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#1 |
Intake
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 36
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well if you are going to use 4130 chromo which i assume is what you mean your gunna be spending somewhat on the lines of 1500 bucks just on tube alone no labor, not to mention your gunna need to get it heat treated. How many places are going to have an oven and an oil bath large enough for that, that is somewhat affordable (none) and the only way your going to get any benifit from 4130 chomo is if you get ti heat treated and normalized. If you want a tube chassis you should use plain old 1026 DOM.
And realistically i wouldn't even cut the weight out of the car. i used to have a mk2 that had a couple of car fires and there was litterally no interior at all, because it was all burnt out. and all it really did for me was killed the ability for the car to make a turn with out loosing traction in the back. so unless you can cut out the weight in an even distribution i really wouldn't recommend it. but hey if anyone does let me know I always wanted to know how fast it would be in a strait line after cutting tons of weight. haha |
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#2 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
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Bah, spend your time and money on making more power :lol: OK, so I'm a baby and like my creature comfort...
The biggest things i can think of to remove is the spare tire and jack, back seat, don't put subs in it (duuuuh, they're HUGE HEAVY MAGNETS), and that will trim you down a bit. Aluminum one piece drive shaft will be stronger and lighter than the stock part. If you lighten the flywheel you lose a bit of the torque from the spinning mass on hookup and between shifts. I'd focus more on pulling out power from the engine, don't run your A/C when you race, get an electric fan, get the underdrive pulley for the crank (it's lighter than stock too), ect... though you're likely to get more gains from simply adding more boost, then intake and exhaust. Keep in mind, these cars can pull something like .87g's off the showroom floor in the mid 80's on CRAP tires and stock suspension, upgrade it and you'll likely pull far more. That's where I'd put my focus if I was either drag racing or road racing, making things out of carbon fiber is more expensive than simply adding more power on these cars... |
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#3 |
Stock
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: fullerton
Posts: 10
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"get the underdrive pulley for the crank (it's lighter than stock too), ect..."
Plz explain what you mean... thanx
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*86.5 N/A *Fully Rebuilt Engine *Port Polished Head *Painted Wheels ![]() MODS TO DO NEXT: (in order) -Eibach Lowering Springs -Tokico Struts -Sway Bars -Headers -3 in. Piping -Cold Air Intake -Wheels |
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#4 |
Intake
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
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i did a search for "viagra foam"....not what i think its supposed tp be searched as. haha. and i plan on using chromoly or aluminum for most things or CF. where can i get custom cut lexan? does it need bracing, and how weather resistant is it?
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#5 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
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Lexan isn't street legal and it will yellow, warp, scratch really easy. The general way to work with it is to get a sheet of it, pull out the glass, and use the glass as a template, it's pretty easy to cut. On the back hatch I don't think it would be a good idea since the glass is actually under stress and is used for support.
The foam he's probably talking about is pretty easy to find, go to a home improvement store, and get the foam that's made to insulate, it can come in cans, or be mixed. Though there really isn't any areas I can think of to use that, since it's not a body on frame car.... |
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#6 | |
Lexus & 550's
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: In the shadows
Posts: 506
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The topic is about lightening it up i thought?? not increasing power ??? but decreasing the weight.? lexan is for the track duh..and i dont know how the race regs want it installed. just tossing ideas out there peace out ![]() |
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Intake
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
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