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#1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
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thanks for reply i know the cambelt is calledthe timing belt did i mis spell something?
im aware of the gasket set wont include all gaskets, i iknow the turbo oil pipe will be missing but not srue about the others if you could tell me what they are would greatly appreciate it. regards Andy |
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#2 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Well none of the air intake seals will be there.
There are a few other obscure ones that I fail to recall. |
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#3 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
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thanks for all the tips supramacist.
everyones being very helpful ![]() |
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#4 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
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hi, im using 1200 grit fine sandpaper and 3x6 inch block is this ok?
this is about 2 hours work. dont wanna ruin the block. Last edited by Andy C; 04-19-2008 at 08:02 PM. |
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#5 | |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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![]() Quote:
I did what you are doing and I did it for the better part of 2 weeks. Wear that paper out on the block and keep sanding. Figure 8's would be good and dont stay in 1 spot for too long. It's going to be hard to mess that block up dude. It's solid. Rotate your crank shaft to get the pistons down out of the sanding area. If you shine em up a lil bit it's cool. Keep a level and feeler gauges. Check this constantly. It'll really help you. 1200 grit will take you a month ![]() Keep that surface lubricated. I used PB BLaster. Lucas oil treatment would be a good lube for lapping. Regular motor oil would be fine as well. As for the seal kit. It's only going to have the seals for things that bolt directly to the head. Everything else..., may as well come from the dealership. These seals are cheap enough and order 2 sets for the intake for the retorque. Now's a good time to replace all the hoses and all of that trash. Last edited by supramacist; 04-20-2008 at 12:48 AM. |
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#6 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: sudbury suffolk uk
Posts: 68
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phoned local part supplier and managed to get blueprint gasket set for half the price.
this is what toyota use as there genuine parts. worried about cam belt change and crank nut. getting it off i heard it can be a arse. how do i do it im really anal when it comes to this bit. timing is not my specialityt and it looks conplicated help appreciated.??? well got 3 days off now so its gonna be lap lap lapping til i snap my back. is it ok to work on little arears with pressure with less finer grit? |
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#7 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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No small areas. Work the enitrety of the block. You can touch up small things later..., after you have lapped, to completion.
Ah yes the crankshaft nut. 1st. be carefull that shaft pulley is brittle. I promise. Remove the starter, exposing an opening to the flywheel. You will need a giant pry bar type flathead screw driver. You wedge the driver into the flywheel causing it to catch while you jank the flywheel bolt. I tried all of the putting it in gear stories you will hear of. This is what worked for me. Alone by myself in the garage. Once you break that nut. The hard shite starts. You have to get that pulley off the shaft. Some say rock it with a screwdriver and a hammer. You have to walk it off regardless. So do what works for you. I'd marinate it in pb blaster for a few days myself. Remember. The crank shaft pulley is 350$ If they can find you a toyota oem replacement. |
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