60, wait 30 minutes, and so on up to the ARP values. (I think about 80 ft/lbs) Always torque in the proper order per your TSRM. Take your time and don't be distracted durring this process.

Congratulations on doing this yourself. Anybody else will not do it right.
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:24 PM   #154
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Thanks a lot for the advice spudboy. I think i need to clean out the thereads in the block more because i used the allen wrench to tighten them down a little more and they still didnt go down that far (there was still threads on the stud showing that i thought were supposto be in the block)



Also someone on the other forum said i should put the head on and then put the studs in the block. I don't know if that would work out?
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:58 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burton51m View Post
Thanks a lot for the advice spudboy. I think i need to clean out the thereads in the block more because i used the allen wrench to tighten them down a little more and they still didnt go down that far (there was still threads on the stud showing that i thought were supposto be in the block)



Also someone on the other forum said i should put the head on and then put the studs in the block. I don't know if that would work out?
As I recall I had 2 or 3 threads exposed after the studs were snug into the block.

I can't say for sure, but it may be difficult to put the head on first then the studs. I may have decided that when I did mine or maybe I should have done it that way...can't remember. It sounds easier but I think you can't get a proper and confident 'seat' into the block with the studs doing it that way. Make sure when you discuss this with people you are sure everybody understands the difference between studs and bolts. I had some mis-communication in that area.

If you don't have or want to rent a hoist, three friends and you might carefully lower the head onto the studs. (don't give them any beer BEFORE you do this...be very careful)
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:26 PM   #156
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You put the head on the guide pins 1st.
Then you place the arp washers.
Then you place the studs.

Finger tighten them in sequence.

You can not drop the head onto the studs installed into the block.

You need a can of compressed air to blow out the bolt holes.

And you want to use molly. Desperately.

You can get a tube at your local parts house for right around 5$.
Molly everything you bolt up or screw on.

Because if you know anything then you know the only thing you know is that you never know.
And you don't want to be messing around with grimey threads after you get done putting it together.

That's only half the battle. There's a solid week of tweaking coming up upon completion.

And for christ sakes DO NOT forget to use the high temp RTV on the required spots on the block Before you torque the head.

Or you'll be ripping into the engine from it's nose. Tearing into basically another build type situation to repair your mistakes.

I used the wrong filler and are currently paying for it. HIGH TEMP RTV.
Mui mui importante!

Good Luck.
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:52 PM   #157
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Thanks a lot for the tips. As far as the HIGH TEMP RTV, where can i get some and where do i put it?
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:41 AM   #158
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I'm not sure how you have managed over 500 posts and 2 years at this site and are still not sure where to get rtv . Let alone where it goes.

I don't mean to be rude or anything but c'mon.

You get the rtv at the same place as the molly. Use loctite brand.

Do you remember when it was all tore down and it was just your block?

Good well on the very front nose up by where the timing belt goes.

There was a hole. You couldn't miss it with the MHG top side the block.

To the best of my knowledge...., that's the only place it goes that I am aware of.

I have to prod you here to stop asking to be spoon fed. And learn how to wield your car.

You need to research. If you don't you're not only cheating yourself, but your car as well.

It's no use working on it yourself if you're not going to learn anything before hand. Because when it breaks from shoddy mechanicing.

It's going to cost you the same amount or even more to fix it right.

Not to mention the time you have waisted because you didn't form your own conclusions or thought process because you were to busy asking every one what was what instead of learning about it along with the rest of us.

Last edited by supramacist; 06-04-2008 at 04:43 AM.
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Old 06-04-2008, 06:26 AM   #159
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Well thanks for the advice.

As far as me and my knowledge with 2 yrs on the forum and over 500 posts...this is a new experience for me. With only being 18 and replacing my own head gasket i believe my knowledge is above average about cars, from what i learned from the forms. Just because i don't know where to get a product like RTV and where to put it means you can question MY knowledge learned here. And not to mention this is why they have forums, so people like me can get answers from knowledgeable people like you.

I tried doing research on various forums but i came up with nothing on RTV and especially WHERE to put it properly on the block. If that question was asked it is probably ancient and I would spend days looking for it.

I AM using a thin layer of Hylomar on the block and head to get a good seal though.
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:26 PM   #160
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Hey Burton, keep asking lots of questions. That is EXACTLY what these forums are for. That is also the best way to form your own opinions. There isn’t anybody in this forum, other forums, or the world who have ALL the RIGHT answers. You may get lots of answers, but many are wrong, ? wrong, or misleading.

Don’t pay attention to Supramacist seemingly cocky, negative, and ignorant sounding statements like…
Not to mention the time you have waisted because you didn't form your own conclusions or thought process because you were to busy asking every one what was what instead of learning about it along with the rest of us.

I’m sure Supramacist meant nothing personal. Sometimes when we e-mail or post things in forums the undertone comes across wrong.

My advice, for what it’s worth, MAKE SURE you have the official Toyota Supra full repair manual, ask lots of questions, don’t take anybodies opinions as Gospel, take your time, and have fun doing it. If you start to get frustrated with something, walk a way for a short while or day, come back with a fresh attitude and often things start to work.

Last edited by Spudboy; 06-04-2008 at 05:59 PM.
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