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Wow, sounds like you guys been burnin' that midnight oil! Are we close to figuring anything out? I had a question. In my experience, not to insult yours Irish, but doesn't white smoke mean coolant and blue means oil? Now here is just a suggestion, but the white smoke you saw when the car was started could probably have been condensation that was built up in your exhaust pipe, being that the car was sitting for a while. If not, I would say it's coolant. As far as timing is concerned, as Irish said before, the car was running, for 15 minutes! The timing isn't off. Even if it were a tooth of on the belt, which is more degrees than you can get by adjusting the CPS or calibrationg, the car would attempt to run, but die out. The first thing you should do in a no start situation is always check for spark and then fuel, in that order. You wouldn't want any fuel laying around a nice spark! Then you take it from there.
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New spark plugs installed recently, how do i check fuel?
Also new timing belt installed so it has not jumped a tooth Read about a starter problem with the wiring, hesistant to start or sometimes you just hear the relay click but wont turn the car over. That 10$ part that lets u crank ur engine from the engine bay would that bypass that problem as a means to check if the wiring is bad? Is there another way to go about this like running power straight from the battery to the starter? |
Also, I'm not sure how it works with the NA's, but in order to set the base timing on these cars, you have to jump the diagnostic box. I am not sure which pins it is, but it's gotta be somewhere here on the forums. If all of your timing inputs check out, then I would look at the TPS or the MAF sensors.
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TPS checks out, you ahve to bridge connections in dia box to set timing but car has to be started to even check u...
But since u say it started so its not the timing idk..... what it is. Never had this problem before and all i did was clean throttle body, intake penlum, rewired knock sensor, calibrated TPS had codes 52/41 this fix cleard them both but now cannot start lol |
Head was recently done, there better not be any problems like that i will blow up the fucking shop who did the job lol. Especially if they tell me its not there fault lol
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as far as the condensation in the exhaust pipe putting out white smoke - if you've seen a steamer, you'll recognize that water vapor is clear. if you've seen the oil fields in the middle east ablaze(or a honda with shot rings) you'd recognize white smoke.
As far as putting power directly from battery to starter - there is an 8 guage wire running directly from battery to starter. the clunking you're talking about could be anything - including lower end bearings (hope not)... vibrations like that may trip the knock sensors.... i think you're best bet is to get a mechanic to look at it. if you lived closer i'd come see, but as i'm just outside of philly... |
he is right in his diag procedure - spark then fuel, then compression..... however, most people go haywire checking sensors (me) well before busting out the compression tester... especially on cars that make changing spark plugs a pain in the ass...
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clunking? its like a click, the noise some relay makes in the supra everytime it does a start, its just that i only hear that it isnt follow up by the engine turning over
So not a mechanical thing since engine is not to the point of cranking yet |
How do you test the fuel system?
Prior to this my car would never crank the first time cold, took me try'n to turn over the engine twice then it would start up just fine. With engine warm it would start every time no problems. I have suspected the fuel system before. New battery in car, and had advanced auto test alternator said it was good. New spark plugs, Diffrent spark plug wires. Vacumm lines all redone. So im at a loss as to what to do next |
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