Quote:
Originally Posted by livelaughslide
As far as oil pressure my guage never worked
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Even if you're replacing the gauge you need to make sure the stock sensor is still in place and that the ECU is still getting a valid signal from it. Do not remove the stock sensor or disconnect it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by livelaughslide
Well if stock is 1.3mm.. why does greddy offer a 1.mm? or shit hks's 1.2 all day. saying in the desciption adds compression.. ovously but a heard a rumor of detination problems..? weird.. and wtf is a stopper gasket compared to a reguler.. lol thanks man oh and heres my NEW intake and valve covers. lol
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The stock is 1.37mm thick when compressed, measured before installation is obviously thicker.
You can use a thinner head gasket with lower compression pistons.
Look on HKS's website for the differences between "stopper" and "bead" gaskets.
Oh, and it looked like you guys were talking about not draining the oil!? Absolutely drain the oil. Once you finish the job and put the head back on you should go ahead and pour a couple quarts of extremely thin (and CHEAP) oil over the cams and allow it to run through and drain right back out to help clear out any debris; Heating the oil first should help too.
I've heard some folks talk about doing it with kerosene or acetone or similar and allow it a day or so so that the bulk can evaporate out; I can't advise you on this methodology as I haven't ever tried it.
After everything is reassembled, I recommend running the car up to normal operation temps, talking a drive around the block and then changing the oil and filter.