A Little Story about a crank bolt

mrnickleye · 12-12-2007, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gpgtp_22

NEVER TRY THIS! This is one of the worst ideas I have ever heard and I hope nobody ever tries this for the sake of your engine. First off water should never be in your combustion chamber period. Second have you ever of hydrolocking. If not here is a definition from wikipedia.

In automotive terminology, a hydrolock (short for hydraulic lock) is the immobilization of an engine's pistons by a liquid (usually water, hence the prefix "hydro-"). Hydrolocking occurs when liquid fills a cylinder on the intake stroke and, due to the incompressibility of a liquid, makes the compression stroke impossible. This, in turn, prevents the entire engine from turning, and can cause significant engine damage if one attempts to forcibly turn over or start the engine. Typically, connecting rods will be bent, making the engine uneconomical to repair.

You are very lucky you did not ruin that engine! Make sure you aren't suggesting repair methods that could potentially destroy someones engine. Never use water.

Your silly, and probably have NOT turned as many wrenches over the 30 years I've been a professional auto tech.

This water idea is a valid one. And does work. The Hydrolock you are talking about will NEVER even come into play with the JOB the fellow is describing.

More research on you part before 'spouting off' is needed.

abhattan · 12-12-2007, 05:26 PM

Thank You.

gpgtp_22 · 12-12-2007, 11:12 PM

Hey its your engine...do whatever you want

Supra2NR · 12-13-2007, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gpgtp_22

Hey its your engine...do whatever you want

looks like somebody spoke too soon, and got proven wrong

gpgtp_22 · 12-14-2007, 01:51 AM

Yeah you are right putting water in your cylinders to keep the engine from turning over is a great repair procedure. That is what they do at all of the dealerships when they have a stuck crank bolt right? I thought I saw that in the service manual somewhere, must have just slipped my mind.

abhattan · 12-14-2007, 06:32 PM

At the dealership, they have all of the right tools, and with the right tools you can do anything. But when your doing a job where you need the car up in a pinch, you have to be a little creative. It's all about turnaround time and cost. You try to keep your customers happy. What I did was a last resort kind of deal. This is not something you would do again. I will now go out and buy the correct tool or get stonger equipment. And by the way, you would be surprised what the dealer would do because your not looking. They know better than anyone that time is money. I've had many teachers that were all A techs at all sorts of dealerships with no less than 25 years of experience tell me stories of unorthodox ways they would get a car going again that the service repair manual doesn't contain. So, please, try to be a little open minded and not so sarcastic of other people's genious

Bill UK · 03-23-2013, 07:19 PM

You may find these interesting Link & Link

Burn N' Up · 12-16-2007, 04:38 PM

I just leave mine in gear in 5th and have someone apply the brakes to the floor. Works everytime...

abhattan · 12-17-2007, 05:35 PM

This was an auto, the engine still rotates because of the torque converter. If it was a stick, Definitely!

pcmentor29 · 06-09-2009, 01:15 AM

Hi (this is to update this old thread) I have been looking at using hydrolock or a rope trick to immobilize the crank. In that Wiki article mentioned, if you read further it says damage should occur when the engine is at speed. At idle or other low pressure situations there should be no damge. With engine off there should follow that no damage should occur. I like the water instead of oil cause it's not so messy. Same with using a rope to stuff in there. These tips sure beat breaking a tooth of your flywheel or deforming the pulley. Now I have not tried water or rope yet but I plan on doing my timing belt soon. 85 22re. Using water is good because it evaporates easily.

12-12-2007, 05:26 PM	#2
abhattan 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brentwood, New York Posts: 162	Thank You. __________________ '91 Turbo Targa 5 Spd. '87 Corolla GT-S 5 Spd '91 Accord Daily Driver 5 Spd Soon to be rebuilt (All to some extent)

12-14-2007, 06:32 PM	#6
abhattan 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brentwood, New York Posts: 162	At the dealership, they have all of the right tools, and with the right tools you can do anything. But when your doing a job where you need the car up in a pinch, you have to be a little creative. It's all about turnaround time and cost. You try to keep your customers happy. What I did was a last resort kind of deal. This is not something you would do again. I will now go out and buy the correct tool or get stonger equipment. And by the way, you would be surprised what the dealer would do because your not looking. They know better than anyone that time is money. I've had many teachers that were all A techs at all sorts of dealerships with no less than 25 years of experience tell me stories of unorthodox ways they would get a car going again that the service repair manual doesn't contain. So, please, try to be a little open minded and not so sarcastic of other people's genious __________________ '91 Turbo Targa 5 Spd. '87 Corolla GT-S 5 Spd '91 Accord Daily Driver 5 Spd Soon to be rebuilt (All to some extent)

12-16-2007, 04:38 PM	#8
Burn N' Up 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 238	I just leave mine in gear in 5th and have someone apply the brakes to the floor. Works everytime... __________________ 89Turbo 5 speed:Eibach lowered,Tokico Illumina II TEMS,All Poly Bushings,3" Elbow/DP/Cat,HKS Sport Turbo Exhaust,K&N FPIK w/ AEM Dryflow,Cooleeze ceramic coated Turbo inlet Pipe and 2.5" hard IC Pipes,Custom 2.5" fitting Spearco IC,HKS SSQV BOV,Greddy 1.5mm MHG and timing belt,Magnecore Comp Wires,NGK IR Low-temp Plugs,ARP studs,Dual Flex-a-lite fans w/ thermo switch,Fluidyne Rad,PCV VTA,Stage 3 F1 Racing clutch,Stainless braided clutch line and brake lines,Drilled & slotted rotors,EBC pads.

12-17-2007, 05:35 PM	#9
abhattan 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brentwood, New York Posts: 162	This was an auto, the engine still rotates because of the torque converter. If it was a stick, Definitely! __________________ '91 Turbo Targa 5 Spd. '87 Corolla GT-S 5 Spd '91 Accord Daily Driver 5 Spd Soon to be rebuilt (All to some extent)

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12-12-2007, 11:12 PM	#3
gpgtp_22 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 80	Hey its your engine...do whatever you want

12-14-2007, 01:51 AM	#5
gpgtp_22 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 80	Yeah you are right putting water in your cylinders to keep the engine from turning over is a great repair procedure. That is what they do at all of the dealerships when they have a stuck crank bolt right? I thought I saw that in the service manual somewhere, must have just slipped my mind.

03-23-2013, 07:19 PM	#7
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	You may find these interesting Link & Link

06-09-2009, 01:15 AM	#10
pcmentor29 Stock Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: CA Posts: 1	Hi (this is to update this old thread) I have been looking at using hydrolock or a rope trick to immobilize the crank. In that Wiki article mentioned, if you read further it says damage should occur when the engine is at speed. At idle or other low pressure situations there should be no damge. With engine off there should follow that no damage should occur. I like the water instead of oil cause it's not so messy. Same with using a rope to stuff in there. These tips sure beat breaking a tooth of your flywheel or deforming the pulley. Now I have not tried water or rope yet but I plan on doing my timing belt soon. 85 22re. Using water is good because it evaporates easily.