Another BHG

[suprasabre]

Originally Posted by supramacist

HKS Stopper MHG.
ARP head studs.

And you can beat on it till the cows come home.
You're going to need some machine work as well.

I plan on taking the head in and have it machined, but not the block if I can help it. Since I don't plan on racing the car (except when trying to get on the freeway), I think a metal head gasket would be overkill and too expensive since you need the block machined as well.

ARP Studs are at the top of the list though.

[supramacist]

You can get by with the block not beeing machined.
If you resurface it by hand.

The mhg price is nothing compared to real fix instead of a band aid.

Good Luck

[ddmcse]

if you're not boosting you are fine with a regular gasket and it will seal better than a metal at this point

[supramacist]

Right on.

I hear of guys using the reman's gasket from the dealership with arp hardware..

Felpro, I have never heard anything good about.
Cometic is mixed at 50/50.

Have you thought of a "beaded" gasket?

I personally would still look at what HKS has to offer.

Hope this helps.

[suprasabre]

Okay, to use a metal head gasket, what can I do to the block to "clean it up enough" so a "bead" type gasket would work?

Also, I see the different thicknesses of the gaskets, how do I know (other then a stock 1.2mm) which to use? I'm assuming of course that this engine has never had the head gasket replaced.

From HSK Website:

11116-153195TOYOTA Supra 1986.5-1992 ; Engine Code: 7MG(T)EBead86-1.2$110.00

What other things do I need to know about the metal gaskets that hasn't been said so far? I've been reading the different websites on it, but are there some that go into details about cleaning up the block?

I figure, if I'm going to this much trouble, doing it right would be nice.

And of course, thanks for the info so far!

[h8z2luze]

I just used a sanding block with very fine grit wet/dry sand paper after cleaning all the gasket material off. I used ARP Bolts and i was fine.... till i burned out a rod bearing but thats not the problem of the gasket or bolts lol. I used a regualr gasket the first time drove it maybe 100 miles and it blew again so ya the metal gasket is worth it by far.

[supramacist]

To find out the thickness of gasket you need.
You need to know how much the machinist removed from the head.

Go to: Performance Parts Aftermarket and Racing

Get the # when the tone asks for an extension..., dial 103.

You'll be speaking to dave. He can get you the gasket that you need.
With the info from the machinist, he'll go to a chart that will tell him
the thickness required.

I would seriously go beaded.

A MACHINED block. Not just a 2x4 and if you didn't sand on it for days.
You didn't do any good nor did you hurt anything. So long as you cleaned it out very very well.

You'll also be wanting arp studs or bolts.
You're going to need a volt meter and a torque wrench.
All of the seals you destroy during the tear down, you want to order them as soon as you have enough to constitute a real parts order.

I used a 2.mm stopper HKS. It's bloody beautiful.
You'll feel much better once you press the head down and retorque
the head to 80lbs. You'll know the difference and quick.

DO it right. Do it once.
research research research.