supra head gasket questions+ rebuild

[Andy C]

hi, im using 1200 grit fine sandpaper and 3x6 inch block is this ok?
this is about 2 hours work. dont wanna ruin the block.

[supramacist]

Originally Posted by Andy C

hi, im using 1200 grit fine sandpaper and 3x6 inch block is this ok?
this is about 2 hours work. dont wanna ruin the block.

I did what you are doing and I did it for the better part of 2 weeks.

Wear that paper out on the block and keep sanding. Figure 8's would be good and dont stay in 1 spot for too long. It's going to be hard to mess that block up dude. It's solid.

Rotate your crank shaft to get the pistons down out of the sanding area.
If you shine em up a lil bit it's cool.

Keep a level and feeler gauges. Check this constantly. It'll really help you.
1200 grit will take you a month.

Keep that surface lubricated. I used PB BLaster.
Lucas oil treatment would be a good lube for lapping.
Regular motor oil would be fine as well.

As for the seal kit. It's only going to have the seals for things that bolt directly to the head.
Everything else..., may as well come from the dealership. These seals are cheap enough and order 2 sets for the intake for the retorque.

Now's a good time to replace all the hoses and all of that trash.

[Andy C]

phoned local part supplier and managed to get blueprint gasket set for half the price.
this is what toyota use as there genuine parts.

worried about cam belt change and crank nut. getting it off i heard it can be a arse. how do i do it im really anal when it comes to this bit.
timing is not my specialityt and it looks conplicated help appreciated.???

well got 3 days off now so its gonna be lap lap lapping til i snap my back.

is it ok to work on little arears with pressure with less finer grit?

[supramacist]

No small areas. Work the enitrety of the block. You can touch up small things later..., after you have lapped, to completion.

Ah yes the crankshaft nut. 1st. be carefull that shaft pulley is brittle.
I promise.

Remove the starter, exposing an opening to the flywheel.
You will need a giant pry bar type flathead screw driver.

You wedge the driver into the flywheel causing it to catch while you jank the flywheel bolt.

I tried all of the putting it in gear stories you will hear of. This is what worked for me. Alone by myself in the garage. Once you break that nut.

The hard shite starts. You have to get that pulley off the shaft.
Some say rock it with a screwdriver and a hammer.

You have to walk it off regardless. So do what works for you.
I'd marinate it in pb blaster for a few days myself.

Remember. The crank shaft pulley is 350$

If they can find you a toyota oem replacement.

[supramacist]

Hey Andy..., if you don't own a dremel.
Get One. With the pencil grinder attachment.
For Real.

[Andy C]

i couldnt sand the entire block as the tissue in the oil ways got in the way.
can i sand the top block with 1200 sanderpaper and oil as hard as i like then. if i take the tissue out of the chambers wont grit get inside them?

any tips?

very worried about that crank bolt is it realy that hard to get off then. do i need any special tools? is it best to do all this once the head is back on?

cheers.