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Old 05-30-2008, 06:41 PM   #1
supramacist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
I've had this problem with both of my turbo Supras. I found a radiator shop that built me a couple of 3 row radiators. They helped, but the cars still run hot in the Phoenix summers. I changed the fan in the 1990 to a direct-drive stainless steel flex fan, and that helped, but it's a bit noisy.

In the summer, at ~110+ deg., both cars get up to ~220-230, on accurate gages, and the faster I drive the hotter they get. I run 50% antifreeze to keep the boiling point high. Both cars have good head gaskets.

I am convinced that Toyota screwed up and should have provided for a lot more airflow thru the rad.
Do an ac delete and get rid of the condensor blocking the radiator.

SC: Is this the same mechanic that unplugged your coolant sensor??
If it is. Find a new one or start gearing up to get dirty. Because if this guy didn't know about the sensor. You don't want him near the internals.
This is your car not a guinnea pig.
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Old 05-31-2008, 01:31 AM   #2
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a new engine is going to be just as costly, if not more, and probably will blow a head gasket within a short time if its on the original gasket
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Old 05-31-2008, 03:09 AM   #3
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>"Do an ac delete and get rid of the condensor blocking the radiator."<

Except that I live near Phoenix, and the days may not get below 100+ until October----.
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Old 06-01-2008, 12:11 AM   #4
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rebuild what you have use a stronger gasket and try some water wetter it works really good for about 3months my dad uses it in his drag car dropped his operating temp from 220 to 180-200
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supramacist View Post
Do an ac delete and get rid of the condensor blocking the radiator.

SC: Is this the same mechanic that unplugged your coolant sensor??
If it is. Find a new one or start gearing up to get dirty. Because if this guy didn't know about the sensor. You don't want him near the internals.
This is your car not a guinnea pig.
Exactly!!!
The fact that your mechanic did this leaves little room for doubting the fact that he is indeed a moron.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:14 PM   #6
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Well as for a new motor you could get a 40k and drop it in but might as well do the head gasket when it is out and then drop it in. Other than that you could just upgrade like I did and get rid of the head gasket issues all together. But seeing as your having a mechanic do your work then I would say a upgrade would be out of the question seeing as the labor itself would kill you. But as for motors you can get a 40k 7mgte for like 700 bucks so I dont see how that is a ton more money. Plus look around you there might be a person from here that would be willing to help you do your HG and save you some money.
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:23 PM   #7
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>"Other than that you could just upgrade like I did and get rid of the head gasket issues all together."<

How is it different?
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Old 06-05-2008, 12:49 AM   #8
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It depends on the engine you upgrade to.

For instance a 2jzge. Is 215/ 220hp And has zero hg issues.

I'm not sure even with ARP studs and an HKS stopper mhg solves the issue.
Only time will tell.

And ya. If you aren't your cars mechanic. It'll cost a buttload to have done.

Even if you get a 700$ 7m series engine of higher caliber. It's still not smart to try and plug and play.
Simply put. It's a gamble.
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Old 06-05-2008, 03:46 PM   #9
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What I was looking for is how Toyota solved the BHG problem--e.g., more head bolts, "O"-ringed heads/block, just higher bolt torque, etc.
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Old 06-05-2008, 04:57 PM   #10
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They corrected the issues with the 7m series in the 2j series.
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